Orvis black out Euro

E

Ed007

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I am considering buying a new rod that would mainly be used for Euro nymphing. I am looking at the Orvis Blackout 11' 3wt. I wanted to know if anyone out there has fished one and what their thoughts on it were. I am also considering a T&T contact 2 3wt but I am partial to Orvis so was looking for opinions. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!!

Ed
 
I got to try my friend’s Orvis Blackout back in the spring. I’d steer you toward the Hardy rod mentioned above, or to the Thomas and Thomas Contact 2 10’9” 3 weight. I thought the Orvis was a little clunky.
 
Not to be ignorant but I am. It's not like you need some crazy high performance caster as a majority of what you are doing is lobbing or reaching, correct?

Greys GR80 streamflex 11' 3wt is $200 on closeout. Reviews give it a low swing weight. The GR80 streamflex plus model has a 6" extension. Just throwing that out there. Use the savings to buy other goodies.

I've also read/watched good reviews on the Hardy ultralight series.
 
Seems like in general people are against the orvis blackout. I that mainly because they haven't used one or that they have and didn't like it?
I’ve fished with one that my buddy bought and then promptly sold. It was like a wet noodle and the fit and finish looked more like a 99$ Cabelas special than a 1000$ rod. Add in the absolutely infuriating and mind boggling lack of a hook keeper and you’ve got yourself a real turd.
 
If you're just getting into "Euro Nymphing" I would suggest staying away from high end rods until you are sure that's the style fishing you enjoy. The Syndicate and Moonshine rods would be a better "starting rod" in my opinion. They are both reasonably priced and well made. Syndicate 10' 3wt. would be the best choice IMO.
 
Hello Ed. If you're looking for a good nymphing stick, I wouldn't go for that Orvis rod. I've been fishing the Hardy UL-LL 10ft8in 0-2 wt for contact nymphing and it is one helluva stick.

https://www.tacticalflyfisher.com/hardy-ultralite-ll-fly-rod/
I second the recommendation on the Hardy UL. I have the 10'2" model and it's fantastic. I've fished that rod this year more than any other rod I own, fishing it for a week straight at one point. I've put over 50 trout on it. I primarily fish light indicator rigs with it but have tight-lined maybe 3 times on it. It does chuck a light indi rig quite well. I even put a popper on it and fished a pond. Quite a versatile rod, more so than my SAGE ESN HD 3100, though I do prefer the ESN for tight-lining specifically. I chose the 10'2" as I thought the 10'8" would be too much rod for me and I am happy with my purchase. I will say there is certainly an advantage to add on 6 inches and I think that is the route you should go. The color on the UL LL is a nice bronze color that looks even better when viewed through some Costa 580G lenses. The transition from blank to the glossy carbon fiber inlay is gorgeous, so much so that I had to get one of the UL LL's without the fighting butt to get the bronze cap on the back (yes, I am that much of a stickler for cosmetics). I now have there Hardy rods, all bought this year, if that serves as an indication as to how much I love these rods. Not sure what @Facemelted has chosen to put on his rod but I have a Bronze SAGE Trout reel on mine. Another good reel option would be an old SAGE 508 or 508. Those SAGE reels will cost you a bit if you can find one, but I know where some can be had. I know most tight-lining junkies prefer reels with some weight but these rods are so light you won't need much weight in the back to avoid arm fatigue. I ran an Abel TR 2/3 on mine for awhile and it didn't find it to make the rod feel tip heavy.
 
Seems like in general people are against the orvis blackout. I that mainly because they haven't used one or that they have and didn't like it?
I wouldn't say that I am against it in general. I handled on at my local Orvis (D-town) and found it to be quite suitable, like it felt to me like it could perform tight-line duties really well. I have not fished this rod nor have I lawn casted it because what is the point of lawn casting a rod that won't be equipped with line to cast anyway?

