JimNovo
Well-known member
Yes I did. The dots are a drop of my wife’s nail polish. I copied the technique from tying perdigons. 🤫
JimNovo
Well-known member
bigjohn358
Well-known member
Only thing I would have done different or suggest on your next build is your ferrule wraps you want them as close to the end as possible. This will help protect them more from cracking. I usually wrap them around where you did to start and after a few wraps I use my packing tool to push them towards the end then continue wrapping. Every rod you build from here on out will get better and better and thats way better than my first rod!
PennKev
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,299
Looks very good. The finish work is far above average.
JimNovo
Well-known member
The ferrules actually have a metal ferrule ring on them which is why it looks like a gap. But great tip!
bigjohn358
Well-known member
I was wondering...I looked close and even blew up the photo.
jeffroey
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2019
- Messages
- 297
I didn't realize Proof was carrying Gen4 epoxy. Good to know. I haven't used it yet but I actually expect FedEx to deliver a set today I ordered from HFF Custom Rods. I intend to use it on the build I currently have on my bench - an Epic Packlight 476-5.
I haven't used Gen4 yet but following the forums, everybody who does loves the stuff. Claims it's easy to work with and really minimizes bubble issues which for me is my rod finish nemessis.
I'm drinking the Gen4 punch and I'm going to give it a try.Just a note @bigjohn358: I don't necessarily disagree with you (and I realize Jim is using metal ferrule rings which Proof makes easy to size) but for spigoted ferrules, there are a few schools of thought regarding how close to wrap the female. Because the ferrule will wear over time and the gap will close, builders will usually take one of three approaches:
(1) Wrap close to the end like you suggest and forget about it - address a closed gap down the line with ferrule wax or even building up the male with thin coats of epoxy or Perma-Gloss, or something else.
(2) Leave a space between the end of the female and your wrap - maybe 1/16"-3/32" max so when the gap closes, you can add space by sanding back or trimming the female without impacting the wrap.
(3) Leave space like (2) above and fill it with a separate trim band that can be easily removed/unwound to reveal the female end that can then be sanded/trimmed to open the gap without impacting the main ferrule wrap. This one is really only practical with a spar wrap finish; not epoxy.
Just a few options that fall into builder preference. I usually opt into (2) when I'm dealing with spigots.
JimNovo
Well-known member
Took the new rod out and I couldn’t be happier on how it casts a dry. Haven’t fished fiberglass before but it wasn’t hard to get the feel of it.
Oh….it works!
Thanks everyone for your advice.
Got the blank for build #2 today. A rod for my brother in law up in Maine.
Oh….it works!
Thanks everyone for your advice.
Got the blank for build #2 today. A rod for my brother in law up in Maine.
JimNovo
Well-known member
The next build is a 6’ 2wt 3pc fiberglass that my brother in law requested to go bushwhacking small ponds in Maine. I bought a honey yellow blank from GB Fly Shop and components from Proof. Gonna go with a down locking reel seat, single foot guides and chestnut colored thread. Trying to reproduce the look of an LL Bean Pocket Water Glass rod (continuing the Maine theme).
Maybe for rod #3 I’ll upgrade to a higher quality blank and try some more complex wraps. But for now, I’m still learning…
PennKev
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,299
I've had mixed results with GBFS's blanks. I have a 7' 6" 4wt glass blank that, while seeming to have a nice action, was a complete corkscrew. On the other hand I have a 10' 2wt euro rod built on their blank that is superb considering the price.
6xAdams(Jones)
Well-known member
I made an 8-wt using single-foot flyrod guides, which are okay. I felt I needed to put some locking wraps on them "just in case." If you use single-foot guides, I recommend the ones from Fuji (or similar). I've used Fuji guides on the other rods I've built since my father-in-law recommended them. The feet have irregular sides (not straight) so the wraps at least appear to hold onto the very minor protrusions without allowing the guides to pull out. The wraps are very tight but still adjustable to align everything. After finishing with varnish or epoxy, I haven't been able to budge any of them.
M
moon1284
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2010
- Messages
- 1,571
Put the thread spool into a coffee cup. Get a thick phone book. Run the thread out of the cup, through the phone book to the blank. If you want more tension our something heavy on top of the phone book.
tomgamber
Well-known member
i built something similar to this and just ran a fly tying bobbin through one of the screw eyes in the base.
czechmate18
Member
Those tensioners are from sewing machines. Check amazon, you can get a multi pack for under 10 bucks for a "Thread Tension Assembly".
6xAdams(Jones)
Well-known member
If you have a good tensioner (even if only the coffee-mug/stack-of-books arrangement) the cradles aren't an absolute necessity. I didn't use cradles for the first build and things worked out fine. It's a good way to use up some scrap 1-inch lumber, though.
tomgamber
Well-known member
My first cradle was a cardboard box with a V cut in opposite sides. Not sure how you turn it without a cradle holding it still but ok
JimNovo
Well-known member
Rod build #2 now under construction!
6xAdams(Jones)
Well-known member
I was able to turn it, without cradles but I quickly ran out of fingers/hands to pack wraps, hold the wraps taught, find my pulling loop, etc. The first was the only one I built this way - a cradle (with a velcro strap) was used on each one since. I was being taught by someone who never used cradles.
