Inflatable raft safety / durability questions

dudemanspecial

dudemanspecial

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I am interested in getting a one man inflatable fishing vessel, for example a Watermaster Grizzly or similar product.

While I have many, many hours of boating /canoeing / kayaking experience on both rivers and lakes, I have never used an inflatable raft outside of a pool. I have a few questions for those of you that use them.

1- Is there considerable concern for putting a hole in such a product and becoming stranded on the river or sinking in the middle of a lake?

2- Is it conceivable to be able to repair and inflate the raft in the field if such a situation occurs so you can go on with your adventure, or does damage usually ruin the day?

3- Are these things built like brick shithouses so it would take a nuke to put a hole in them, or do they end up consisting of more patch material than original rubber with some moderate use?

Thanks.
 
Dear dudemanspecial,

Most of the raft type boats you would be interested in are made in the Rockies or on the West Coast where they have a long history of running rivers with inflatable boats. They are designed to absorb minor scrapes and collisions and keep on ticking. Your point # 3 is probably the closest to the truth in that they are well built.

I have a buddy or two that fish out of Aire inflatable rafts and kayaks who live out West and they love them. One guy just finished up fishing the pink salmon run in Seattle Harbor out of an Outcast Commander. He regularly encounters barnacle encrusted piers and pilings while dealing with large powerboats and ocean-going vessels. He's also run many rivers in the States of Washington, Idaho and Oregon. He has had the boat for several years and has had zero issues with it.


Another buddy has a 15- or 20-year-old Aire Inflatable kayak that he uses for weeklong camping and float fishing trips in AZ and NM including the Colorado and San Juan Rivers. He always makes it to the takeout. He keeps saying he'd like to get a newer version because they paddle a little more efficiently, but he can't seem to part with his old boat.

As long as you don't buy a $ 99.00 pool toy, you'd be hard pressed to significantly damage a quality inflatable in a PA river.

Regards,

Tim Murphy :)
 
I run a 3 person cata-raft with inflatable pontoons. One of the pontoons had been previously repaired when I acquired the boat and has held up fine over 5+ years. I do carry materials to patch the boat should I have a failure during an outing, but I've never had to patch. Over the same time-frame I have twice broken an oar and needed to complete my outing with a single oar. This is probably a bigger concern and may warrant carrying a spare.
CataRaft
 
For 1 person rafts in moving water I like Watermaster. Well made, tough and the company stands behind them. The owner is a good guy. Not inexpensive but if you go to a Fly Fishing Show they have special pricing .... typically 20% off.
 
Here is my Hyside from the 90's. Ugliest boat out there when I'm on the water.

Bottom line....Quality rafts LAST!
 

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I run a 3 person cata-raft with inflatable pontoons. One of the pontoons had been previously repaired when I acquired the boat and has held up fine over 5+ years. I do carry materials to patch the boat should I have a failure during an outing, but I've never had to patch. Over the same time-frame I have twice broken an oar and needed to complete my outing with a single oar. This is probably a bigger concern and may warrant carrying a spare.View attachment 1641232268
That looks fun as hell!
 
I have a couple Outcast Fishcat one man pontoons. They are well made and have a tough outer skin. I had one pop when I left it inflated and in hot sun. It was actually just the outer skin that popped. I was able to order repair material from a company out west and it has worked well for years. I do carry patching material in case I ever puncture the inner bladder but it has never happened. I drag them over rocks etc. No problems. Inflatables are great until you get a strong wind blowing up river and you are trying to float down. It can make for a long day as you row or even drag the boat along.
 
I’ve owned and used several different inflatables over many years in lakes and up to class III-IV in white water rivers, and never had any serious issues. However, you need to have a quality made inflatable (Watermaster is one) and you need to take care of how you maintain them, and know how to handle them on the water in order to remain safe - keep in mind that what can inflate can also deflate.

I believe you should always take a repair kit with you and hope you never need it (you can make emergency repairs that will keep you going during your trip if needed), an air pump (which you very well might need after launching in cold water, or to pump it back up after you let air out on a hot day), a PFD - personal flotation device), and an extra oar, depending on where your going, type of water you’ll be on, etc.).
 
just a question re. repair kit
Has anyone used this on a float successfully? I ask because of the time required for the cement to cure. When I go off on a float I look at mine and always conclude what's the use
 
There are various products that you can use to make an emergency repair, including duck tape.

I never had to make an emergency repair, but I did carry an emergency kit with me from time to time. That kit included a rope and pulley, folding saw, and emergency repair materials.

