It's almost 2023, name your favorite brookie setup

[Silent Ocelot]

...and now for my answer. Having conducted tests with 5 different rods that I find desirable for the small brook trout creeks I have come to the conclusion after just one testing session at my local Orvis store that the new Superfine glass in the 2wt 6'6" configuration may be my new rod for fishing this application. It was such a good caster and seemed to lay the line down softer than any rod I own. I still have to test my SAGE Little ONE in the 1wt 8'2" configuration but I foresee the Orvis Superfine taking the cake. Hard to say though... I recently took my ONE out for an evening casting session and I see this rod as being almost ideal for these creeks, it makes very short and accurate casts so I see this as a great drydropper rod. The 8ft length is great too for line control (I won't say mending because I don't mend on these small creeks). In July I will purchase a Dart 0wt 7'6" to add to the "creeking" rod rotation. More on that when the time comes. This would be exciting for me because I could finally justify buying back my old SAGE 503l reel, which has been by far the nicest small creek reel I have owned. I may also add a now discontinued SAGE X 3wt 7'6" to the arsenal as I love the color on that blank. The two SAGE X rods I own have the "electric teal" paint, and as much as I am in love with that color, the regular X spruce colored blank is a wonderful and mature color for a rod blank. So anyways, the take away from this is don't be like me and go way over-the-top with choosing a brookie rod. All of the rods I mentioned would be stellar for my intended fishing application. When you start buying rods just to see how it looks in your intended environment or just to "test it out" in the backyard or on your preferred creek, I think that is when you have taken it too far.

I will state in general I have never cared much for rods under 7 feet for brookie fishing, with the exception of the new Superfine. I prefer at least some level of reach. 8ft is a fantastic length provided more than enough reach for getting a perfect dap (I won't sat drift) on these tiny creeks but short enough to work around most brush. The ONE 1wt may be the ticket, but we shall see...

 

[silverfox]

Usual issue w brookie streams: their different sizes. Attchd image is from detar pa-brookie wbtep study, showing stream drainage/size. Some familiar 15 sq km streams on list, = 5+ sq mi.

But I also fish a lot of 4 sq km/1.5 sq mi streams; smaller than any wbtep one. Only dries, few or no browns, under rhodo or hemlock branches.

-> 7'6" Redington Hydrogen 2wt cut to 5' 5," 35' rio gold 4wt line, wychwood river&stream 2 reel. Rod+reel+line = 3.2 oz. Blast to cast w/ obstructions, lucked into the Hydrogen used.

In a thread now under the forum for print, books, etc., there's a 1968 article talking about great solitude and nature experiences fishing small pa brookie streams... still true of course. I am just more optimistic about fly fishing them than that author was.

I like the tiny streams. I'm always amazed at some of the fish that come out of tiny trickles. This stream above the tiny confluence in the video is about 18 to 24 inches wide on average. Below the confluence, it's maybe 3-4 feet wide on average.

I also like fishing larger streams and wish we had more that were only brook trout.

Like this:

For me, the 7' (+/- inches) 3wt is perfect for either. You could fish the larger stream with a 9'-5wt if you wanted to, and I have, but you can also stretch the legs on a 7'-3wt, which for me, is more fun. I also love how a 6 inch fish on a 7'-3wt fiberglass rod feels like you're fighting an 18 inch fish on a 5wt. On tiny trickles, you can bow/arrow cast the 7'-3wt easily, or cast across land, or upstream through holes in the branches.

I love the technical casting. Each potential fish hold requires some thought about the approach. That might be one of my favorite aspects of small-stream fishing.

 

[Sharknado5]

I'd have to try the C.G.R. 5wt 7'6". I have the C.G.R. in the 2wt 6'2" platform and have found it abysmal. $50, if anyone is interested, only lawn casted VERY briefly.

I do some brookie fishing and I'm no casting expert but this is my rundown of the CGRs, I bought the series because of the price. I found that I can't cast the 6-2 2 weight with any line I've tried. The 5-9 3 weight cast OK but I felt like I was working too hard to cast 20 feet. The 6-6 4 weight however seems perfect for me, casts a tight loop and shoots great, I sometimes use it on bigger streams. I bought a backup 4 weight just in case. 7-0 5 weight also pretty good caster, but not as fun as the 4. 7-6 5-6 weight I haven't used on a small stream but it just feels a bit heavy. And the fighting butt looks pretentious The 7-6 7-8 weight (not sure it's still available) I haven't used much, definitely have to work too hard to make longer casts.

