falcon
Well-known member
That is the F model with the tip that collapses.
recommendations for beginner
- Thread starter nOObmaster
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Silent Ocelot
Well-known member
I think the F model is nice up to and including the 4wt 8'6" model, which I think is pretty stellar, although mine recently got traded for a more powerful 6wt from a brand I much prefer to Orvis.
Those higher line weight F models just don't have the juice to do what I need them to. I don't even understand what the 9ft 6wt F model was designed to do. It's **** poor in every way.
Those higher line weight F models just don't have the juice to do what I need them to. I don't even understand what the 9ft 6wt F model was designed to do. It's **** poor in every way.
nOObmaster
Active member
Finally got out today. first time fly fishing. water was pretty rough on delaware, spent about 5 hours casting. tried different things. caught a bunch of sunnies with nymph. i did use strike indicator when i was fishing with nymph, cause the hook was getting caught on the damn rocks and i was loosing them.
moodyblues
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Nice outfit and fish, but I'd see a dermatologist about that skin condition on your face. Or is that some sort of new high tech camo?
sixfootfenwick
Well-known member
Good for you!
moodyblues
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I've always said that if you could develop some sort of futuristic camo that would effectively project your background to the front of you, and no IR signature, you could own the world. One of these days we'll probably find out that DARPA has developed something like it, if they haven't already.
sixfootfenwick
Well-known member
Actually they kind of do have that.
I think it was Space X.
Using Led lights they have made a suit that you can't see the person standing up against a wall.
nOObmaster
Active member
Went out today morning. caught my first smallie. with a shoulder surgery coming up in a few months, i will practice as much as I can. i can see myself spin fishing less and less.
Silent Ocelot
Well-known member
That's one of the aspects I like with indicator style. The indicator can provide lift to the flies and ensure they don't get caught up in the rocks. This helps sometimes, mostly it works against you. I do need to work on tight-lining as I am not proficient with it. Just a good skill to have and there are certainly circumstances where I would like to implement such a tactic. I just have a hard time working a tight-line rig and enjoy casting out my indicator rig and watching the strike indicator go downstream, anticipating the strike. I like casting and managing line and I also like how easy the indicator is to spot.
Funny enough, and you'll learn I'm a rod snob on the forum, I recently acquired a Clearwater (3wt 7'6" model, current gen like yours). Took it out for some lawn casting yesterday and I found it a pleasurable rod to cast. I will now be added another current Clearwater (6wt 9'6" model) as loaner incase my roommate who is not that much into fly fishing wishes to join me for fall steelheading. I will compare this model against 2 rods in the same configuration. That Clearwater 9ft 6 inch 6wt will have some STEEP competition. What model did you get? I will however choose to accommodate this new rod with one of the reels from a brand I really like, can't go the Orvis route on reels. I usually stray from using the same brand for both rod and reel, looks too department store-like to me.
Also, redbreasts are fun cool-looking and hard fighting fish. I enjoy popping them off on local creeks/rivers where they are present. In the Schuylkill redbreasts seem to be the dominant species.
Silent Ocelot
Well-known member
(Darth Sidious voice): "goooooodddd"
nOObmaster
Active member
Orvis Clearwater 6wt, 9'
I use this strike indicator. they are so lightweight, being foam material, and stay in place with the scew function.
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Silent Ocelot
Well-known member
That 9ft 6wt should be a good all-rounder for you for larger bodies of water. (Obviously) it will be a bit clunkier on smaller water. I'm getting the Clearwater 9'6" today to add for "testing". On a 9ft 6 inch 6wt kick now (preparing for my upcoming fall steelhead trip).
As for those Oros indicators, I do like them but I find them to be a bit heavy with a tendency to really splash hard. Interesting enough, because they are a bit denser than other indicators they are not as wind resistant as other indicators, so they cast pretty good. The screw down halves are cool as you can center the indicator on your leader. This can aid in avoiding tangles but I am proficient enough with indi style to avoid tangles in general. I will say these indicators aren't made for smaller diameter leaders and I've had some of them lock up on me and they can be hard to twist with wet hands in rain (I have poor finger strength).
I have switched over to the Orvis "Corqs style indicators, with a preference for the 5/8" and 1/2" sizes. I even like the 1 inch and 3/8, and will use them on occasion, but the 5/8 and 1/2 are the ones I typically use for visibility and floating capability. I use the neon colored ones and they are very easy to spot. I have found that these indicators float the best for me (they seem super buoyant) and they land a little more delicately than the Oros.
I won't tell ya what indicators to use, if you like the Oros then stick with them, but these are what I've come to like in 6 years of experimenting with indicators, always trying to find that perfect one.
As for those Oros indicators, I do like them but I find them to be a bit heavy with a tendency to really splash hard. Interesting enough, because they are a bit denser than other indicators they are not as wind resistant as other indicators, so they cast pretty good. The screw down halves are cool as you can center the indicator on your leader. This can aid in avoiding tangles but I am proficient enough with indi style to avoid tangles in general. I will say these indicators aren't made for smaller diameter leaders and I've had some of them lock up on me and they can be hard to twist with wet hands in rain (I have poor finger strength).
