Korkers buckle on studded sandals - appreciate your advise/opinions

[Mashbill]

I need to wear a studded sandal. I’m interested if anyone has experience with Korkers Casttrax buckle on sandal.

i Have a pair of simms guide 3 wading boots, size 15 with a rubber sole. I’ve tried every type of screw in stud …. And I’m done with all of them. The boot lugg is too recessed , I’ve tried washers to get more stud out & really doesn’t work, studs fall out , I’ve tried screw lock glue, I’ve tried those aluminum disks/ bar ones …. I felt like I was back on a hockey rink. Again …. Done with all of them.

I’ve had good luck with YakTraxx slip on chains. they work just fine … but the chains break pretty quickly with hard use. I’ve been taking a month long solo fishing road trip each May for last couple years …. the yaks work great … but yesterday steelheading on Conneaut Creek …. I see that some of the chains are cracked off. 30 days of hard fishing plus 1 day of steelheading is NOT a lot of time on the stream. These cost $30 bucks on Amazon

the Korkers casttrax look like the real deal. I’ve seen them in flyshops up in Catskills … they are pretty heavy - and I wear a size 15 shoe …. So they might be a load … but my 15 wading boots are already a load. Looks like the carbide studs are replaceable…. But after heavy use - will you actually be able to remove them ?…. And will the ”female” screw porto still be usable Or all smashed up?
looks like these Casttrax cost $100 …. So equal to 3 sets of yaktraxx, so for me … a 3 year “ break even”.

also … I NEVER go out on the stream without my folstaff wading staff .. any stream or creek … anywhere.


as always … any opinions / experience you guys might have with these Korkers Casttraxx … is greatly appreciated by me.

 

[hooker-of-men]

Everything I've ever seen suggests YakTrax are designed primarily for snow and ice, not gravel and rock, so 30 days of hard wading might very well be considered a lot of use. I have experience with them in winter conditions, and I haven't experienced notable failures.

I don't have experience with the Korkers, but the fact that wading is their intended use bodes well. $100 for cleats hurts my soul, though.

 

[Mike]

For clarification, were the YakTrax that you used the standard ones, which I have for ice and sometimes for ice fishing, or were they the “newer” additional type that I think I recall were being advertised for running?

Maybe some surf anglers will respond to you about korkers, as one of their sandals was and maybe still is the go-to for jetty anglers.

 

[PennKev]

i Have a pair of simms guide 3 wading boots, size 15 with a rubber sole. I’ve tried every type of screw in stud …. And I’m done with all of them. The boot lugg is too recessed , I’ve tried washers to get more stud out & really doesn’t work, studs fall out , I’ve tried screw lock glue, I’ve tried those aluminum disks/ bar ones …. I felt like I was back on a hockey rink. Again …. Done with all of them.

Grip Studs have solved my problem of having studs fall out. I don't think I've lost a single one of them on three different pairs of boots so far. The only caveat is that you need a decent number of them, just filling the manufacturers stud stations won't cut it, but I found that to be true when using Simms (and Orvis') own studs also. Also, the carbide points hold up extremely well. I can't believe that no wading boot manufacturer hasn't picked up the idea of the auger style of screw that Grip Studs use. The insistence on sheet metal style screws is crazy after all these years have proven that such threads just don't work in rubber.

Personally, while I think the over-shoe sandal thing might give great traction, I don't see myself screwing around with such a thing. Especially since, as you say, boots are already heavy.

As far as absolute traction is concerned, felt with plenty of studs has no equal IMO. Granted, felt sucks in snowy conditions, and similarly when clogged with mud takes a while to rinse out

 

[albatross]

I had a "crampon" phase too in the past. Durability is why I tried studs again.

Pretty good luck with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JYYN557/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Carbide Screw Tire Studs

 

[Bamboozle]

I need to wear a studded sandal. I’m interested if anyone has experience with Korkers Casttrax buckle on sandal....

Mashbill:

PennKev is correct, Grip Studs won't fall out (although I have broken a few) and they come with a zillion options so the amount of protrusion you want should be attainable if you contact Grip Studs and ask for samples of the studs you want to experiment with.

In regards to Korkers, I don't have the Korkers CastTrax but I do own the Korkers Extreme Ice Cleats which aren't too far removed from the CastTrax...

They beat the ball$ off any ice cleat option I've tried including Yaktraxs, MICROspikes and similar products for grip, spike durability, product durability and ease of getting on & off.

They are also much, much better better than the OTHER Korker ice cleat options with the small plastic "button style" spikes for longevity of the spikes, overall durability and the ease of replacing spikes.

Because I like my Korkers Extreme Ice Cleats so much, if wading sandals are for you, I can't imagine you can go wrong with the Korkers CastTrax...

A word of advice though, if you go the CastTrax route, buy extra spikes when you buy the sandals because replacement spike availability with ALL of Korkers replacement spikes is hit or miss and you won't want to wait for spares when you need them.

One other thing, the Korkers have threaded female recesses for the spikes which shouldn't wear out but ALL spikes are easier to remove if you don't wait for the "hex" shaped head to become a worn down nub of metal.

