Rod Build Thread

Is the blank painted ? Or unsanded finish? I have in the past had to sand down some of the blank finish to get my tip top on . Seems that some makers tip top size my be off some due to the finish on the blank . I would rather sand the blank some than try and build it up for the tip top . Hope this helps .
John
It's a charcoal blank with a satin finish. The tip looked roughed up already and the tiptop wobbled on the dry fit. I'll keep trying. On another forum, I saw that an open wrap inside the tube works pretty well since the gaps allow glue between the blank and the tube. I expect that Solitario's masking tape strip suggestion will do the same.
 
Dust can be razored off with the tip of an X-Acto knife - but like others have said, it needs to be completely dried and cured.

You should be able to easily shave off bumps 24 hours after applying the first coat. More time is generally better, but at some point epoxy that is too hard will be more difficult to cut. On the other hand, epoxy at the 24 hour mark is too soft to sand.
 
If 3.5 doesn't fit then 4 is the right size. There is no in between tip size. The difference in ID is only 0.008" - it can't be too loose. Hot melt adhesive should fill the gap. I always use hot melt because you can heat up the tip and adjust it and in the worst-case scenario remove it and start over.
This is the most practical advise. Don't try to shim the tip or anything, it's not needed. Just get as much adhesive in the tip tube as you can and stick 'er on.

I prefer 5min epoxy. 5 min epoxies don't stand up well to heat and can be easily removed if needed and I've had zero problems using it. I find it easier to get positioning right and easier to clean up as alcohol will remove it when wet.
 
You should be able to easily shave off bumps 24 hours after applying the first coat. More time is generally better, but at some point epoxy that is too hard will be more difficult to cut. On the other hand, epoxy at the 24 hour mark is too soft to sand.
I shaved using a razor at 24 hrs….very happy now. Second coat coming as soon as I have 3 hrs to dedicate to this!!
 
Wanted to share some pics of a few rods I finished up in the last month , first one is a Graywolf heritage gold 8’5wt glass blank.
Used pac bay snake guides , pre formed grip and the reel seat was purchased of this forum from BradFromPotter.
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The second rod is a JP Ross beaver meadow 5’ 3wt blank this is for those small brushy creeks . I turned the slim ritz grip and cork reel seat on my lathe , single foot guides in ash color. I bet a 6” brookie will feel like a whale on this one . Thanks for looking .
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Wanted to share some pics of a few rods I finished up in the last month , first one is a Graywolf heritage gold 8’5wt glass blank.
Used pac bay snake guides , pre formed grip and the reel seat was purchased of this forum from BradFromPotter.
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The second rod is a JP Ross beaver meadow 5’ 3wt blank this is for those small brushy creeks . I turned the slim ritz grip and cork reel seat on my lathe , single foot guides in ash color. I bet a 6” brookie will feel like a whale on this one . Thanks for looking .
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Absolutely beautiful work!
 
Nice, Vtsalmon!
I like the see-through winding on gold.
 
What thread and finish gives you that invisible wrap look?
I've only done it by accident when the color preserver application was inadequate. I've read about the method to use light colored (untreated) nylon, or natural color silk, covered by thin coats of clear varnish. The finish bleeds through to the blank so it looks like the guides are held on by only the varnish.
 
Thanks for the kind words everyone. As far as thread choice for transparent wraps I used kimono silk #374 which is a natural white . I heat the varnish in a pan of warm water so it thins out some, I am not a fan of thinning varnish or epoxy with any thinners . I have found warming it thins it enough to flow great and penetrate the silk or nylon.
 
Thanks for the kind words everyone. As far as thread choice for transparent wraps I used kimono silk #374 which is a natural white . I heat the varnish in a pan of warm water so it thins out some, I am not a fan of thinning varnish or epoxy with any thinners . I have found warming it thins it enough to flow great and penetrate the silk or nylon.
Good tip heating the (can of?) varnish in water. I'll have to try it.
I have found that I go so slow that warmed epoxy gets tacky too fast. I haven't used epoxy since that last experience. Someone on here (or another forum) recommended to not pre-warm epoxy since the chemical reaction heats it enough, and bubbles can be busted with a pick or flashed off with a flame.
 