I did own the H3F 10'6" 3wt that has now been traded for the H3D 9ft. 8wt. I didn't care for the H3F 10'6" 3wt. Felt that my Hardy UL LL 10'2" did everything it could but better and that the H3 didn't have more fish fighting power nor did the extra length of it being 4 inches longer help extend my drifts and overall line control. It did rollcast really nicely and was a good rod for the Little Lehigh. After fishing it three times, ok more like 2, because one of the times I was just messing around with it on a pond, I found I didn't care for it. I think it has to do with the fact that I think the H3 blanks are just more so designed to be good casting rods with great tip recovery, which isn't the best kind of blank personality one wants in a nymphing-specific rod. To be honest, I own 5 H3's and they are overall starting to lose favor with me. I have a 6wt 9ft that feels underpowered and I think my 5wt and 7wt D models seem to lack reserve power (hopefully bumping up the 8wt will alleviate this). The only H3 I really liked was my 4wt 8'6" that has since been traded to a friend. Not trying to start an Orvis hate thread nor do I want to seem like I am hopping onto the Orvis hate wagon on this thread, just my observations and it appears like people have similar opinions on it.
 
I’ve fished with one that my buddy bought and then promptly sold. It was like a wet noodle and the fit and finish looked more like a 99$ Cabelas special than a 1000$ rod. Add in the absolutely infuriating and mind boggling lack of a hook keeper and you’ve got yourself a real turd.
Agree with everything besides the hook keeper. Just jam the hook into the cork or wrap it around the back end of the reel foot and put the hook in in one of the guide supports (obviously not in the eye lit itself because you don't want to scratch that). Most nymph anglers transport their rigs in that fashion anyways. Hook keepers are sort of irrelevant IMHO, like it won't convince me to buy or not buy a particular rod. I think it's a weird spot to put a hook anyways and some people that ride high on the grip end up finding a hook keeper to be a nuisance. There are many other more important factors I am looking into when purchasing a new rod.
 
If you're just getting into "Euro Nymphing" I would suggest staying away from high end rods until you are sure that's the style fishing you enjoy. The Syndicate and Moonshine rods would be a better "starting rod" in my opinion. They are both reasonably priced and well made. Syndicate 10' 3wt. would be the best choice IMO.
Syndicate yes, Moonshine no.
 
Had a first generation 10' 3 wt Greys Streamflex and loved it. Was experimenting with euronymphing since late 90's built a bunch of rods from oddball blanks, even crappie rod blanks. All did OK, but were heavy or had weird actions. The Streamflex was the first decent long rod I had and it fished well. It was also versatile and fished dries and wets well.

Got a 10' 6" 3 wt Moonshine Epiphany this year. A little more sensitive for nymphing IMHO, but poor for other uses.

My buddies use the Cortland Competition rods and like them.
 
Not to be ignorant but I am. It's not like you need some crazy high performance caster as a majority of what you are doing is lobbing or reaching, correct?

Greys GR80 streamflex 11' 3wt is $200 on closeout. Reviews give it a low swing weight. The GR80 streamflex plus model has a 6" extension. Just throwing that out there. Use the savings to buy other goodies.

I've also read/watched good reviews on the Hardy ultralight series.
I think euronymphing is a legitimate style. I use a lot of the tactics myself (people have for years before the new craze started).

But man has it gotten shoved down the flyfishing communities throats in a marketing blitzkrieg that just won't end. And from a business standpoint I get it. But yeah, a 1000 rod to high stick weighted nymphs? Come on.....
 
I cannot answer your question as I have never fished the particular rod you are asking about, but I do want to respond to some of the other posters comments about quality.....I hold orvis in very high regard for quality, especially their rods. I have several rods of theirs, including newer Clearwater and Recon rods and think they are very well made. I would be shocked if the rod in question would be any different.
 
I think euronymphing is a legitimate style. I use a lot of the tactics myself (people have for years before the new craze started).

But man has it gotten shoved down the flyfishing communities throats in a marketing blitzkrieg that just won't end. And from a business standpoint I get it. But yeah, a 1000 rod to high stick weighted nymphs? Come on.....
Hardy UL is only $895.