I have switched over to the Orvis "Corqs style indicators, with a preference for the 5/8" and 1/2" sizes. I even like the 1 inch and 3/8, and will use them on occasion, but the 5/8 and 1/2 are the ones I typically use for visibility and floating capability. I use the neon colored ones and they are very easy to spot. I have found that these indicators float the best for me (they seem super buoyant) and they land a little more delicately than the Oros.
I won't tell ya what indicators to use, if you like the Oros then stick with them, but these are what I've come to like in 6 years of experimenting with indicators, always trying to find that perfect one.
nOObmaster
Active member
after casting several more times, i did notice the splash and not liking it, or may be i should get better at casting, i am not sure.
i am going to give the new zealand wool strike indicator a shot and see if it is any better.
Bamboozle
Well-known member
Unless you are trying to suspend a nymph at a certain depth and due to the size of the nymph and/or because it's weighted you need a large(r) indicator...
...use the smallest size you can.
The only hard indicators I use are the Lightning Strike footballs and I use the smallest size almost exclusively. It will still splash but not as much as a larger hard indicator.
Even if they get pulled under a few inches, as long as I can see them they are doing their job.
In regards to yarn, it works great but it will add an element of wind resistance so again, use a smaller rather than larger piece.
...use the smallest size you can.
The only hard indicators I use are the Lightning Strike footballs and I use the smallest size almost exclusively. It will still splash but not as much as a larger hard indicator.
Even if they get pulled under a few inches, as long as I can see them they are doing their job.
In regards to yarn, it works great but it will add an element of wind resistance so again, use a smaller rather than larger piece.
TimMurphy
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- Sep 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,055
Dear noob,
If you do use yarn adding some fly flotant to it can really help. Depending on the yarn you use and how much you use not only can it add wind resistance it can also add weight if it gets soggy. Dressing it with fly flotant will help that.
Regards,
Tim Murphy 🙂
nOObmaster
Active member
yup, just added loon fly dip in amazon cart.
i have way too many hobbies, guess some of my other weird hobbies stuff are going on a yard sale 😂
TimMurphy
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- Sep 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,055
Dear noob,
What'fer other hobbies to you have? Be careful what you get rid of because you may have some things from other hobbies that can be used fly fishing.
If you have a wife or anyone in the family that does arts and crafts stuff you may find yourself raiding their stash if you get into fly tying. Lots of good stuff there that is usable.
Have fun!
Regards,
Tim Murphy 🙂
Bamboozle
Well-known member
nOObmaster:
I use plain Glo Bugs Yarn for my yarn indicators and I PRE-treat lengths of it with Camp Dry Water Repellent.
Just cut off a 12" or so length of Glo Bugs Yarn, put it inside of a small cup and spray some Camp Dry to soak it and squeeze the wet yarn between your fingers so gets completely saturated. Take it out and hang it somewhere for 24 hours to dry.
I usually pre-treat a bunch of pieces in advance and once they are dry, I store them in a Ziploc bag with my spare gear. The colors I like are chartreuse, orange & black, yes black for times when the angle of the sun makes it hard to see colors but not contrast.
The pieces that I take with me when fishing can be stored in an empty plastic container with a snap lid or an empty "fillum" container...
BTW - If you didn't read Tim's post, "fillum" is film and so a fillum container is just an empty 35mm film container. 😉
I like store my treated sections of yarn in the compartments of a small 6 compartment Myran Box. That small box has enough room for some strike putty and soft lead so in one place I have a lot of stuff I need when fishing nymphs.
Regardless of what you use, drill a small hole (about 3/8") in the top or bottom, pull the end of the yarn through the hole and you have a dispenser just like this:
Sometimes during the course of a day's fishing I may have to dry off the yarn using the same technique I use to dry a soaked fly (Amadou & superfine silica gel crystals) but I never have to re-treat it with floatant. I also save the little pieces of yarn I use one day and re-use them on another.
In other words, the Camp Dry stuff works pretty good.
Have fun!!
I use plain Glo Bugs Yarn for my yarn indicators and I PRE-treat lengths of it with Camp Dry Water Repellent.
Just cut off a 12" or so length of Glo Bugs Yarn, put it inside of a small cup and spray some Camp Dry to soak it and squeeze the wet yarn between your fingers so gets completely saturated. Take it out and hang it somewhere for 24 hours to dry.
I usually pre-treat a bunch of pieces in advance and once they are dry, I store them in a Ziploc bag with my spare gear. The colors I like are chartreuse, orange & black, yes black for times when the angle of the sun makes it hard to see colors but not contrast.
The pieces that I take with me when fishing can be stored in an empty plastic container with a snap lid or an empty "fillum" container...
BTW - If you didn't read Tim's post, "fillum" is film and so a fillum container is just an empty 35mm film container. 😉
I like store my treated sections of yarn in the compartments of a small 6 compartment Myran Box. That small box has enough room for some strike putty and soft lead so in one place I have a lot of stuff I need when fishing nymphs.
Regardless of what you use, drill a small hole (about 3/8") in the top or bottom, pull the end of the yarn through the hole and you have a dispenser just like this:
Sometimes during the course of a day's fishing I may have to dry off the yarn using the same technique I use to dry a soaked fly (Amadou & superfine silica gel crystals) but I never have to re-treat it with floatant. I also save the little pieces of yarn I use one day and re-use them on another.
In other words, the Camp Dry stuff works pretty good.
Have fun!!
