What Are You Tying Today?

Parachute flying ant, fly-rite golden amber and chocolate brown extra fine poly dubbing, soft black poly legs, tiemco hi-viz parachute, medium dun hackle, and black 50D gsp thread on bent kinked #16 Mustad 33937.
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Skaidi

Hook - Single Salmon
Thread - Black
Tad - Oval silver tinsel
Tail - Green floss
Ribbing - Oval Silver tinsel
Body - Flat silver tinsel
Throat - Green hackle
Wing - Gray squirrel dyed green

The Complete Illustrated Directory of Salmon Flies - Chris Mann
 
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Dull Pupa

Hook - Curved
Bead - White
Thread - Gray
Over Body - Clear buzzer wrap or clear tinsel
Rib - Wine, red or black thread
Body - Tying thread
Thorax - Rust or burnt orange thread

Thread-bodied chironomid pupa patterns such as the Dull Pupa are a wise option when trout are focused on suspending pupa early in the emergence. At this time, the pupae haven't gathered enough gas beneath their skin, which makes them shiny. Bright patterns are not always the best option. Inspired by good friend Brian Chan, the Dull Pupa also uses a clear Buzzer Wrap to protect the thread color, so it doesn't change when you apply a protective coating of UV. Resin, superglue or nail polish.
 
Buckling down this morning and knocking out some stuff I'm actually going to need soon.... Time to start tying in some sort of order! 🤣
Baetis parachutes, spinners, and no hackle cripple / emergers.
All tied on #18 Mustad R30AP and R50AP "Classic Dry"
Nice little hooks I've been using for 2 seasons now. The R30AP is a very fine wire style hook (really they both are) so you can't get heavy handed in the vise or on the stream..... but they really compliment these small patterns, especially the no hackle stuff. Wide gap and doesn't want to just swamp the fly or overpower the look of the fly.

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Sulphur Nymph

I use two basic sulphur nymph patterns. This style, with a UTC vinyl abdomen and medallion sheeting wing case...and the other Rothrock style with a dubbed color matched body and goose quill wing case.
(If I'm feeling lazy and want to knock out a bunch of useable flies I'll use the same medallion sheeting wing case with the full dubbed fly because its quicker and easier to work with.)
These are a little fancier but I've been leaning more on these vinyl ribbed abdomen style smaller nymphs because I think they just look more "alive" with the translucent and segmented bodies.

Hook - #16 2XL of your choice. That makes a finished body to the head of about 8.5- 9mm which puts it at the top end of the invaria and close enough to the slightly larger rotunda so it covers you close enough for both.
You can also alter this pattern for the later smaller dorothea by altering the hook (18 2xl) and the material slightly.
Thread - Brown 18/0 Semperfli Nano Silk
Abdomen - UTC vinyl in "Tan" and in the "nymph" size. (Use the "Midge" size for the #18's)
Sulphur nymphs are a very basic brownish/tanish dirt color with hints of olive and amber.
You can also make some darker versions using the same material but in UTC "Brown" color.

Underbody - "Dark brown" 8/0 Uni thread. (I whip the 18/0 thread off after tying in the tails and vinyl. Then use a second bobbin with the 8/0 uni to build a tapered darker underbody....and then swap back to the 18/0 to finish the fly after the underbody is built. I do this for three reasons.....the uni is darker, CHEAPER, and builds up the underbody quicker.....and the 18/0 just makes for a cleaner less bulky fly as the primary tying thread. It's worth the flip flop. If you haven't tied with 18/0 nano silk on your smaller flies......it can be a game changer.
Tails and legs - Wood duck flank. I look for the next level up in barring on the feathers from my baetis nymphs. About 12 fibers or so for each leg side and tail. I make the tails and the legs the same length as the visible abdomen.
Thorax - Ligas Ultra Translucent #35 "Medium Hares ear" which is really a dark brown with hints of amber and olive color. Give it a slight brush and trim any crazy hairs.
Wingcase - Dark dun "medallion sheeting". A thin layer of medium solarez UV to build up just a bit more bulk and sheen. Sulphur naturals are stocky little guys with squared shoulders so I try to square the thorax just shy of the head vs say a more tapered teardrop look of a baetis.


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Really nice!
 
Buckling down this morning and knocking out some stuff I'm actually going to need soon.... Time to start tying in some sort of order! 🤣
Baetis parachutes, spinners, and no hackle cripple / emergers.
All tied on #18 Mustad R30AP and R50AP "Classic Dry"
Nice little hooks I've been using for 2 seasons now. The R30AP is a very fine wire style hook (really they both are) so you can't get heavy handed in the vise or on the stream..... but they really compliment these small patterns, especially the no hackle stuff. Wide gap and doesn't want to just swamp the fly or overpower the look of the fly.

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I am a big fan of the Mustad Heritage barbless streamer hooks. I buy, tie, and fish a ton of them.
 
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