Indicators - yarn or wool?

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a23fish

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I recently put together several Dorsey yarn indicators that I treated with Camp-Dri, per a tip from someone here or found while reading another forum. Regardless, the Camp-Dri certainly keeps those things floating no matter how many casts and dunkings they seem to get. My only complaint about them is that they are sometimes difficult to adjust, and occasionally, as happened today, the little dental bands simply break and Goodbye yarn indicator.

So I tried some New Zealand wool indicators. I like the ease of use, with the included tool & tubing, and they adjust pretty easily. And you don't seem to need very much to get a very visible indicator. However, I noticed they do tend to get waterlogged after a bit and false casting to dry them out only works for so long.

So if any of you folks use them, which do you prefer? Any tips for improving performance or addressing the issues I encountered with both?
 
Indicators are a necessity on one of the tailwaters I fish. The river is too deep, dangerous, slippery, and wide to fish any other way. So I've tested every single indicator type under the sun there. Here's my thoughts after about a decade of testing on that river.
  • Foam stick on - too small (for my river) and can't support a big drop-shot rig which is required to get down in the fast current.
  • "Balls" of any flavor (Oros, thingamabobber, airlocks etc.) - too much drag when setting the hook at long distances w/ longer leaders/deep dropshot in fast current.
  • New Zealand wool - perfect. Adjust the size to what you want, dab of floatant and fish all day. No drag, floats high, visible across the river, easier to cast (IMO).
New Zealand wool style indicators was a game-changer for me. On that particular river it's the only indicator I'll use. I do run airlocks on client rigs when fishing from the boat, but if it's me fishing for fun it's NZ wool 100% of the time.

That said, on smaller waters I typically employ whatever is most appropriate for the water. Ghostechs or foam sticky indicators on tiny streams if not using dry/dropper. Cork or foam "eggs", airlocks, thingamabobbers, oros or whatever I feel like on medium streams. Though I will say that recently I've been defaulting to smaller NZ wool even on small streams and everything in between. I just like the flexibility of customizing size, color, positioning etc. w/ NZ wool.
 
Same here, thanks for the tip!
 
I'm surprised there's no mention of BioStrike (yet?). That's been my go-to for years. It's a little tough to get the putty pliable in cold weather, but that's easily remedied by keeping the container in a pocket or under your hat.
 
I'm surprised there's no mention of BioStrike (yet?). That's been my go-to for years. It's a little tough to get the putty pliable in cold weather, but that's easily remedied by keeping the container in a pocket or under your hat.
I thought about that after I posted. I used to use it a lot back in the 90s/early 00s. I just don't like that it tends to leave streaks on your leader. You can clean it off, but it's more work. It's also no great (IMO) if you need a larger "blob" of it as the weight tends to counteract the floatability at some point.
 
I'm surprised there's no mention of BioStrike (yet?). That's been my go-to for years. It's a little tough to get the putty pliable in cold weather, but that's easily remedied by keeping the container in a pocket or under your hat.
I've never found this sort of product suitable for anything but creating sighter dots or regulating the depth of very, very small flies. In fact, I've used it more to locate small dries on the water than I have for subsurface fishing.
 
I've used it more to locate small dries on the water than I have for subsurface fishing.
I do the same. I really like to use sighter dots for small flies in low light. I acknowledge that the leader streaks that silverfox noted is a little frustrating. I guess if I'm in a stream where I need to move the indicator around a lot, then it bothers me more. Still... I haven't liked the Christmas ball indicators (that's what I call them when I see them adorning streamside trees) or the foam stick-ons that I have tried in the past. Maybe i'll give the wool a try one of these days.
 
I made some dorsey indicators years ago. As I fished more I began to realize that I only feel that indicator fishing is useful to me in 2 situations.

1. Nymphing deep faster water that is farther away from me that I can tightline. In this case, dorsey indicators are too delicate and I prefer airlock indicators.

2. As a suspension device for nymphing really slow pools. In this case the dorsey works good, but a dry fly works just as well and you can maybe catch a fish on it.

So, I don't even carry the dorsey style anymore. Only airlocks. Never tried the NZ style.
 
I've used plain old "Glo-Bug" yarn treated with Camp-Dri in florescent yellow, florescent orange and regular black (yes black, to see your indicator when the sun is low) for decades.

