>>>What Are You Tying Today? Part II

[dc410]

The Orange Fish Hawk wet fly as is described in Ray Bergman's book, "TROUT". This fly made the list of essential wet flies in Bergman's book and he spoke very highly of it. I thought it would be a great fly to fish in tandem with some other wets to offer a bit of contrast with a lighter color and some flash. This one is tied on a size 12. I will probably also tie up some in size 14 to add to the wet fly box for when the sulphurs start to get active.

 

[GenCon]

Really nicely tied John. the tinsel ribbing is perfect.

GenCon

 

[dc410]

Thanks Mike. I was rooting around trying to find materials to tie one of these and I ended up using an old spool of four strand orange floss for the body. I also found one of those old Indian hen necks in a light badger buried in the bottom of one of my tubs. Both of those materials I had purchased well over 30 years ago when I was in high school and just started tying. Kind of cool to root up some old materials like that and use them to tie a fly like the Orange Fish Hawk.

 

[RCFetter]

dc410 wrote:
The Orange Fish Hawk wet fly as is described in Ray Bergman's book, "TROUT".....

That's a nice fly dc. Thanks for posting the pic.

 

[GenCon]

John, I fully expect to see you catch a fish on that fly in May. Also I agree on the old materials. I have quite a bit of old materials. It is fun to use. Brings back a lot of mesmerizes.

GenCon

 

[lv2nymph]

Nice bug Ya got there John.

 

[djs12354]

Tied a couple two-three Royal Coachman's. Alas, none survived the razor.

Will try some again later. Maybe there will be survivors!

 

[outsider]

I've been tying "semi-stimulators" with orange or bright yellow bodies for brookies. I eliminate the palmer hackle, doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[melvinp]

finger nail flys.Thanks fishy I was getting really bored.

 

[fishngun]

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[fishngun]

a couple more

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[tyeager]

Anytime I tie a stimulator 14 and smaller I skip the back hackle as well. The hair wing and front hackle floats it well enough. It use Antron for the body. Don't under estimate the lime sallies as well. I don't run into many selective brookies but occasionally the limes will out fish the yellows.

Something else that can make a stimi a little more realistic is an Antron underwing but that is probably just for my preference not the fishes.

 

[dc410]

If you have been flyfishing and tying for a number of years you probably have a container of demolished, frayed, used up old flies sitting around somewhere near your tying desk. At least I always do, and my thought process is some day I'm going to strip those old flies and make them into brand new ones. They sometimes sit there literally for years before I actually take the time to do it. Well, last night I had a rehab tying session by pulling a handful of very well worn Clouser Deep Minnows out of the container. I totally stripped off the old material with a single edge razor blade and re-sharpened the hooks. The hooks on an old Clouser generally are not in real bad shape because they ride hook point up. It takes time but it is kind of cool to create a brand new fly for the box on a old hook that had previously landed dozens of fish. The new Clousers were tied as closely as I can to the way that Mr. Clouser instructs to tie his highly effective pattern.

 

[afishinado]

The one important thing I've learned about Clouser minnows and many Clouser type flies, in general is the dumbbell should be at least a third of the shank back from the eye or even more, just forward from the midpoint. Many, if not most tyers tie the dumbbell too far forward, which causes the fly to act more like a jig. Properly tied, a clouser minnow is supposed to glide in the water like a minnow when stripped and not hopped along like a jig. Check it out in the water for yourself.

The pic below is a Clouser minnow from Bob Clouser's site:

 

[dc410]

Thanks for that tip, Afish. I do remember Mr. Clouser stressing the importance of the placement of the eyes on the shank. It definitely looks like mine are too far forward.

 

[RCFetter]

White caddis larva on a sz 12. The green ones I tied a few weeks ago were much better. I think the dubbing should be a shade or two darker and I put it on a bit too thick.

 

[geebee]

dc410 wrote:
Thanks for that tip, Afish. I do remember Mr. Clouser stressing the importance of the placement of the eyes on the shank. It definitely looks like mine are too far forward.

if you place them further forward you also get a smaller neater head - which is important for sparse patterns.

for smaller clousers with beadchain or brass eyes, i tye all wings on top of the shank rather than each side. this makes sure it fishes hook up rather than on its side etc.

cheers

Mark.

 

[GenCon]

RCFetter wrote:
White caddis larva on a sz 12. The green ones I tied a few weeks ago were much better. I think the dubbing should be a shade or two darker and I put it on a bit too thick.

I personally like it more of a cream color. I use copper wire to rib.
Dubbing may be a bit heavy. But you are adding a certain buggyness to it. Which I tend to like.

GenCon

 

[dc410]

A little brown trout Clouser tied on a size 4 hook.

 

[RCFetter]

This is a Guide's Choice Pheasant Tail from TightLine Videos which is a standard PT with Partridge hackle and a hot spot. First or second time working with partridge so it's a bit sloppy.