Cabelas used to sell a one-piece fiberglass Prime series which were really soft. They are fun to cast but definitely a PIA to transport being one-piece.

Since this thread is about brookie setups I have a related question. What do you guys prefer for wading brooks in decent weather? I usually use hippers just because I'm leary of no ankle protection climbing over rocks and dodging snakes?

 

[The_Sasquatch]

I walked into that one... ya got me.

I do have the Prime (their 1 piece glass rod) in like, a 3wt I think, 6' if I'm not mistaken. And it's crap. I hardly ever use it. Their 7'6" 5wt is a FAR better rod. It feels like my Fenwick FF75

 

[silverfox]

Since this thread is about brookie setups I have a related question. What do you guys prefer for wading brooks in decent weather? I usually use hippers just because I'm leary of no ankle protection climbing over rocks and dodging snakes?

As long as the weather and water temps support it, I wet wade regardless of water size. I wear lightweight pants like Columbia's Silver Ridge and wet-wading boots like Simms flyweights. I wet-waded this year right through October. After that it's just waders regardless of small streams or big streams. I do have the dryft pant waders (the black ones) and I wear those on long backcountry brookie outings if it's rainy or I just want a little better protection from bugs, snakes, and poison ivy/oak.

Snakes are the only thing that concern me, but in all my years of doing this, I've only had 2 run-ins that might have resulted in a bite and both were copperheads. Neither struck me. 1 was close but if it would've hit me, it would've hit my arm, not my leg. Three rattlesnakes but they were all on the trail and I saw them long before I got near em. I just watch where I'm walking and stay out of high grass or brush piles or anywhere where I can't see exactly where I'm stepping. Otherwise, I'm IN the stream as much as possible rock-hopping to stay away from nope ropes.

 

[sarce]

Typically hip boots for me as well for protection against thorny plants (I always get cheap ones, knowing they're going to get torn up most places I fish). If it's a longer hike and the stream is more rocky and open I'll just walk through the stream crossings in my hiking boots.

 

[Bamboozle]

As a fan of slower rods I can offer a few comments in regards to the need for a fast rod for punch or a tight loop...

#1. If you have your timing down, a rod that is loaded properly will shoot any amount of line you will need to make your presentation. This means you DON'T need a fast rod with high line speed to cast into a rhododendron tunnel.​

​

I know this because I don't own a fast trout rod and I cast into tunnels all the time.​

#2. A LONG time ago, some famous caster I can't recall advocated using a "push/pull" motion with the rod versus a pendulum motion so the rod tip traveled in a straight line versus an arc. Since the line follows the rod tip, one thing this does achieve is to dramatically tighten your loop. If you haven't, try it some time and you will see the difference.​

​

This is the method I employ to tighten my loops and get into tight places, even with rods many people people would describes as soft. slow or "whippy."​

Bottom line, if you like moderate action rods, don't feel feel obliged to buy a specialty fast stick just for this kind of fishing. If a fast stick is your thing...

...enjoy!!

...Since this thread is about brookie setups I have a related question. What do you guys prefer for wading brooks in decent weather? I usually use hippers just because I'm leary of no ankle protection climbing over rocks and dodging snakes?

I wet wade 99% of the time regardless if it's brookie fishing or fishing the Susquehanna for smallmouth. I wear the same wading shoes I wear with waders using a Neoprene "guard sock" to give me the same fit as waders or hippers.

Another thing I started doing a long time ago on small streams is using a wading staff. While the chance of drowning on really small creeks is small, the chance of tripping and falling and busting your rod or your neck is a lot greater...

...plus a wading staff is great for poking snakes or poking around rocks and such BEFORE you put a foot in...

 

[Silent Ocelot]

As long as the weather and water temps support it, I wet wade regardless of water size. I wear lightweight pants like Columbia's Silver Ridge and wet-wading boots like Simms flyweights. I wet-waded this year right through October. After that it's just waders regardless of small streams or big streams. I do have the dryft pant waders (the black ones) and I wear those on long backcountry brookie outings if it's rainy or I just want a little better protection from bugs, snakes, and poison ivy/oak.