I attach a short piece of yarn of any thickness or length to my leader using an idiot proof two loop method I learned somewhere about a thousand years ago. My method is similar to the slip knot method BUT to execute it you don't tie any knots and you can easily back-off the connection IF YOU DO IT CORRECTLY to move or remove the yarn and I have never had a piece of yarn slip unless snagged or fall out.

I shown a few people how to do it but have searched in vain many times on the internet for a picture or video of the way I do it with no success.

Most of the other attachments methods I've seen for yarn involve making an permanent indicator with yarn and an O-ring or they are way too fussy or require a tool or something else to make it work.

If there is interest and I continue to be unsuccessful with an Internet search, I'll create a video or at minimum take a couple of step-by-step photos with instructions.
 
I thought about that after I posted. I used to use it a lot back in the 90s/early 00s. I just don't like that it tends to leave streaks on your leader. You can clean it off, but it's more work. It's also no great (IMO) if you need a larger "blob" of it as the weight tends to counteract the floatability at some point.
I'm surprised there's no mention of BioStrike (yet?). That's been my go-to for years. It's a little tough to get the putty pliable in cold weather, but that's easily remedied by keeping the container in a pocket or under your hat.

Lack of floatation is the main downside to Biostrike, IMO. The residue on the leader is inconsequential. It's an aesthetic problem if you care about such things. I don't think the fish care at all.

Benefits:
  • a little goes a looong way! It will last many years. I keep a small amount in a small clamshell that used to have small hooks in it.
  • 2 or 3 tone indicators for varying light conditions
  • indicator dots to better to detect movement of the leader
  • Minimal drag, if applied in small amounts.
I will use NZ indicators in clear, shallow water or slow pools to minimize disturbance.

Dry-Dropper works at least as well for this application. I'd say the main downside is poor depth adjustability.

I use yarn indicators to float moderately heavy flies.

I bought some OROS, but have not given them a proper test drive. Early opinion: I agree about the indy drag issue at distance.

Of course, you could use sighters, even at longer distances, but then you'd be "off label", unless you're floating the sighter.

Most indicators work pretty well in the right situation. Consider water clarity, surface turbulence, flow, depth, the weight of nymphs/streamers, etc. I keep a little of all types listed above with me in a small pocket. That way I can use the best option for a given situation. Just like with weight and depth, adjustments get strikes.
 
If there is interest and I continue to be unsuccessful with an Internet search, I'll create a video or at minimum take a couple of step-by-step photos with instructions.
Sign me up!

Thanks
 
ive used a very small bit of paste floatant rubbed into the wool. I also try to keep the top of the wool clipped flat during fishing, it helps it stay floating.
 
Dorsey and a New Zealand style are basically all I use. They each have benefits and drawbacks. Eventually the rubber band on a Dorsey will cause abrasion and damage on the line. I've been using the Dorsey for years now and it is probably the best. But a small NZ indicator is pretty sweet. Also, the Large size NZ works well, but the synthetic yarn of the dorsey floats more weight than the wool yarn.
 
Wool is the go to for any situation that requires an indicator. Its light enough to allow an overhead cast or several false casts to dry it out. depending on how much you use, you can suspend an astonishing amount of weight under it. A drop or two of loon aquel rubbed on your finger and then applied to wool can help it float for hours. Better yet, If you can get your hands on it, adding a bit of pure lanolin back into the wool can exponentially increase ability to shed water. Tip: There are plenty of wool/sheep festivals around where you can find every color under the sun.. often a lifetime supply for $5-10. Different sheep breeds = different wool qualities. Not all work for our intended purpose.
 
For me it's situational.
- in slower flat water (1 or 2 nymphs) I use a yarn indicator because it lands a softly, it's sensitive and responds quickly. When needed, i use couple false casts and a desicant powder to dry the yarn.
- or I may use a heavy hackled dry fly or foam body dry fly with a dropper
- in heavy or fast water with large stonefly or nymph patterns, I'll use airlock indicator
 
I use the tear drop hard foam style with a slit and held on with a tooth pick. Nothing will ever change that with me unless I'm not using an indicator at all or using a nymph in combo with a dry fly. I just have that system down pat!
 
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