WF or DT

I think the reason why one would cut the DT in half is because DT lines aren't known for cast long distances so why need 80 to 100ft of it. I would only use a DT line on small trout stream where you don't cast to far because if I'm fishing any thing bigger id go with a WF to cast longer distances.
 
tomgamber wrote:
I don't understand why you keep saying to cut a line in half. No backing is better than half a line. Not many see their backing but I get more than half way up my line on a regular basis. If you cut your line in half you cannot cast more than 36 feet.

Yeah, but then you can say, "Heck of a fish.... took me into my backing." A lot more often. :-D
 
I'd say more like 40-45 depending on the line...That's all one really needs for short line work..IMO, we're really talking about two different applications..WF for big water (distance casting)..DT for med to small streams..That's how I rig up..You could cut excess line off your wf too, reducing weight..
85% of my fishing takes place within the bounds of 40ft of fly line..Don't forget leader adds average 9 foot..
 
I only cut my dt3 in half, using each half on different reels. I have no problem with casting, I only use these on my little brookie rods, longest cast might be 15 feet. my dt6 I just recently turned around, nice getting a new line for "free". as for dt vs wf, I wouldn't say one is better than the other, they will have a different feel on different rods, just as different wt lines will. it's all personal preference. I use both and like both. hell, I even use a level line for bass!! it was 6 bucks!
 
Plus, you get two lines in one..When one wears out you have a spare..

How many are casting more then 50 foot on Penns, or the littleJ, Spring..If so seems like a waste of energy..
 
unless your fishing for steelheads you will never see backing in Pennsyltucky-lol
 
tomgamber wrote:
I don't understand why you keep saying to cut a line in half. No backing is better than half a line. Not many see their backing but I get more than half way up my line on a regular basis. If you cut your line in half you cannot cast more than 36 feet.

If you're pressed for room, and already don't have much backing on the reel, then you're gonna have to find plenty of room.

So, pre-split your DT line, put half on the reel and the other half on the spool for a couple years.
 
pete41 wrote:
unless your fishing for steelheads you will never see backing in Pennsyltucky-lol

Untrue.
 
I use WF all the time
 
assuming one knows how to play fish.
 
pete41 wrote:
assuming one knows how to play fish.

You're the guy that always preaches unsportsmanlike light lining for the "sporting" aspect of tiring a fish out, right?

Do tell.
 
pete41 wrote:
unless your fishing for steelheads you will never see backing in Pennsyltucky-lol

Pete,
Don't tell that to the heavy fish on the Yough, especially when hooked in heavy water.

And if you go after hybrid stripers, make sure you have ENOUGH backing!
 
no-when I was child in my 20s and didn't know better but I grew up-
face it trout,even rainbows aren't fighters-
 
pete41 wrote:
no-when I was child in my 20s and didn't know better but I grew up-
face it trout,even rainbows aren't fighters-

Start a new thread. Stop hijacking this one. It's got actual info.
 
salvelinusfontinalis wrote:
I use WF all the time

When I bought a 3wt, I bought a DT line because I felt that it was expected of me.

I'd like to try out a different rod, specifically the 4wt that's my standard, with a DT versus a WF and see which I actually prefer. On my 3wt, there's too many differences between the rods to actually get a feel for what causes some of the differences I see, as its lighter and 'boo. I do know I can roll cast it like its nothing, but my casting distances are significantly shorter, and I lose accuracy with the 3wt DT.

I've also been told that out to the length of the front taper, there's absolutely zero difference between a DT and WF line's castability.
 
If you begin with a 90ft line and you cut it in half you have 45 ft. If you subtract the 9+ft you keep in the guides so you can manage the line with your hand you now have about 35 ft. That's 5 ft further than the distance between the down markers in football. I can spit that far. If I bought a reel that was too small for it purpose I would take off all the backing first. The backing doesn't help you cast so it has little use as you will get into your backing from any casting over 35 ft rather than from any fish taking you there. Now if all you make are 20 ft casts, you're set. But as the saying goes MOST of your fishing is done less than 20 ft...not all.


My advice is to never cut a line in half. Do what you like but that's my advice.
 
I'm with tom on this one. I think cutting the line makes sense in most ways, but I would never want my rod to become a specialized tool. I would hate to hamstring myself to short casting, because if a 20 inch brown was rising just out of reach, I'd probably throw the line in the trash afterward.
 
How did we end up with 20 foot cast?

90' of dt split in half =45

I do not own a rod over 8 foot at the moment. I just do not see the need for the kind of fishing I do..So subtract 8 foot for the rod lenth end up with 37, add 10 foot leader =47 foot casting lenth, call it 45 if you want..

I just want to underline I through mostly drys..If I ever got in to steelies or fished out west I would invest in longer rod, but for now I just haven't the need..
 
sundrunk wrote:
How did we end up with 20 foot cast?

90' of dt split in half =45

I do not own a rod over 8 foot at the moment. I just do not see the need for the kind of fishing I do..So subtract 8 foot for the rod lenth end up with 37, add 10 foot leader =47 foot casting lenth, call it 45 if you want..

I just want to underline I through mostly drys..If I ever got in to steelies or fished out west I would invest in longer rod, but for now I just haven't the need..

Some of us just fish harder than others.

:lol: :p
 
Is that like "working harder not smarter"?
 
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