Snakes are the only thing that concern me, but in all my years of doing this, I've only had 2 run-ins that might have resulted in a bite and both were copperheads. Neither struck me. 1 was close but if it would've hit me, it would've hit my arm, not my leg. Three rattlesnakes but they were all on the trail and I saw them long before I got near em. I just watch where I'm walking and stay out of high grass or brush piles or anywhere where I can't see exactly where I'm stepping. Otherwise, I'm IN the stream as much as possible rock-hopping to stay away from nope ropes.

You and I have the same mentality for what we wear when we fish. I have never encountered any venomous snakes while fishing, though as a kid I came across a timberwood rattler sunbathing on a rock. It was out in the open and everyone could see it so there was no chance at spooking it. This was at a location near the Reed's Gap state park.

As a kid I encountered a lot of non-venomous water snakes so I am still kind of wary of them. I can recall a particular instance at Caledonia where I stepped on one and it hissed at me. They always seem to have had an attraction to me as a kid, or maybe I was that unaware of my surroundings. I still see some sometimes, bigger ones, like 6 feet plopping about in Hay or French Creek. Nowadays I am much more afraid of the snapping turtles.

 

[Silent Ocelot]

As a fan of slower rods I can offer a few comments in regards to the need for a fast rod for punch or a tight loop...

#1. If you have your timing down, a rod that is loaded properly will shoot any amount of line you will need to make your presentation. This means you DON'T need a fast rod with high line speed to cast into a rhododendron tunnel.​

​

I know this because I don't own a fast trout rod and I cast into tunnels all the time.​

#2. A LONG time ago, some famous caster I can't recall advocated using a "push/pull" motion with the rod versus a pendulum motion so the rod tip traveled in a straight line versus an arc. Since the line follows the rod tip, one thing this does achieve is to dramatically tighten your loop. If you haven't, try it some time and you will see the difference.​

​

This is the method I employ to tighten my loops and get into tight places, even with rods many people people would describes as soft. slow or "whippy."​

Bottom line, if you like moderate action rods, don't feel feel obliged to buy a specialty fast stick just for this kind of fishing. If a fast stick is your thing...

...enjoy!!


I wet wade 99% of the time regardless if it's brookie fishing or fishing the Susquehanna for smallmouth. I wear the same wading shoes I wear with waders using a Neoprene "guard sock" to give me the same fit as waders or hippers.

Another thing I started doing a long time ago on small streams is using a wading staff. While the chance of drowning on really small creeks is small, the chance of tripping and falling and busting your rod or your neck is a lot greater...

...plus a wading staff is great for poking snakes or poking around rocks and such BEFORE you put a foot in...

I should have been more specific, I prefer a good moderate action rod with an aggressive progressive taper and stout tip. The ultra-fast rods aren't really great for small creeks as they require a lot of line out of the tip to load properly. They also aren't very sensitive in close so there is a potential for missed strikes.

To provide a good example for the rod that I like to use for this application I will reference the new Hardy Ultralight SR 3wt 7 foot. To me this rod employs the ideal characteristics one would want in a small stream rod. It's accurate and has a lot of feel. It bends more than my Epic fiberglass rod, but that Epic glass rod is fast by glass standards. It just has the "springy" feel to it that I love and slings a RIO Creek 3WF-F line quite well.

I'd also like to say that the little ONE is softened up compared to the regular ONE.

 

[Bamboozle]

...To provide a good example for the rod that I like to use for this application I will reference the new Hardy Ultralight SR 3wt 7 foot...

... It just has the "springy" feel to it that I love and slings a RIO Creek 3WF-F line quite well.

I use nothing but true to weight, standard taper DT's on all of my "brookie set-ups," which is more often than a Sci-Angler's Mastery DT or the Terenzio real silk lines that I use on my bamboo rods.

I discovered a long time ago is rod loading on the short casts that are the norm on small waters benefits from having the maximum amount of fly line out past the tip top. That is most easily accomplished with short leader (around 5 to 6 feet long) and enhanced by a fly line with a short front taper. That's why I like the Mastery DT lines that have a front taper under 5' on a 3wt line.

Following this practice I have never found a need for heavier than standard fly line to load my rods in close.