Good tip heating the (can of?) varnish in water. I'll have to try it.
I have found that I go so slow that warmed epoxy gets tacky too fast. I haven't used epoxy since that last experience. Someone on here (or another forum) recommended to not pre-warm epoxy since the chemical reaction heats it enough, and bubbles can be busted with a pick or flashed off with a flame.
Warming of epoxies can have unexpected results. Slight warming of the individual components makes them flow quicker and measuring is easier, but too warm will make them cure noticably quicker, sometimes very rapidly. That said, for wrap finishes, I usually warm the unmixed parts slightly so they are easier to get out of the bottles. Adhesive epoxies, on the other hand, are very susceptible to heat. Even just mixing too large of a quantity in a small medicine cup will lead to a runaway reaction that causes the epoxy to gel and set rapidly. This occurs even without pre-warming. It is best to mix adhesive epoxy in a puddle on a flat surface so that heat can dissipate and prevent a runaway. I've only had this happen once with finish epoxies when I pre warmed the finish too much, but any warming will cause the finish to set quicker even if there is no runaway reaction. Warming will thin the individual parts and the mixed epoxy for a time, but ultimately thickens the epoxy more and sooner.

A good alternative if you need more working time is to just mix two batches per rod. One for the bottom half of the rod and one for the tip sections. You don't need to mix using 3cc of each (6cc total) component either if you want to conserve finish. I've mixed using as little as 1cc of each with perfect results. That's true of every brand of rod finish I've used. Careful measuring with syringes is all that is needed. With that said I typically use 1.5cc of each part (3cc total)and that is enough for one coat of light build finish on a typical 9ft rod.

The other option is to use a solvent, but this is not novice territory IMO. It's something you definitely need to experiment with and test thoroughly.
 
Warming of epoxies can have unexpected results. Slight warming of the individual components makes them flow quicker and measuring is easier, but too warm will make them cure noticably quicker, sometimes very rapidly. That said, for wrap finishes, I usually warm the unmixed parts slightly so they are easier to get out of the bottles. Adhesive epoxies, on the other hand, are very susceptible to heat. Even just mixing too large of a quantity in a small medicine cup will lead to a runaway reaction that causes the epoxy to gel and set rapidly. This occurs even without pre-warming. It is best to mix adhesive epoxy in a puddle on a flat surface so that heat can dissipate and prevent a runaway. I've only had this happen once with finish epoxies when I pre warmed the finish too much, but any warming will cause the finish to set quicker even if there is no runaway reaction. Warming will thin the individual parts and the mixed epoxy for a time, but ultimately thickens the epoxy more and sooner.

A good alternative if you need more working time is to just mix two batches per rod. One for the bottom half of the rod and one for the tip sections. You don't need to mix using 3cc of each (6cc total) component either if you want to conserve finish. I've mixed using as little as 1cc of each with perfect results. That's true of every brand of rod finish I've used. Careful measuring with syringes is all that is needed. With that said I typically use 1.5cc of each part (3cc total)and that is enough for one coat of light build finish on a typical 9ft rod.

The other option is to use a solvent, but this is not novice territory IMO. It's something you definitely need to experiment with and test thoroughly.
Thanks, PennKev.
Instructions for Flex Coat are really bossy so I've only tried what that say. I like the idea of a one-coat finishing method, even though it's counter-intuitive to "you can't make each coat thin enough" for varnish.
I also like that epoxy doesn't require color preserver. The instructions even say to NOT use CP since it will block the finish out of the thread.
I'll give your hints a try on my next attempt with epoxy finish.
Regards.
 
@Vtsalmon : really nice work with the clear wraps on the first set of build pix. Curious if you used nylon or silk and if thinned your epoxy.

You'll have to tell me what you think of that Beaver Meadow. I build out the 663 S-Glass Beaver Meadow blank and I like it very much.

EDIT: I take it back. I see your answers to my questions above.
 
@jeffroey I will keep you posted on how I like the 5’ beaver meadow carbon. I too have the beaver meadow 6’6” 3wt s-glass I built a few years I really like it it is an amazing little rod .
 
Finally finished my first rod!
I learned quite a bit from all of your comments, so I thank you!

Proof Luna 8’ 5wt 3pc fiberglass kit. Atlas up locking reel seat, black burl seat, dark snake guides and Fuji black thread.

Nothing fancy, but I’m proud of how it came out. I hope to lawn cast it tomorrow.IMG 4596IMG 4598
 
@JimNovo

Looks amazing and very very fishable. Remind me: were you building it for yourself or for someone else? If it's for you, catching your first trout on a rod you built yourself is up there close to your first trout.

Nicely done JimNovo!
 
@JimNovo

Looks amazing and very very fishable. Remind me: were you building it for yourself or for someone else? If it's for you, catching your first trout on a rod you built yourself is up there close to your first trout.

Nicely done JimNovo!
This one is for me.
I put “building my own fly rod” on my retirement bucket list.
Im very excited to go fish it and catch a fish on my own rod and on my own fly.
 
@JimNovo congratulations on your first build, you should definitely be proud of that rod it looks amazing. Can’t wait to see your next build . The finish work looks great . What epoxy did you use ?
 
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