I think you need to take into consideration where you’re going be using your inflatable (how easy would it be to get home if you have a problem, for example, and don’t have the ability to make an emergency repair) as to whether you want to invest in a repair kit to take with you, or not. The same consideration would apply to where you carry a extra oar, in my opinion.
 
Most have multiple air chambers. Losing one won't sink you. It's possible to repair in the field but I've never bothered. I was taught to use duct tape and a butane lighter to make it home. I roll the deflated chamber up and use webbing and carabineers get as much of it out of the water as possible. Then continue somewhat slower.
I've intentionally hit more rocks in the Lehigh then anyone here would believe. For about 2 years, if I was in a raft, I was hitting rocks trying to flip it. I've hit bridges, trees, concrete, logs, etc. I've never put a hole in a raft. Everytime I've lost a chamber it was a leaky valve.
 
Most have multiple air chambers. Losing one won't sink you. It's possible to repair in the field but I've never bothered. I was taught to use duct tape and a butane lighter to make it home. I roll the deflated chamber up and use webbing and carabineers get as much of it out of the water as possible. Then continue somewhat slower.
I've intentionally hit more rocks in the Lehigh then anyone here would believe. For about 2 years, if I was in a raft, I was hitting rocks trying to flip it. I've hit bridges, trees, concrete, logs, etc. I've never put a hole in a raft. Everytime I've lost a chamber it was a leaky valve.
Thank you, that was my thought. My raft has 4 chambers. It's good to know I'm not being foolish. I'll have to find a video about the duct tape and lighter, just out of curiosity. I imagine there are other duct tape alternatives like Gorilla patch tape. I'd worry if this could be removed for a permanent patch. The solvents to remove the tape adhesive probably would do a number on the tube material.
 
I am interested in getting a one man inflatable fishing vessel, for example a Watermaster Grizzly or similar product.

While I have many, many hours of boating /canoeing / kayaking experience on both rivers and lakes, I have never used an inflatable raft outside of a pool. I have a few questions for those of you that use them.

1- Is there considerable concern for putting a hole in such a product and becoming stranded on the river or sinking in the middle of a lake?

2- Is it conceivable to be able to repair and inflate the raft in the field if such a situation occurs so you can go on with your adventure, or does damage usually ruin the day?

3- Are these things built like brick shithouses so it would take a nuke to put a hole in them, or do they end up consisting of more patch material than original rubber with some moderate use?

Thanks.
I fished out of a canoe for 40+ years. When I got into my mid-50s my back decided canoes are not great. In the Summer of 2020 I bought a Flycraft Stealth X I run it on the upper D, N. Branch Susky, local lakes, smaller creek, and in the salt (SW FL, harbors and backwaters). I love it!

Here are my answers to your questions + some addl. commentary.

1- Not "considerable", just reasonable caution. My raft has 5 chambers: 4 quadrants of the main raft + floor (inflatable SUP). No worries about sinking it.

2- In my boat bag I carry the manufacturer's repair kit + Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Tape 4" x 10'. No worries there.

3- They are not bomb-proof, but as stated above, they are VERY durable. Example: at the end of year 1, I saw some exposed threads near the front of both pontoons. These appeared mostly due to some dragging on concrete and asphalt while loading, unloading, etc. I send photos via email to Flycraft. They said I had not worn through layer 1 of 6 (or something like that. They have, essentially, a skid plate of heavy butyl (or something like that. When that wear eventually is a concern, I can get a kit with new material and chemicals to build up more layers as needed. It seems like that's years away from being necessary. The only real concern is hitting something like sunken rebar while going through faster water.

Something that makes sense but I did not consider (shame on me) is Bolye's Law. Basically, your inflatable will seem to deflate as temperatures drop and inflate as they rise. You need to adjust the internal pressure accordingly. For example, let's say you fished early AM in the Summer and air temps were 65. You pump up the bladders to the recommended pressures. You finish your fishing at noon. Air temps are now in the mid-80s. Now your bladders are rock hard (overinflated). No good, too much stress on seems. The inverse is true. So, you deflate each bladder a bit to compensate for the higher air temps and decide to fish into evening, load up, and come home. The next morning it's down to 65 degrees again. Now your boat looks like it's half-deflated. Did you puncture something? Nope, Boyle's Law.

Another thing that I learned is that these things are like leaves on the water when the wind blows.

BTW, I would stay away from Stealthcraft. My buddy had one that developed a problem due to a flaw + poor advice from the owner of Stealthcraft. Long story. Bottom line: They had difficult communication, did a poor job of standing behind their product, and the owner was consistently rude.

Flycraft, on the other hand, had been great to deal with.
 
