So I was brainstorming last night... BAMBOO!

Awesome updates!!!! Good-luck with the project, DJBerg!!!!
 
DJBerg,

You will have a lot of fun. What kind of oven are you building a heat gun or ?. I built a 6' oven years ago like the one in Wayne's book and a binder like Garrison's. I have a make shift extender for the oven when I'm building longer one piece rods. Are you making a binder or going to try and hand bind? I bind my Quads by hand but use the binder on all of my Hex rods. Plane blades and scraper are going to set you back a few dollars so be prepared. They both payoff in the long run. I have high ceilings and stairwell in the house and have plenty of room to dip 7' one piece rods so I have not put my dip tube in the floor. I just use a PVC tube mounted to the stairwell. It took me almost a year before I finished my first rod when i decided to make the plunge.

Joe E
 
outsider wrote:
FrequentTyer wrote:
I am now in the process of setting up a shop and still have to tackle a dip tube and oven, but otherwise all is go. If any of you that are interested in getting into this ever want to chat or bounce ideas around let me know. It's always good to have friends that share an addiction.
Mike.

I always thought a dip tube was used for something else.......

I'm afraid to ask.
 
DJBerg wrote:
well, a small update, have my home made forms all ready to drill and tap. got to my buddies, got all set up, finally put my first drill in the chuck, turn on the power... and the bit is swinging back and forth like a cows udders in the wind! google possible issues, seems the chuck heads are only pressed on, so i grab the dead blow and a punch. knock the head back off go to find a solid piece of block to re press the chuck on. and hear the machine turn on, and my buddy say " nope it's definitely the shaft that's bent!" DAMN IT! so now i wait for a new shaft to come in the mail... again the project is on pause, though i am going to start the oven project while waiting.

Well, at least you get to put off the filing for a while!
Are you going to also make a set of wooden roughing forms, or just try to get by with the metal forms?
Mike.
 
Mike good point.

DJBerg, I made a set of wooden roughing forms a long time ago then purchased a set of metal roughing forms for my Hex rods, then I built myself a Medved Style router beveler for my hex and quads. I only pull out the beveler if I'm going to run a lot of strips and will use my quad forms for roughing. They are simple to make but if I can find my wooden ones you can have them if you want.

Joe E
 
Mike- not 100% on which way i'm gonna go with the dip or turkey baster, still got some time with that one.

As for the filing, i'd rather have the blisters, and back ache than this impatient waiting on the company to take their 7-8 days handling time and then shipping via the usps, I HATE WAITING ON MAIL ORDER GOODIES, way too impatient on that one.

Unforgiven- thanks yeah maybe i'll start photo documenting this stuff, maybe, when i get started pics are the last thing on my mind and when i'm done for the day i usually gotta get to something the mrs wants done...

Joe E-Oven is gonna be a modified version of the basic heat gun, using my plastic welder(glorified heat gun with better heat control, and a blower that's not in the body of the heating element), using the plastic welder as a heat source, and some kind of a inline power controller thermostat, and thinking a tapered isolation and prob gonna be 8' long, since my diy forms are 9' this way when i get to spey/switch i can make 2 piece rods.

rough in's will be easy, and thanks for the offer if you were closer i would totally take you up on them. but i have a friend that is a ridiculously awesome finish carpenter. he and i should be able to put a decent angle in some hard wood, thinking 3 or 4 grooves for different rods.

binder is still up in the air, definitely want one but when i attempted to bind my south bend repair, just using my tying bobbin worked out well, so i'll prob stick to that unless i run into another issue, and have a "break" in production time.

another one is epoxy, i have read of guys using tight bond III and that is what i used on my south bend repair, worked great other than the set up time was super quick. another option i have is i know two guys who own a snowboard manufacturing company, so i want to go steal some of their two part epoxy as well and give that a whirl. but might end up using the epoxy from that recurve bow building site, they are also very well spoken for.

yeah that's about it i think thanks again for the info, and offers.
DJ
 
also one other one, taped splice joints or ferrels? leaning toward taped, but what's your thoughts?
 
DJBerg, I recently picked up a box of “fly tying stuff” off of Craigslist. In it was an old Herters No. 29 thread tensioner for rod wrapping. It’s yours if you want it, just pay the postage. PM me your address if you’re interested.
 
DJ, The spliced joints work and a lot of guys use them, but personally I would go with ferrules. You can get cheap ones on ebay that can be used for prototyping or for your first few while you working out the process. The ferrule weight does contribute to stress and alters the action of the rod, so I think it is important to get a feel for that when starting out
Rolf, those Herter's tensioners are great. I built a fancy wrapping station for my first few rods, but I now use the Herter's for everything. If DJ doesn't take you up on that offer and you are still looking to get rid of it I would be happy to make an offer to buy.
Mike.
 
Thanks Mike but it's already on its way to DJ.
 
Rolf wrote:
Thanks Mike but it's already on its way to DJ.
Great! He should be happy with it!
Thanks,
Mike.
 
