MKern
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I have had the same nymph leader for 5 years now. Just add 3, 4, and 5x when needed.
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troutslammer
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my thoughts exactly mckern , if a trout snaps my 25lb chameleon i am giving up ..lol
albatross
Well-known member
Welcome aboard Ryan. There are a few of us in the Greensburg area. The Gander Store has a pretty good Fly section. Keep posting and asking questions. Hopefully the weather will break soon and we can do some fishing.
Chaz
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The knot with the most strength for connecting 2 peices of leader together is a surgeons not, it's very easy to tie.
As for retrieve of line when a fish is on, I want all big trout on the reel, I'd say that is anything larger than 13 inches, but that's just a rough guestimate. there are no hard fast rules for this. It's just your preference.
I live in the eastern half ofthe state, so I'd be no help to you when you go out fishing.
For small streams you'll want a shorter rod, I use a 7'6" rod most of the time. Hope this helps.
As for retrieve of line when a fish is on, I want all big trout on the reel, I'd say that is anything larger than 13 inches, but that's just a rough guestimate. there are no hard fast rules for this. It's just your preference.
I live in the eastern half ofthe state, so I'd be no help to you when you go out fishing.
For small streams you'll want a shorter rod, I use a 7'6" rod most of the time. Hope this helps.
jdaddy
Active member
I like putting them on the reel. No real reason not to imo.
Surgeons knot.
Rio Powerflex unless you have Orvis and $25 off $50 coupons then Orvis SS is right there. 9' 5x leader. Remember the last 2' of leader already has the tippet built in. After you loose a foot or two due to changing flies and wind knots, start adding a few feet of 5x tippet.
Surgeons knot.
Rio Powerflex unless you have Orvis and $25 off $50 coupons then Orvis SS is right there. 9' 5x leader. Remember the last 2' of leader already has the tippet built in. After you loose a foot or two due to changing flies and wind knots, start adding a few feet of 5x tippet.
Acristickid
Well-known member
As far as tippet- make sure it is wet when you pull your knots tight or you'll get curly q's in line.
Flouro line for me is easier to work with for knots but it is a little more expensive, if a few extra couple bucks does'nt break you that's the way I would go especially for subsurface nymph fishing-which basically is what you'll be doing until April.
You can but the bigger and cheaper spools of line once you get a feel for it if you like.
Flouro line for me is easier to work with for knots but it is a little more expensive, if a few extra couple bucks does'nt break you that's the way I would go especially for subsurface nymph fishing-which basically is what you'll be doing until April.
You can but the bigger and cheaper spools of line once you get a feel for it if you like.
gulfgreyhound
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Welcome aboard Ryan.Good advice from the board members.
just have fun .GG
just have fun .GG
pcray1231
Well-known member
Fluoro is good stuff, doesn't degrade with time, and better knot strength.
But, it's denser and doesn't float. It's also a bit stiffer than a good copolymer (most supposedly "mono" tippets are actually copolymers). So, overall, for dry fly fishing you'll get a fair bit more drag.
But, it's denser and doesn't float. It's also a bit stiffer than a good copolymer (most supposedly "mono" tippets are actually copolymers). So, overall, for dry fly fishing you'll get a fair bit more drag.
B
bam
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If they're a decent sized fish, I like to put them on the reel... for no other reason than it justifies my purchase of a $200 four weight reel
ryanpgh
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- Dec 22, 2010
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haha.. i tell you what guys.. i'm practicing these blood knots. it sure would be nice if fishing line was as thick and limp as the shoelaces with which these videos show you how to do it. lol arrggggghhh! patience patience..
pcray1231
Well-known member
yeah, its tough learning. I bring the tag end of one side through before twisting the other side, seems to keep a better gap that way, but it can be tricky to hold the first tag end while twisting.
Keep at it...
Keep at it...
ryanpgh
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haha.. you read my mind pcray. Holding that tag end is tough. Sometimes i feel like i don't know where to put my fingers, but i'm starting to get it. I've done 3 correct ones in a row and i timed my 3rd one to just over 4 minutes so i'm making some progress. Maybe thats aweful. If it is, don't tell me. hahaha.