Good luck and safe wading!!

 

[Mashbill]

Grip Studs have solved my problem of having studs fall out. I don't think I've lost a single one of them on three different pairs of boots so far. The only caveat is that you need a decent number of them, just filling the manufacturers stud stations won't cut it, but I found that to be true when using Simms (and Orvis') own studs also. Also, the carbide points hold up extremely well. I can't believe that no wading boot manufacturer hasn't picked up the idea of the auger style of screw that Grip Studs use. The insistence on sheet metal style screws is crazy after all these years have proven that such threads just don't work in rubber.

Personally, while I think the over-shoe sandal thing might give great traction, I don't see myself screwing around with such a thing. Especially since, as you say, boots are already heavy.

As far as absolute traction is concerned, felt with plenty of studs has no equal IMO. Granted, felt sucks in snowy conditions, and similarly when clogged with mud takes a while to rinse out

Thanks so much PennKev! I’ve never heard of Grip Studs before. I found a fishing article review … and the review raved about them. It said the auger type screw in is the difference maker. And they don’t fall / come out. A couple questions … if you get a minute:

1. What “ protrusion “ length works best on your boots? My Guide 3s seem to have such deep lugs … I need some good points sticking out to grip on the rocks, etc …. Without sticking out too much.

2. How many studs did you find works best on each boot?

3. I assume getting the kit with the installation tool is the best bet … are they difficult to install?

This might be the right answer for me …. Thinking of buckling on those Korkers sandals on my size 15s … conjures up images of Herman Munster.

 

[PennKev]

Thanks so much PennKev! I’ve never heard of Grip Studs before. I found a fishing article review … and the review raved about them. It said the auger type screw in is the difference maker. And they don’t fall / come out. A couple questions … if you get a minute:

1. What “ protrusion “ length works best on your boots? My Guide 3s seem to have such deep lugs … I need some good points sticking out to grip on the rocks, etc …. Without sticking out too much.

2. How many studs did you find works best on each boot?

3. I assume getting the kit with the installation tool is the best bet … are they difficult to install?

This might be the right answer for me …. Thinking of buckling on those Korkers sandals on my size 15s … conjures up images of Herman Munster.

1. I can't answer that for you. You need to measure your tread depth and get the ones that stand a little bit proud of that depth. I believe there's some guidance on the matter on the GS website. If your tread is worn you can screw them a little deeper to make up the difference.

2. I dunno. Definitely all of the ones in a full pack. Like I said, I'm on my third pair of boots using them. I bought a new set for each boot. One of my pairs of boots was trashed so I removed the studs and also put some of those on my current Orvis boots. I try to line the edges of the boot and have a row down the middle as well as a couple in the arch of the sole. Any spot on the sole you use to push off or grip with can use a stud IMO. Again, you're probably going to want to put studs in spots where the manufacturer has not put a convenient place for them

3. Yeah the kit is what you need. They are easier to install than you might think, but they can be a little tricky to center on the exact spot you pick out.

 

[Bamboozle]

Mashbill:

Like I said earlier, look at all of the wading shoe stud options for Grip Studs and ask for samples. That's what I did when I started using them about 10 or more years ago. They sent me one each of several different sizes and I picked the one that worked.

As your soles wear, you can replace taller studs with shorter ones or use a mixture of different types at the same time initially.

If your shoes don't have a stacked heel (and most don't), the most important studs are on the heel and ball of the foot and near the toe. Two or so in the area just in front of the heel will help if your shoes have a wedge heel.

You WILL have to drill a small pilot hole UNLESS you are planning to screw them into existing pre-drilled locations.

You want JUST the carbide tip of the stud to protrude beyond any wading shoe sole so you get the benefit of the traction from the sole AND the stud. If the studs stick out to far, you will be putting a lot of pressure on the studs which can cause failure AND give you sore feet.

In addition, carbide is HARD and will slip on really hard rocks with a high quartz content so you want some bite from the rubber or felt.

Grip studs are pricey, but they work great and no other stud offers so many size options.

 

[Silent Ocelot]

but ALL spikes are easier to remove if you don't wait for the "hex" shaped head to become a worn down nub of metal.

Ya know, I'm gonna check my studs to make sure they aren't too worn.

 

[Nymph-wristed]

From my jetty jockey days, I have lace up Korkers sandals. Great for jetties and rocks in the surf, but not something you would want to wade with all day.

Nothing beats felt and studs in my opinion. I only wear them on places where they are needed, say the Lehigh River or Brodhead, places like that. People seem to think they are outlawed, but they are not in most places. Clean them and let them dry between creeks. Buy two and rotate them if you are really concerned about carrying organisms with you....

 

[Bamboozle]

Ya know, I'm gonna check my studs to make sure they aren't too worn.

Regular hardened steel hex head studs are the worst offenders in regards to wearing to the point of being really hard to remove, but to be honest...

...if they are even close to that point they aren't providing much bite anyway so you should replace them.

 

[Silent Ocelot]

I think mine are hardened steel. Should I make the switch to carbide. Honestly, a lot of stuff on this thread is beyond my comprehension. All I know is that I have studs and that they are Orvis brand if that makes a difference.