For me, I would attempt to use a spliced joint for Spey rod tapers in the 15’ to 18’ rod length because at that length they would be normally 3 piece rods and the butt section ferrule probably would have to be custom made. While I did recently purchase a metal lathe to hopefully one day make my own ferrules that is a few years out. However, ferrules sizes from 8 to 18 are not that expensive and you can find a good set of nickel silver ferrules for about 25 bucks. Now if the objective is to make rods as inexpensive as possible for you smaller tapers I would make them with bamboo ferrules. While I have casted both spliced joint and bamboo ferrule rods in a lot of different lengths and line weights and like them I just prefer ferrules. I also like agate stripper guides but not all of my rods have them.

While I hand bind my quads, I still run them through a corded pressure binder with weight to keep the strips tight while wrapping them with string to keep them tightly bound during the drying process. Not to say you can’t keep them tight totally by hand. If you have a copy of Claude Kreider’s book the bamboo fly rod. They have a picture of a pressure winding machine made out wood.
 
Rolf i owe you a huge apology, finally made it to the post office this week, your money is in the mail, and you will have a gift box coming sometime after the first of the month. work has gone nuts all summer rentals were super slow, now that my biggest contender is almost if not completely full( have some very nice lake front apartments, but it's pretty hard to compete with absolutely brand new apartments, top to bottom), the rental market that i am used to has swang back my way. harder than i was expecting, i'm looking at 7 move ins for feb 1st, and have been running like a mad man! from easy move out, minimal cleaning, move the next one in, to a 95 year old tenant's dr just told her she had to go to assisted living, of which nothing in her apartment was ever updated in the last 40 years! so it's gonna be brand new practically everything, and of course a couple from buffalo want it next wednesday! luckily my carpet guys can be here monday, the new kitchen counter tops will be here tues/wed, and hoping the new apliances get here in that time frame... so i have the from now till then to get everything else taken care of! plus the other work and now a hud inspection next tuesday(mainly throwing a few gfci's on place a carbon monoxide detector and check a few hings)! i really do love my job but resurrecting another companies abortion can be hell at times! though the pay is good and a free lake front apartment with heat included isn't bad either.

so with all that being said, Rolf i'm sorry for the delay on my end.

and on the good part, this will keep me busy while i wait for that damn spindle shaft for the drill press to get here. then i can take a few days and really focus on the bamboo rod side of things!

joeE- yeah the spliced ferrules desire is based on cheapness and listening to bob clay on some vid i watched a while ago. and haven't found much on properly making bamboo ferrules, still looking when i have time to look...

and as for a binder i'm still kicking that around, but will most likely build one.

i donno :-( i'm gonna go eat dinner and get back to that damn apartment...
 
DJ, I told you in the beginning.......... NO HURRY! Relax....... :)
 
:roll: well as life goes you have plans, life will rearrange them for you like it or not, have not even put the new drill shaft in yet, life has just had e by the gonads. went from having 9 vacant to having a full house in a month n a half!

but all that has had a hell of a tole on the persona life and goals. now that all that is settled, go the tax return and now it's time to find/buy a new mommy/ family mobile(should have that done this weekend though. really would like to get out n fish a bit, but that's not looking likely...soon enough, soon enough.
 
well after a nice long hiatus the bamboo came back to my mind last night, finally got the drill press back together. 3 hrs last night, and 4 more tonight the holes are all drilled n the forms, 6 stations are tapped and i'm beat. some time here i'll get some cell pics of the progress up.
 
The ferrule weight does contribute to stress and alters the action of the rod, so I think it is important to get a feel for that when starting out
+1 on that.

I built a 7'6" 2-2 Payne 100 from an Anglers Roost blank and like it a lot. After fishing with it a bit I no longer baby it at all, I use it like one of my fiberglass rods.

The first thing I did was build a wood case to keep the rod in - it allowed safe & straight storage of the blank pieces while the build was in progress (& after). Lined it with felt cloth.

But lapping the German Silver ferrules was a serious job that I did not enjoy at all. Nope, not a bit. When I build my next bamboo, I'm just going to use the cheaper chrome plated ferrules - not just because they are already fitted (so they claim), but because they seem lighter.

I really enjoy the Payne, but really wouldn't think of a bamboo rod any longer than it's 7'6" because of the weight factor; ferrule weight is definitely something to consider.
 
Looking forward to those pics DJ! I have to blow the dust off the forms myself and get to work on a rod I've been designing.
It's great to see so many cane rod makers (aspiring and established) on the forum. We really have to consider some sort of get together some day (winter rod maker/builder jam?).
Is anyone planning on going to the Catskill bamboo makers gathering in September?
Mike.
 
the book that kicked me back into gear, given to me by my buddy that we will also be building drift boats with. so hopefully by next fall we will be floating and fishing in all self made gear.


Untitled by dj.berg, on Flickr

88 holes drilled for 22 stations total, 3/4"x3/4" hot rolled steel.


Untitled by dj.berg, on Flickr

44 holes tapped 10-32 with 3/16" guide pins.


Untitled by dj.berg, on Flickr

forms roughed in from stock by a 40 grit sanding wheel.


Untitled by dj.berg, on Flickr

forms finished with a 12" bastard file.


Untitled by dj.berg, on Flickr

next stop, making the triangle file guide and spacing the forms to be filed, then file in the bevel.

Things yet to make before the first rod:

Oven, and binder.

things yet to acquire:

better quality pair of calipers, dial indicator and base, good planing block with an adjustable mouth.

 
Seriously impressive !
 
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