I fished out of a canoe for 40+ years. When I got into my mid-50s my back decided canoes are not great. In the Summer of 2020 I bought a Flycraft Stealth X I run it on the upper D, N. Branch Susky, local lakes, smaller creek, and in the salt (SW FL, harbors and backwaters). I love it!

Here are my answers to your questions + some addl. commentary.

1- Not "considerable", just reasonable caution. My raft has 5 chambers: 4 quadrants of the main raft + floor (inflatable SUP). No worries about sinking it.

2- In my boat bag I carry the manufacturer's repair kit + Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Tape 4" x 10'. No worries there.

3- They are not bomb-proof, but as stated above, they are VERY durable. Example: at the end of year 1, I saw some exposed threads near the front of both pontoons. These appeared mostly due to some dragging on concrete and asphalt while loading, unloading, etc. I send photos via email to Flycraft. They said I had not worn through layer 1 of 6 (or something like that. They have, essentially, a skid plate of heavy butyl (or something like that. When that wear eventually is a concern, I can get a kit with new material and chemicals to build up more layers as needed. It seems like that's years away from being necessary. The only real concern is hitting something like sunken rebar while going through faster water.

Something that makes sense but I did not consider (shame on me) is Bolye's Law. Basically, your inflatable will seem to deflate as temperatures drop and inflate as they rise. You need to adjust the internal pressure accordingly. For example, let's say you fished early AM in the Summer and air temps were 65. You pump up the bladders to the recommended pressures. You finish your fishing at noon. Air temps are now in the mid-80s. Now your bladders are rock hard (overinflated). No good, too much stress on seems. The inverse is true. So, you deflate each bladder a bit to compensate for the higher air temps and decide to fish into evening, load up, and come home. The next morning it's down to 65 degrees again. Now your boat looks like it's half-deflated. Did you puncture something? Nope, Boyle's Law.

Another thing that I learned is that these things are like leaves on the water when the wind blows.

BTW, I would stay away from Stealthcraft. My buddy had one that developed a problem due to a flaw + poor advice from the owner of Stealthcraft. Long story. Bottom line: They had difficult communication, did a poor job of standing behind their product, and the owner was consistently rude.

Flycraft, on the other hand, had been great to deal with.
I would also add the two times I contacted Flycraft (stealth) they were fast and helpful. I am not the original owner but they did not care. They offered to send parts if I needed them. I've wrote on here before I have been very happy with the raft.
 
Safety-wise, know your limitations physically and understand what the different flow levels due to the rivers. For 20 plus years I've run a scadden one man pontoon with very little issues. Done the Yough, Lehigh and Delaware at ill advised flow levels 😁.

They are tough and will bounce off most things you encounter. Sunken root ball, branches or scrap metal will end your fun quickly. Beside the typical patch kit, UV aquaseal and tear-aid tape would be huge additions. Keep an Emory board, zip ties, duct tape and anything else you think you might need in a little waterproof container.

MT is spot on about the air expansion. Going up and down mountains makes it swell and flatten. ALWAYS take a pump along and keep an eye on pressure. You're better off having a boat that's low on air that you can top off then having one that is firmly pumped up and explodes. Dropping it into cold water will make your air shrink tremendously.

I have a feeling you may rethink your purchase after the first trip or two. Stick with it you'll come up with a system and find the boat is extremely useful.

I have two. If my schedule permits I'll do a float with you and you could try one out before you purchase. It's not exactly what you are looking at but close enough.
 
Here is my Hyside from the 90's. Ugliest boat out there when I'm on the water.

Bottom line....Quality rafts LAST!
I miss my old Hyside. Had a 10 ft bucket version. Couldn't fish out of it, but it provided bombproof transport to some amazing spots. Can't take a driftboat through class V water - ok, you could try...
 
I miss my old Hyside. Had a 10 ft bucket version. Couldn't fish out of it, but it provided bombproof transport to some amazing spots. Can't take a driftboat through class V water - ok, you could try...

What do you mean that you can’t take a drift boat through class V water?


That‘s a section of the Madison River below Ennis Lake. FUN!
 
I'm ok hijacking this thread long enough to tell you that they may have cast iron undercarriage parts. I guess having a high side boat, a strong bow man and a possible desire to sink 10 grand can lead to fun videos.

hoping the OP finds a great inflatable and has some nice tranquil days. 😀
 
On the off chance anyone might be interested....i have an older NRS frame i'd be willing to part with that might work on a smaller sized raft depending on your dimensions and needs/wants.

Its 57.5" wide x 64.5" long. 2 Bench seats, old style NRS siderails and an angler seat bar in the front, old style 6" nrs oar towers. you could use it with 2 bench seats front and back or swap the front bench with the angler seat bar.

I can send pics or more info if someone is interested via PM, thanks
 
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