 

[Bamboozle]

From my jetty jockey days, I have lace up Korkers sandals. Great for jetties and rocks in the surf, but not something you would want to wade with all day.

Nothing beats felt and studs in my opinion. I only wear them on places where they are needed, say the Lehigh River or Brodhead, places like that. People seem to think they are outlawed, but they are not in most places. Clean them and let them dry between creeks. Buy two and rotate them if you are really concerned about carrying organisms with you....

I'm a felt & stud guy too, except for places that are more mud & silt than rocks, like the Letort.

If you fish mostly or exclusively in PA, they are 100% legal...

I personally think the whole "felt is bad, felt is evil" argument was overblown which may explain why some shoe manufacturers stopped offering felt and then reversed themselves...

 

[Silent Ocelot]

I think it's funny that my foot wear choice is deemed bad and evil by an organization that created the problem of these aquatic invasive species in the first place. Man, that's some funny s***.

 

[Mike]

Nothing beats felt and studs in my opinion. I only wear them on places where they are needed, say the Lehigh River or Brodhead, places like that

Great point. May be practical to save wear and tear on them for where they are really needed depending upon one’s wading skills/stability rather than reducing their effectiveness or wearing them out unnecessarily. Not every stream is a skating rink.

I think it's funny that my foot wear choice is deemed bad and evil by an organization that created the problem of these aquatic invasive species in the first place. Man, that's some funny s***.

What organization was that?

 

[Bamboozle]

I think mine are hardened steel. Should I make the switch to carbide. Honestly, a lot of stuff on this thread is beyond my comprehension. All I know is that I have studs and that they are Orvis brand if that makes a difference.

Carbide studs are great but SOMETIMES softer is better...

If you fish at places where there are really hard, really large rocks, especially rocks with a high quartz content; when the carbide inserts start to wear, you can slide on a rock like you are on ice.

For example, I fish a larger warmwater creek in PA with huge flat rocks. One time when fishing a pair of felts with worn carbide studs AND while carrying a wading staff I slipped on a rock.

In an effort to sacrifice myself to save my rod & reel, I landed on my elbow, smashing it on a rock and luckily not breaking IT instead of my rod.

I fished the rest of the day with blood streaming down my arm but the Winston BIImx & Abel Super 4 survived unscathed!!

Now when I fish this stream, I either wear a pair of plain felt soled shoes or I screw in a brand new set of Goat Heads or inexpensive motorcycle ice racing screws like Kold Kutter or Gold Ice Screws because...

When they are brand new and SHARP, nothing bites better, not even carbide...

That's the reason I have different shoes for different places and I ALWAYS have a quantity of 3 or 4 different kind of studs and a decent dedicated 1/4 nut driver in my gear bag back at the car...

If you want to try carbide and you wear a shoe that accepts a regular hex head stud, you might want to take a look at the Orvis PosiGrip carbide tipped studs. I've been using them for years on some of my wading shoes.

I know Orvis had a quality issue a few years ago with studs breaking, but the most recent reviews indicate to me this issue has gone away so I wouldn't hesitate to buy them.

They ARE pricey but when new, they bite great and last a long time.

 

[Silent Ocelot]

In an effort to sacrifice myself to save my rod & reel, I landed on my elbow, smashing it on a rock and luckily not breaking IT instead of my rod.

I fished the rest of the day with blood streaming down my arm but the Winston BIImx & Abel Super 4 survived unscathed!!

That Abel would probably survive the fall. Those older style Abel reels are tanks. I took a fall last year onto a TR and it sounded bad. Reel wasn't bent but had a little bit of a gouge on the bottom of it. It seemed like it would have sustained a lot more damage given how I fell. If it had been a Lamson it would have been toast, not that those are bad reels, I actually like em', but there's not a lot of metal in them. The rod attached to that reel was a rod I really didn't care for so I would have been more bummed about not being able to fish anymore than actually worrying about the rod. That Winston you had would have been toast. I think you saved the bacon by falling that way. For me when fishing I have my setup in my right hand and a somewhat nice watch on my left wrist so I hope to simply fall on my a** if I do topple over. I'd sacrifice the rod/reel combo before the watch even though the watch has a smaller chance of being damaged during a fall, but the watch is more expensive.

 

[Silent Ocelot]

That's the reason I have different shoes for different places and I ALWAYS have a quantity of 3 or 4 different kind of studs and a decent dedicated 1/4 nut driver in my gear bag back at the car...

I feel like you have the same amount of different studs as there are F1 tire types. That's nuts! I love your attention to detail. You give me vibes of Charles Bronson in The Mechanic with your tedious ways of setting up and the amount of equipment you have.

 

[Bamboozle]

I can't stand scratched-up, beat-up tackle so I enjoy my gear but take really good care of it and try not to do anything stupid...

I once scratched another Winston of mine on a big rock doing something dumb. It bothered me so much I had them build me a new section for the rod.

Bottom line, my tackle comes first, I come second and my watch comes third because my every day watch is a $30 Walmart job. That watch gets scratched-up just from being owned by me so the best watch I own cost me about $150...