 

[kbobb]

I like glass rods a lot for local fishing. 7'3" Steffen 2/3 wt for tight streams and an 8'1" L Kenney 3 wt for more open water. These glass rods are true to line wts. Also glass rods worry me less when the tips are bangin' off tree branches.
I've cast some inexpensive glass rods and they mostly need to be overlined for the short casts on the brook trout streams I generally fish. Usually I'm crawling thru rhododendron or poking the rod between branches. It doesn't take a whole lot of rod to cast small flies and land 3" - 10" fish.
Labrador brookies - no experience there

 

[krayfish2]

Any rod that has this on it

 

[pcray1231]

I discovered a long time ago is rod loading on the short casts that are the norm on small waters benefits from having the maximum amount of fly line out past the tip top. That is most easily accomplished with short leader (around 5 to 6 feet long) and enhanced by a fly line with a short front taper. That's why I like the Mastery DT lines that have a front taper under 5' on a 3wt line.

Following this practice I have never found a need for heavier than standard fly line to load my rods in close.

Translation:

If I shorten my leader up excessively, and pick a really front loaded line, then I can get away with using my really light line weight.

I believe that completely. But, why? Why not just use a 4 or 5 weight line that's more suited to loading the rod at those distances? Then you can make your leader length whatever you need it to be to fit the conditions. You probably have another rod that throws a 4 or 5 wt line, so use the reel-line combo that's on that. Less reel and line combos in the quiver.

Sometimes I think there's a "small fish, must use really light line" mental thing going on that I don't fully get. You stated it benefits to have the maximum amount of fly line out past the rod tip. So it casts better as you add line. This is the very definition of being in an underlined condition. As you add line, you are adding weight to load the rod. You can accomplish the same, without needing longer distance, by using heavier line.

 

[redietz]

I wet wade 99% of the time regardless if it's brookie fishing or fishing the Susquehanna for smallmouth. I wear the same wading shoes I wear with waders using a Neoprene "guard sock" to give me the same fit as waders or hippers.

Another thing I started doing a long time ago on small streams is using a wading staff. While the chance of drowning on really small creeks is small, the chance of tripping and falling and busting your rod or your neck is a lot greater...

...plus a wading staff is great for poking snakes or poking around rocks and such BEFORE you put a foot in...

Agree on all counts.

 

[Bamboozle]

Translation:

If I shorten my leader up excessively, and pick a really front loaded line, then I can get away with using my really light line weight.

I believe that completely. But, why? Why not just use a 4 or 5 weight line that's more suited to loading the rod at those distances? Then you can make your leader length whatever you need it to be to fit the conditions. You probably have another rod that throws a 4 or 5 wt line, so use the reel-line combo that's on that. Less reel and line combos in the quiver.

Sometimes I think there's a "small fish, must use really light line" mental thing going on that I don't fully get. You stated it benefits to have the maximum amount of fly line out past the rod tip. So it casts better as you add line. This is the very definition of being in an underlined condition. As you add line, you are adding weight to load the rod. You can accomplish the same, without needing longer distance, by using heavier line.

No translations required, I fish this way for a couple of reasons:

First off, where I brookie fish a long leader isn't necessary for the conditions and I actually prefer leaders as short as I can get away with everywhere I fish. I use 3 foot long furled leaders to which I'll add about two feet of tippet. They work excellently and in conjunction with the lines I like, I can cover ANY distance I encounter brookie fishing.

Second, any rod I have that throws a 3wt line is severely overloaded with a 4 or 5 at any distance longer than about 15 feet unless it is a LONG front taper line which suck at short distances, especially with a longer leader. I like the lines I use because they work equally as well on big streams and trickles, that's a plus in my book and it means I don't need a special line for a particular rod or stream.. I also love the rods I own between 5'0" and 7'0" because other than reach, I could fish them anywhere at any distance.

Over-lining a rod is never been in my book of tricks because I'm not about to carry extra spools or lines and I honestly have no need to do it with the rods I own and the actions I prefer.

Third, I own one rod shorter than 7'0" that is rated for anything heavier that a 3wt and that's an Orvis bamboo Flea which is a 6'6" 4wt. Some people prefer it with a 3wt line. If you know that rod, you know a 5wt line on it would be a disaster. For me with a 4wt line it casts like a dream from 6 foot to 60.

I could use one or two of the 7'0" 4wts I have, but there are a lot of times I want Scotch instead of Bourbon, in other words I WANT to fish a shorter rod because I enjoy them or they are better suited to the conditions. If I am going to a brookie stream where I can get away with a 7'6" or longer rod, I'd probably grab a Tenkara rod instead which is ideal for brookie fishing and easier to maneuver through the woods.

