South Bend Bamboo

[shakey]

some people have all the ferules replaced on production rods before they even use them.just a thought.

if you fish tip A on day one and tip B on day two,you'll be less likely to develop a set.

 

[foxfire]

Thanks again for the info. Stopped by an "antique" store this morning that I recalled having some old reels and picked up a perfectly functioning 1494 Pflueger (based on previous advise on this thread). Not knowing the 1495, my liminted research indicated the 1494 to be slightly smaller than the 1495. Assuming it's matched well with 5 weight line. Next up an old wicker creel to finish off the look!!! (actually I have a half dozen hanging on my cabin wall as "art")

 

[The_Sasquatch]

The 1494 will hold 5wt line just fine. I have mine lined w/ 6wt. I believe the real issue is balancing the rod correctly. There are ways to make them heavier though.

 

[JoeE]

Glues have changed over time which helped rods from taking sets. But most rods over time will take on a fishing set. I’ll take out a fishing set every few years and straighten if the rod has been fished hard. But I don’t have that many problems. While I don’t mind 2 tips I normally only build 2/1 rods. Most bamboo lovers like 2/2 or the 3/2 rods and rotate tips for even wear and not because of sets now a days. 2/2 and 3/2 are nice if an accident occurs it just means you have a 2/1 or 3/1 until the tip is repaired or new one made.
Dave, If you get a lot of stress at the ferrules the rod can develop a casting fracture at the ferrule where the finish cracks and over time water can get in and if the ferrules are pinned it can even make it worse if you don’t keep varnish on the rod to keep water out and once water does the damage you can get the classic compound fracture at the ferrule. Although in your case just too much power baby.

Joe E

 

[gfen]

foxfire wrote:
Not knowing the 1495, my liminted research indicated the 1494 to be slightly smaller than the 1495.

It is.

Should you need more weight (you will), there's a few options. Without spending any money, you can remove the hub cover off the front of the spool and put leadshot at batting inside, or wrap weight around the spool under the backing, either lead tape or leadcore trolling line (which takes up an inordinate amount of space).

If you're still having problems, a 1594RC spool will stick right on, giving you again about an extra ounce in palming rim.

 

[FarmerDave]

JoeE wrote:

Dave, If you get a lot of stress at the ferrules the rod can develop a casting fracture at the ferrule where the finish cracks and over time water can get in and if the ferrules are pinned it can even make it worse if you don’t keep varnish on the rod to keep water out and once water does the damage you can get the classic compound fracture at the ferrule. Although in your case just too much power baby.

Joe E

It was from applying too much power and likely some contribution from where the guides were located (a theory of mine).

All breaks were flush almost like it was sawed off.

I had same problem from another rod that I rebuilt from a very cheap 9 foot blank. We discussed it before. It's the one that was originally just a post WWII Japanese that had just been milled and glued (lots of gaps). I did it just for the practice, so I used very cheap components including ferrules that were probably 5 buck a pair give or take. I mean the females were open the whole way through. Used the larger snake guides for modern line and more of them. After breaking it, I picked up a bunch of old new stock that were slightly better quality (and I do mean slightly) and replaced the ferrules and removed the guide that was closest to the broken ferrule. My theory was in addition to the cheap ferrule cutting the rod, I figured that guide location was adding more stress. Haven't had a problem since (knock on wood), and I like that rod so much that use it for steelhead. Besides, I'm not out much if it breaks. and it doesn't look bad from a distance.