Also OP asked for a an opinion on a $1,000 rod, so it makes sense that he would get recommendations on rods at a similar price point. If the man wants a Porsche let him buy a Porsche.
 
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I would also like to recommend to the new SAGE ESN HD. I have the 3wt 10ft version and have found it to be the most sensitive of the three long rods that I have owned (Hardy UL LL 10'2" 2wt, Orvis H3F 10'6" 3wt, SAGE ESN HD 3wt 10ft). I love it's slow and "heavy" feel that I like in a tight-line rod. I only fished it once and was unable to pin a fish on it (I was fishing the Little Lehigh), but the overall fishing experience was pleasant and I knew it was the tight-line rod for me. There's an excellent reel pairing for it too, the Redington Tilt in the "garnet finish". The ESN HD is a pretty rod with black blank and maroon wraps. I'll be taking mine for steelhead and Penns next year. They offer it in longer models too.
 
There’s a lot of comments amounting to “you don’t need a 1000$ rod to nymph” and I have to say I think they’re misguided. There’s absolutely a performance difference between the more budget friendly offerings and the high modulus high performance graphite sticks like the T&T contact II, the Hardy, the Sage ESN, and the H3. The casting (yes casting, not lobbing as serious nymph fisherman do very little lobbing) and accuracy are much better, not to mention the very specific tapers that allow for a 2-3wt suppleness to protect the tippet while giving you the backbone of a 4-5wt to fight a 24+ inch wild fish when it decides to take a run.

I already expressed my preference for the 10’ 3 wt T&T as I think it makes a great nymph stick on small and big water alike. When paired with a mono rig or shorty on a normal 3wt WF fly line, it also allows for a quick change to throw dries (which it casts beautifully) or small streamers without the hassle of carrying an extra rod. As someone else said, there’s not much value in suggesting someone who wants to drop 1000$ on a top of the line stick should take a look at a moonshine rod, because frankly they ain’t even in the same zip code (not that you can’t fish effectively with both, but the higher end offering will outperform the budget model every day of the year). Then there’s the matter of the lifetime warranty if you break it- and those 2 and 3 wts sure are delicate. I sure wouldn’t want to drop hundreds of dollars on a rod that breaks on a big fish or a tree branch and I’m just SOL.
 
There’s a lot of comments amounting to “you don’t need a 1000$ rod to nymph” and I have to say I think they’re misguided. There’s absolutely a performance difference between the more budget friendly offerings and the high modulus high performance graphite sticks like the T&T contact II, the Hardy, the Sage ESN, and the H3. The casting (yes casting, not lobbing as serious nymph fisherman do very little lobbing) and accuracy are much better, not to mention the very specific tapers that allow for a 2-3wt suppleness to protect the tippet while giving you the backbone of a 4-5wt to fight a 24+ inch wild fish when it decides to take a run.

I already expressed my preference for the 10’ 3 wt T&T as I think it makes a great nymph stick on small and big water alike. When paired with a mono rig or shorty on a normal 3wt WF fly line, it also allows for a quick change to throw dries (which it casts beautifully) or small streamers without the hassle of carrying an extra rod. As someone else said, there’s not much value in suggesting someone who wants to drop 1000$ on a top of the line stick should take a look at a moonshine rod, because frankly they ain’t even in the same zip code (not that you can’t fish effectively with both, but the higher end offering will outperform the budget model every day of the year). Then there’s the matter of the lifetime warranty if you break it- and those 2 and 3 wts sure are delicate. I sure wouldn’t want to drop hundreds of dollars on a rod that breaks on a big fish or a tree branch and I’m just SOL.
Couldn't agree with your sentiments more! Like I said, if the man wants a Porsche let him get the Porsche. I for one understand the dramatic difference between low and high end gear.
 
Hardy UL is only $895.

Also OP asked for a an opinion on a $1,000 rod, so it makes sense that he would get recommendations on rods at a similar price point. If the man wants a Porsche let him buy a Porsche.
I agree that folks should buy what they want. I was really just replying to krayfishs post, not so much to the OP. Probably not the place.
 
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