strike indicators

Yeah, looks cool. Never tried it. Someone asked how to rig these and I thought, "there's another way?". So I googled and found that. Hope it helps.
 
I tried that with a thingama-indicator this morning. You can cinch it tight so it doesn't move easily and it doesn't kink the leader. However, the loop of backing or string you use has to be large enough to swing the bulb through three times, which means when you finalize the rig, the bulb is attached to the leader by about 1 to 1 and a half inches of string. That is, the bobber isn't up against the leader, but is on a short tether, which I think could cause an issue of casting and tangling around the leader. If I get out this weekend, I plan to try it and I'll report if any of these apparent issues are a problem. I did notice some leader kinking with the direct connection last weekend, but I was able to straighten it easily afterwards.
 
I also found that prusik connection before I replied "how do you rig it", but thought that it may causing casting issues. I'm kind of curious how that won't cause a royal mess when back casting, etc. I would think that assembly would just be a nightmare.

If it works it sure is easy enough to tie a section with a double surgeons knot and then make a prusik knot to the leader. Nice and adjustable or cinch it in place. Then again, with back casting, it could have a tendency to slide if cinched into place...

I'll let those of you who are much more experienced provide the feedback!
 
Other than the wear on the kinked leader, I think there are times when this could be a good thing as the attachment puts the lower portion (underwater) of your leader at an angle. Much like Jonas described doing for indicator nymphing at last years Jam.

OK, so my drawings aren't as neat as Jack's
 
Tom has reduced our favorite hobby to a game of pac man.

For what its worth, I purposely kink my leaders like that as well. I missed the jonas talk, but I saw it somewhere else. I've found that the places where I put split shot, and knots are often where my leader breaks... not on kinks.

I do obsess about sharpening my hooks though. Usually once every 10 minutes.
 
jayL wrote:

I do obsess about sharpening my hooks though. Usually once every 10 minutes.
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That is probably a good habit to get into. I can't say I've ever sharpened a hook on the stream. I've never been good at "peripherals" that keep my fly off the water. I hate tying new tippets on, let alone whole new leaders. I always try to prepare as much as possible before a trip because I know I won't get much accomplished on the terminal side once I'm on the stream. I am not even very good at catching the scenery around me. Something I've gotta work on I guess.
 
I sharpen my mustad's while in the vise.
I do very little sharpening on the stream, but I will sharpen dull hooks when I get home.
 
I never sharpened until the last trip to the salmon river. All that lead, mixed with snags on every other cast got me thinking about it. I went 0/6 on day 1, and bought a hook file. I never looked back.
 
tomgamber wrote:
Other than the wear on the kinked leader, I think there are times when this could be a good thing as the attachment puts the lower portion (underwater) of your leader at an angle. Much like Jonas described doing for indicator nymphing at last years Jam.

OK, so my drawings aren't as neat as Jack's
Click to expand...



I saw a similar rig on William Lorens site. You tie the bobber to the end of the leader and then attach your tippet to the indicator thus creating a ninety degree angle. I haven't tried it yet. I have done a similar rig with a dry fly instead of a bobber. Worked really good actually. Caught some wild browns with it🙂
 
IMO, the advantages of a 90* angle rig as described above are nullified by the fact that it can’t be adjusted to the proper depth. To fish effectively, most of the time, you need to be very close to the bottom. Especially in the cold water of winter, it is a rare occurrence for a fish to be suspended above the bottom while feeding, or for a fish to move any great distance from it’s holding position to feed, therefore a rig that can be adjusted to ride inches from the bottom of the stream is essential.

I believe that the same thing can be accomplished (a near vertical presentation) by spacing small shot (micro shot) or small pinches of Tacky Weight along the tippet, all the way up to a moveable indicator. This is similar to a center pinning rig. Experiment with the amount of weight and the spacing needed to get the rig to drift the way you want. I make yarn indicators to fish this type of rig, but yarn indicators of any size are very difficult to cast, eventually become waterlogged, and have to be dried and treated with floatant. From the comments on this board, the Thingamabobber looks like it holds a lot of promise for this type of rig. Jack, any tips on foraging for them?
 
afishinado wrote:
Jack, any tips on foraging for them?
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Streamside grazing is a hit-or-miss proposition. Sometimes you come back with a few rusty hooks, 1/4 oz. splitshot and ten feet of 30 lb. test monofilament, other times, a few fresh flies, reusable splitshot, and in my case a few weekends ago, a new-fangled magic indicator. Rusty flies are not always a bust, however, as they occasionally have a nice bead- or cone- head that can later be carved away with a straight razor and incorporated into a new tie.
 
afishinado wrote:
IMO, the advantages of a 90* angle rig as described above are nullified by the fact that it can’t be adjusted to the proper depth. To fish effectively, most of the time, you need to be very close to the bottom. Especially in the cold water of winter, it is a rare occurrence for a fish to be suspended above the bottom while feeding, or for a fish to move any great distance from it’s holding position to feed, therefore a rig that can be adjusted to ride inches from the bottom of the stream is essential.
Click to expand...

the bobber is just looped thru its hole. You can slide it up or down anytime you want very easily. I moved it 3 or 4 times until I found the right depth the day I used it. Even with the climbing knot technique, you can slide it up and down the leader very easily to any depth you want.
 
Tom, I think afishinado was commenting on the suggestion by Justfish which seems it would preclude adjusting the depth of the fly below the bobber.
 
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