I've also tied a few of the triple surgeon's knots. It seems bulky to me.. as if it causes a crease in the line instead of a nice even flow like the blood knot. maybe i'm screwing something up, but i seem to prefer the blood knot so far.
I've also tied a few of the triple surgeon's knots. It seems bulky to me.. as if it causes a crease in the line instead of a nice even flow like the blood knot. maybe i'm screwing something up, but i seem to prefer the blood knot so far.
Acristickid
Well-known member
Yes, I remember those days. This might help.
I made a tool that helps tie blood knots at home from stuff I found in the garage.
Simply get a 2x4 or similar piece of wood maybe a foot long.
Hammer in 3 nails a few inches apart. (Don't hammer the middle nail in all the way- as you will use this nail to create the loops for the knot and needs to be able to be removed from from the wood.) You can use chip clips or as the say in office lingo "ECCO" fasteners to hold the line in place as you are running the line through the loops.
Copied this from the Frog Hair Blood Knot Tool design. Just google it as that will probably be easier to understand than my lack luster description.
I made a tool that helps tie blood knots at home from stuff I found in the garage.
Simply get a 2x4 or similar piece of wood maybe a foot long.
Hammer in 3 nails a few inches apart. (Don't hammer the middle nail in all the way- as you will use this nail to create the loops for the knot and needs to be able to be removed from from the wood.) You can use chip clips or as the say in office lingo "ECCO" fasteners to hold the line in place as you are running the line through the loops.
Copied this from the Frog Hair Blood Knot Tool design. Just google it as that will probably be easier to understand than my lack luster description.
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bam
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Good if you're tying your own leaders, but Ryan should know how for streamside applications without the use of a jig. I find the triple surgeons quick and not too bulky myself. Leaders, blood knot... tippet to leader, triple surgeons.
Another option is a tippet ring. They're tiny rings to tie to the end of your leader and reattaching tippet will never shorten the leader. Quick, easy and great for a beginner.... or myself who likes simplicity while on the stream.
Another option is a tippet ring. They're tiny rings to tie to the end of your leader and reattaching tippet will never shorten the leader. Quick, easy and great for a beginner.... or myself who likes simplicity while on the stream.
pcray1231
Well-known member
The tippet ring would be a shortcut. But he should learn the blood knot, there are situations where I don't like the tippet ring.
Ryan, a tippet ring is similar in many respects in usage to a barrel swivel, but just the ring, no swivel. Fine for nymphing, but I find they don't float as well as I'd like them to.
Don't forget, you can use the mouth. I use my teeth to grab tag ends and to hold it till my fingers can get where I want them.
Ryan, a tippet ring is similar in many respects in usage to a barrel swivel, but just the ring, no swivel. Fine for nymphing, but I find they don't float as well as I'd like them to.
Don't forget, you can use the mouth. I use my teeth to grab tag ends and to hold it till my fingers can get where I want them.
ryanpgh
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I looked into these tippit rings. They seem like a great idea for nymph fishing because i assume you get more snags and break off more tippit while nymph fishing anyway. seems like an easy way to combat constant blood knot tying while onstream. This brings me to a couple questions about nymph fishing...
1.) Does anyone know where you can get the old split shots which are just circular (not the ones with the little handle clasps for removal)? I find the ones with the handle clasps create so many snags and line foulings.
2.) Speaking of split shots.. has anyone noticed all the new split shot are a shiny steel chrome? Seems like that could spook the trout.
3.) Strike indicaters. What am I looking for when using one? Does it submerge like a bobber when I have a strike like a spinning rod?
1.) Does anyone know where you can get the old split shots which are just circular (not the ones with the little handle clasps for removal)? I find the ones with the handle clasps create so many snags and line foulings.
2.) Speaking of split shots.. has anyone noticed all the new split shot are a shiny steel chrome? Seems like that could spook the trout.
3.) Strike indicaters. What am I looking for when using one? Does it submerge like a bobber when I have a strike like a spinning rod?
pcray1231
Well-known member
1. Any fly fishing shop, which is not the same as other types of fishing shops. Cabela's sells em as well. Fly fishing shot tend not to have the clasps, and are much smaller. Use them spread out along the leader, not concentrated in a small area like a spin fisher would. Remember, you're using them only to sink, not to cast. And if your doing it with a drag free drift, the tension of the line doesn't pull the fly up like when you're swingin bait.