Finally, short rods balance better with light reels. I like my outfits as static balanced as possible and there is no way in anything other than bamboo you will find a reel that will hold a 5wt line that balances a short rod. It might also be the reason the makers of my short glass rods designed them for 3wt lines.

Could I give up the concept of static balance in rod & reel combos? Positively! Could buy a DT5, cut it in half to get it to fit on a smaller reel, sure but to be honest I have zero interest or need for any rod at any length that needs a line size or two heavier to load the way I like when casting 10-15 feet.

That's why my shortest rods are all 3 weights, not because I am a line line fanatic. As a matter of fact, I probably fish 5wts and 6wts more often than anything but I just don't own anything short that handles a heavier line well and I really have no need or desire to acquire one.

That's why there is Scotch and Bourbon...

 

[pcray1231]

Over-lining a rod is never been in my book of tricks because I'm not about to carry extra spools or lines and I honestly have no need to do it with the rods I own and the actions I prefer.

Fair enough. Above is one reason I do overline and use heavier equipment.

I have 6 rods I think, 3 reels, and one of those never gets used unless I am outfitting a partner without their own equipment. I have a reel with 5 wt line on it, and one with 7 wt, the backup carries a 5 wt line too.

Brookie rod - 7'6" 4/5 wt - uses the 7 wt combo if small and thick, 5 wt combo if bigger and more open.
8' tweener 5 wt - uses 5 wt
8' bamboo 5 wt - uses 5 wt
9 ft 5 wt - uses 5 wt
A second 9 ft 5 wt - uses 5 wt
10' 7 wt - uses 7 wt combo for steelhead and bass.

As for leader length. The knot has to be out the tip top when hook is on the hook keeper. So I'm probably using a 7 ftish leader. Sometimes if needed I'll lengthen it a little, and then I wrap the line around the reel and back to the hook keeper. I HATE repeatedly pulling that knot out the tip top at every stop, then reeling it back in to walk 20 yards, then pulling it out again. But other than that I like a longer leader for brookie fishin.

I switch leaders out a lot. I tie up brookie leaders, dry fly leaders, nymphing leaders, and streamer leaders. And put them on whichever outfit for the occasion. And then I adjust them a lot on stream too.

Bourbon please...

 

[Silent Ocelot]

No translations required, I fish this way for a couple of reasons:

First off, where I brookie fish a long leader isn't necessary for the conditions and I actually prefer leaders as short as I can get away with everywhere I fish. I use 3 foot long furled leaders to which I'll add about two feet of tippet. They work excellently and in conjunction with the lines I like, I can cover ANY distance I encounter brookie fishing.

Second, any rod I have that throws a 3wt line is severely overloaded with a 4 or 5 at any distance longer than about 15 feet unless it is a LONG front taper line which suck at short distances, especially with a longer leader. I like the lines I use because they work equally as well on big streams and trickles, that's a plus in my book and it means I don't need a special line for a particular rod or stream.. I also love the rods I own between 5'0" and 7'0" because other than reach, I could fish them anywhere at any distance.

Over-lining a rod is never been in my book of tricks because I'm not about to carry extra spools or lines and I honestly have no need to do it with the rods I own and the actions I prefer.

Third, I own one rod shorter than 7'0" that is rated for anything heavier that a 3wt and that's an Orvis bamboo Flea which is a 6'6" 4wt. Some people prefer it with a 3wt line. If you know that rod, you know a 5wt line on it would be a disaster. For me with a 4wt line it casts like a dream from 6 foot to 60.

I could use one or two of the 7'0" 4wts I have, but there are a lot of times I want Scotch instead of Bourbon, in other words I WANT to fish a shorter rod because I enjoy them or they are better suited to the conditions. If I am going to a brookie stream where I can get away with a 7'6" or longer rod, I'd probably grab a Tenkara rod instead which is ideal for brookie fishing and easier to maneuver through the woods.

Finally, short rods balance better with light reels. I like my outfits as static balanced as possible and there is no way in anything other than bamboo you will find a reel that will hold a 5wt line that balances a short rod. It might also be the reason the makers of my short glass rods designed them for 3wt lines.

Could I give up the concept of static balance in rod & reel combos? Positively! Could buy a DT5, cut it in half to get it to fit on a smaller reel, sure but to be honest I have zero interest or need for any rod at any length that needs a line size or two heavier to load the way I like when casting 10-15 feet.

