J
JeffK
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2006
- Messages
- 1,312
I've been building rods for 50 years and buying a kit is a good way to start. Check if they have glue, thread and finish so that you can order if you need it. Also, don't forget the rod tube and maybe sock. Hook and Hackle, a PA business, has nice kits as well.
I just wrap the guides with the blank on my lap and the thread in a fly tying bobbin. Need really good light to make sure getting a good wind. These days I use magnifiers as well. When I tried rod wrappers they feel awkward, so I go back to doing it by hand.
I don't use epoxy but use a varnish finish for the wraps. Use Minwax water-based varnish for the color preserver and Birchwood Casey Tru Oil for the finish. Varnish not as polished, but easier to repair/modify.
My best purchase was a rod turner to dry the finish. Used to turn every 15 minutes while watching TV, but was awkward and easy to make mistakes. Rod turner makes it easy and does a better job.
Try finishing the wraps on a dowel or piece of old rod before the final job if you are new. Get the kinks out before working on the rod.
The $1000 rod thread got me thinking about the economics of doing it yourself. Back in the day it was said that you could make a rod for about 1/2 retail. My first rod was a Fenwick rod that was outside my teenage budget but I could make with my lawn cutting funds. Less expensive rods from China and Korea have changed that all around. For example, on the $1000 rod page many people love the Redington Classic rods, but I can't make those rods for the price I can buy one. In general, it is not worth my while to make $300 or less rods and many of them are good rods that I enjoy fishing. Looking at making a Diamondback nymph rod that retails at $525, but the parts would run me at least $400 so I just stayed with the nymph rod I have. At the high end I can make a $1000 rod for $600-$700 (premium rods have premium parts), but then again I don't want to spend $600 for a rod.
I can save money by using parts I have accumulated over the years and being on the lookout for sale or clearance rod blanks - last year's models work just fine. That ends up a lot of work as well, but is OK if I am in the mood to shop around and build a rod, but a drag if I am not.
That leaves building a rod to your needs. For example, needed an 8 wt rod for bonefishing and the TFO BVK rod performed well at a decent price. However, the hardware didn't look saltwater friendly to me so bought the blank and built a rod with the hardware I like for the salt. That rod is my go-to saltwater rod now. Other custom things one can do are make a grip to fit your hand, put the stripping guide right where your reach ends or maybe wrapping the rod in your school colors. I make less rods these days since I can get rods I like to fish at costs around what I can make them for.
I just wrap the guides with the blank on my lap and the thread in a fly tying bobbin. Need really good light to make sure getting a good wind. These days I use magnifiers as well. When I tried rod wrappers they feel awkward, so I go back to doing it by hand.
I don't use epoxy but use a varnish finish for the wraps. Use Minwax water-based varnish for the color preserver and Birchwood Casey Tru Oil for the finish. Varnish not as polished, but easier to repair/modify.
My best purchase was a rod turner to dry the finish. Used to turn every 15 minutes while watching TV, but was awkward and easy to make mistakes. Rod turner makes it easy and does a better job.
Try finishing the wraps on a dowel or piece of old rod before the final job if you are new. Get the kinks out before working on the rod.
The $1000 rod thread got me thinking about the economics of doing it yourself. Back in the day it was said that you could make a rod for about 1/2 retail. My first rod was a Fenwick rod that was outside my teenage budget but I could make with my lawn cutting funds. Less expensive rods from China and Korea have changed that all around. For example, on the $1000 rod page many people love the Redington Classic rods, but I can't make those rods for the price I can buy one. In general, it is not worth my while to make $300 or less rods and many of them are good rods that I enjoy fishing. Looking at making a Diamondback nymph rod that retails at $525, but the parts would run me at least $400 so I just stayed with the nymph rod I have. At the high end I can make a $1000 rod for $600-$700 (premium rods have premium parts), but then again I don't want to spend $600 for a rod.
I can save money by using parts I have accumulated over the years and being on the lookout for sale or clearance rod blanks - last year's models work just fine. That ends up a lot of work as well, but is OK if I am in the mood to shop around and build a rod, but a drag if I am not.
That leaves building a rod to your needs. For example, needed an 8 wt rod for bonefishing and the TFO BVK rod performed well at a decent price. However, the hardware didn't look saltwater friendly to me so bought the blank and built a rod with the hardware I like for the salt. That rod is my go-to saltwater rod now. Other custom things one can do are make a grip to fit your hand, put the stripping guide right where your reach ends or maybe wrapping the rod in your school colors. I make less rods these days since I can get rods I like to fish at costs around what I can make them for.