2. Yes. Lead is used less and less for shot, but still heavily incorporated into actual flies. The shiny new things are tungsten, tin, steel, etc. Hard to tell whether it spooks fish. But you can dull em up if it bothers you. Find an coffee cup or something and leave em on the porch in the sun and rain, maybe even add a little salt to em to quicken the process. They'll dull up...
3. You'll get a hundred different opinions here too. They can go under like a bobber, but more often it's a stop or brief hesitation that indicates a strike, fish don't hold onto a fly like bait. Indy fishing is an art that takes some time to master, but so does any other method of nymphing. What to look for? Castability. Floatability. Does it kink your leader? Is it easy to adjust depth? Does it slip (change depth when you don't want it to?). Is it easy to see? Does it spook fish with a splash or color? Whichever of these is most important to you and the places you fish....
Personally, I like thingamabobbers (yes, thats a brand) of various sizes. They make a right angle in the leader, which I find helpful in most situations where I nymph. They're easy on and off, don't slide, castable, visible without being obsene, and float well. Then again, I usually only use an indicator in long line, slow water situations.
2. Yes. Lead is used less and less for shot, but still heavily incorporated into actual flies. The shiny new things are tungsten, tin, steel, etc. Hard to tell whether it spooks fish. But you can dull em up if it bothers you. Find an coffee cup or something and leave em on the porch in the sun and rain, maybe even add a little salt to em to quicken the process. They'll dull up...
3. You'll get a hundred different opinions here too. They can go under like a bobber, but more often it's a stop or brief hesitation that indicates a strike, fish don't hold onto a fly like bait. Indy fishing is an art that takes some time to master, but so does any other method of nymphing. What to look for? Castability. Floatability. Does it kink your leader? Is it easy to adjust depth? Does it slip (change depth when you don't want it to?). Is it easy to see? Does it spook fish with a splash or color? Whichever of these is most important to you and the places you fish....
Personally, I like thingamabobbers (yes, thats a brand) of various sizes. They make a right angle in the leader, which I find helpful in most situations where I nymph. They're easy on and off, don't slide, castable, visible without being obsene, and float well. Then again, I usually only use an indicator in long line, slow water situations.
MKern
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I have removeable lead shot that doesn't have the wings.
They have another slit in hte back and can be pealed back. However, they aren't reusable.
IMO, the best indicator is a dry fly, but isn't practical all the time. For traditional indies I like the lightning strike brand. The tooth pick can be a pain sometimes.
The indie that I use the most often is one built into my leader ( @ 6" of yellow backing).
They have another slit in hte back and can be pealed back. However, they aren't reusable.
IMO, the best indicator is a dry fly, but isn't practical all the time. For traditional indies I like the lightning strike brand. The tooth pick can be a pain sometimes.
The indie that I use the most often is one built into my leader ( @ 6" of yellow backing).
joereese
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- Jun 23, 2010
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removing shot:
Even without the "wings" the egg style or round shot can be removed. I use the hook eye cleaning needle found on most nippers. I push the needle into the slit from the side, parallel to the line. This forces open the shot. Don't push it into the tippet so as not to damage it.
No, it doesn't break the needle. Or at least it hasn't happened to me yet
Even without the "wings" the egg style or round shot can be removed. I use the hook eye cleaning needle found on most nippers. I push the needle into the slit from the side, parallel to the line. This forces open the shot. Don't push it into the tippet so as not to damage it.
No, it doesn't break the needle. Or at least it hasn't happened to me yet
JackM
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Someone told me this and it works:
To remove splitshot, use a small plier or hemostats to grasp the shot so that the jaws are at the two extreme ends of the split and squeeze slightly. As the split shot gets slightly compressed, the seam/split will widen enough to work a fingernail into it and release it from your line.
To remove splitshot, use a small plier or hemostats to grasp the shot so that the jaws are at the two extreme ends of the split and squeeze slightly. As the split shot gets slightly compressed, the seam/split will widen enough to work a fingernail into it and release it from your line.