That's why my shortest rods are all 3 weights, not because I am a line line fanatic. As a matter of fact, I probably fish 5wts and 6wts more often than anything but I just don't own anything short that handles a heavier line well and I really have no need or desire to acquire one.

That's why there is Scotch and Bourbon...

Good post B.

I am curious as to why you state a Tenkara rod is better for taking to a small creek. To my knowledge most Tenkara rods are 8+ feet on the small end. Do you collapse it when moving upstream to navigate the woods better? Seems kind of ridiculous to me to collapse or take down any rod when advancing upstream due to the fact that I work a small creek fast as the fish tend to get spooky after a few fish are hooked or I spooked them myself with bad wading skills or gaffing a cast. I've had no issues taking a 7'6" rod through the rods and if the woods got really dense I could just wade up the creek. I wouldn't state Tenkara as ideal for small creek brookie fishing, rather less than ideal and problematic, but perhaps there is a difference in how are preferred brookie haunts look. I for one could never have a rod with a fixed set amount of line on the tip. There's some instances where I have maybe three feet of line out of the tip and my line won't even touch the water.

Also not sure about the 15 feet of line out of the tip, combined with the leader you are running along with it that would already be 20 ft. of line out of the tip, and this is before you put on tippet to the leader (not sure if you do that in this particular rig). I could never get away with having 20+ of line out of the rod at the tiny 7 foot wide stream I fish for brookies, barring one long pool.

I will say that I also advocate for shorter leaders on small creeks, your leader sounds like something I'd use.

 

[Bamboozle]

Good post B.

I am curious as to why you state a Tenkara rod is better for taking to a small creek...

WHERE it is suitable, Tenkara excels because of the reach offered...

I still remember the day I dared to use an 11 foot Tenkara rod on a small Pocono Class A with lots of boulders sitting well above the water's surface.

I usually fished this creek with a 7'0" or 6'6" rod. Casts were never that long because I prefer getting as close as possible to my target versus going for a hero cast because long casts on small streams aren't necessary and they only get you into trouble with tree branches.

The problem was getting a good drag free drift around those boulders and rocks with a short rod and trying to keep ANY amount of line off the water because the water pulls on the fly line and F's up the presentation.

With my Tenkara rod, I could stand 10 to 20 feet away from those lies and just reach over the rocks and thread the fly around the boulders with no problem or drag. It was a revelation for me and a LOT of fun!!

Is a fixed line a hindrance? Yes if you want to cast 40 or 50 feet but IF you have the room to aerialize that much "line" you can always switch your shorter Tenkara line for a longer one which takes about a minute.

Is switching lines or fully collapsing a Tenkara rod to move from place to place a PIA? Sure but it is also a PIA to have to constantly reel in my regular fly line when moving from pool to pool or when my cigar goes out or my fly keeps sinking. Fly fishing is full of fussy tasks or hassles. I've just got used to a few of them.

Where I use my Tenkara rods the need to switch lines or full collapse the rod to move is a rare occasion. I know the water or I've reconnoitered in advance so I know the length of the casts I'll be making. That's how I decide on what length line to tie on first. Most of the time, when I move, I can get away with just partially collapsing the rod and holding my fly in my fingers. To be honest, doing that and re-extending the Tenkara rod at the next pool takes less time than reeling in fly line and re-extending fly line at the next pool.

However nothing is easier than walking through thick brush with a fully collapsed Tenkara rod.

Tenkara is DEFINITELY not as flexible as conventional fly fishing and DEFINITELY not suitable for every place I fish. However I can DEFINITELY fish at a lot more places than I did in the beginning because of the understanding of how to use the technique gained through experience.

It's not for everybody but if you ever tried a Tenkara rod at that Pocono Class A, you would be hooked!

 

[Silent Ocelot]

WHERE it is suitable, Tenkara excels because of the reach offered...

I still remember the day I dared to use an 11 foot Tenkara rod on a small Pocono Class A with lots of boulders sitting well above the water's surface.

I usually fished this creek with a 7'0" or 6'6" rod. Casts were never that long because I prefer getting as close as possible to my target versus going for a hero cast because long casts on small streams aren't necessary and they only get you into trouble with tree branches.

The problem was getting a good drag free drift around those boulders and rocks with short rod and trying to keep ANY amount of line off the water because the water pulls on the fly line and F's up the presentation.

With my Tenkara rod, I could stand 10 to 20 feet away from those lies and just reach over the rocks and thread the fly around the boulders with no problem or drag. It was a revelation for me and a LOT of fun!!

Is a fixed line a hindrance? Yes if you want to cast 40 or 50 feet but IF you have the room to aerialize that much "line" you can always switch your shorter Tenkara line for a longer one which takes about a minute.

Is switching lines or fully collapsing a Tenkara rod to move from place to place a PIA? Sure but it is also a PIA to have to constantly reel in my regular fly line when moving from pool to pool or when my cigar goes out or my fly keeps sinking. Fly fishing is full of fussy tasks or hassles. I've just got used to a few of them.

Where I use my Tenkara rods the need to switch lines or full collapse the rod to move is a rare occasion. I know the water or I've reconnoitered in advance so I know the length of the casts I'll be making. That's how I decide on what length line to tie on first. Most of the time, when I move, I can get away with just partially collapsing the rod and holding my fly in my fingers. To be honest, doing that and re-extending the Tenkara rod at the next pool takes less time than reeling in fly line and re-extending fly line at the next pool.

However nothing is easier than walking through thick brush with a fully collapsed Tenkara rod.

Tenkara is DEFINITELY not as flexible as conventional fly fishing and DEFINITELY not suitable for every place I fish. However I can DEFINITELY fish at a lot more places than I did in the beginning because of the understanding of how to use the technique gained through experience.

It's not for everybody but if you ever tried a Tenkara rod at that Pocono Class A, you would be hooked!

That's fair, thank you for clarifying.

 

[silverfox]

WHERE it is suitable, Tenkara excels because of the reach offered...

I still remember the day I dared to use an 11 foot Tenkara rod on a small Pocono Class A with lots of boulders sitting well above the water's surface.

I usually fished this creek with a 7'0" or 6'6" rod. Casts were never that long because I prefer getting as close as possible to my target versus going for a hero cast because long casts on small streams aren't necessary and they only get you into trouble with tree branches.

The problem was getting a good drag free drift around those boulders and rocks with a short rod and trying to keep ANY amount of line off the water because the water pulls on the fly line and F's up the presentation.

With my Tenkara rod, I could stand 10 to 20 feet away from those lies and just reach over the rocks and thread the fly around the boulders with no problem or drag. It was a revelation for me and a LOT of fun!!

Is a fixed line a hindrance? Yes if you want to cast 40 or 50 feet but IF you have the room to aerialize that much "line" you can always switch your shorter Tenkara line for a longer one which takes about a minute.

Is switching lines or fully collapsing a Tenkara rod to move from place to place a PIA? Sure but it is also a PIA to have to constantly reel in my regular fly line when moving from pool to pool or when my cigar goes out or my fly keeps sinking. Fly fishing is full of fussy tasks or hassles. I've just got used to a few of them.

Where I use my Tenkara rods the need to switch lines or full collapse the rod to move is a rare occasion. I know the water or I've reconnoitered in advance so I know the length of the casts I'll be making. That's how I decide on what length line to tie on first. Most of the time, when I move, I can get away with just partially collapsing the rod and holding my fly in my fingers. To be honest, doing that and re-extending the Tenkara rod at the next pool takes less time than reeling in fly line and re-extending fly line at the next pool.

However nothing is easier than walking through thick brush with a fully collapsed Tenkara rod.

Tenkara is DEFINITELY not as flexible as conventional fly fishing and DEFINITELY not suitable for every place I fish. However I can DEFINITELY fish at a lot more places than I did in the beginning because of the understanding of how to use the technique gained through experience.

It's not for everybody but if you ever tried a Tenkara rod at that Pocono Class A, you would be hooked!

You can also "choke" up on a tenkara rod. I'll hold the 11' 2wt tenkara at about 5 feet up the rod. Just because they telescope to 11 feet doesn't mean you have to fish the rod at 11 feet in length. The biggest benefit I've found is exactly what you said. If you have to crawl through some mountain laurel tunnels, a collapsed tenkara is hard to beat. The first few times I did that, it was a revelation.

That said, I only use tenkara if I'm out on a whim since it stays in my truck 24/7 whereas I don't haul around any other rods. I just prefer a reel and more line control. I'll never bash tenkara though.