How do I catch brook trout from a really small stream

willdeb

willdeb

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
76
I have been fly fishing this really small stream that I know holds wild brook trout and I can not seem to catch one. I only caught one once with a minnow trap by accident and now I don't trap there any more because I know it hold brook trout now. So I was wondering if I could get some advise for fly fishing really small stream that hold finicky, spooky wild brook trout.

Thanks Will
 
A lot of the leg work for these little steam brookies is actually finding enough room to toss your line, and to do it without spooking the fish.

You can either enter the stream a bit further down and work your way upstream to them, or sometimes, you're forced to be creative.

I've sometimes had to drop a fat stimulator in the current at my feet and feed slack line all the way through the target area.

Also, be very careful about false casting your line over the target...I think the flashing shadows alert the fish to something happening above. This is why I prefer fishing downstream when I can and just feed slack line to the fly. I'll maybe make one false cast just to get some speed on the line tip, but then just let the current do the work for me. My hand always stays in contact with the line so that if I do get a take I can just grab it and take up the slack with the rod tip.

I know I'm going to get burned on here for being a downstream fisher, but I'd rather catch fewer fish and not get seen than to risk busting the whole area because of flashing line or line slap.

Also, my typical rig is a 7'6" 4 wt. with floating line. I quickly learned that it's much, much, much easier to swing a shortened leader than the traditional "rod length" formula. My modified leader goes:

12" 8 lb. test
12" 6 lb. test
12" 4lb. test
16" 2lb. test

For a total leader that's about 4.5 feet in length...on a 7'6" rod. I feel I can control my line so much easier in the tight overhead and bank mountain streams.

Also, learn to cast sideways, and from both left and right. It's a useful tool for all types of fishing!
 
Thanks
 
Also, short rods, mine is 6 1/2 and learn bow and arrow casting. Little WBer's after a rain can be amazing! I tie BH size 12's and brookies hammer em!

Small streams are also much tougher to fish when water is low and clear as all streams are but on bigger streams you have a bit more room for error.
 
When it's cold the fishing can be slow.

Just fish with whatever dry flies you have, once thing warm up a little bit. If you get some afternoons when the air temp is in the 60s or warmer, give it a try.

Afternoons are better than mornings because it's warmer in the afternoon, and the fish are more active.
 
Make sure you use a Gemmie rod. No other rod will suffice.
 
I used to fish tiny streams a lot, but not in years now. Getting less young I guess.

There are two trains of thought on the equipment. My small stream rod used to be a cheap 6 foot 4 weight. I did OK with it. But I eventually gave it to my little brother because he used to catch 3 times as many as me using spinning gear. Like Foxgap, I do prefer the shorter rods for small streams. easier walking at least.

But a friend I used to know used a 9 foot Winston for small streams. You of course aren't really casting most of the time with that, but reaching out and placing the line fly and leader. I can't argue with that.

I have a couple light 7 foot rods now that will be my small stream rods once I get reels and lines for them.

The secret is simple. Don't let the fish see you. If you don't have camo, where drab colors. Move slow and deliberate.

I'm not a fan of fishing down stream. The fish are facing upstream. Also not a good idea if you intend to get your feet wet. But whatever it takes.

When I fish the tiny streams I spend as little time in the water as possible and often don't even wear waders. Use rocks, trees, whatever as cover.

It's more of a chess game. Locate the spot you intend to hit from a distance. Once you locate a likely holding spot, sneak up on it using the trees and rocks as cover. I prefer trees because I'm rather tall. Fat trees.;-) Keep the tree between you and the holding spot.

You may even need to do a little bit of crawling. Reducing the angle is a advantage. Also, try not to cast a shadow on the water.

If you spook the fish, move on. they won't be active again for a little while. Remember it and hit the spot again on the way out. They will often settle down fairly quickly if you do not harass them.

 
I agree with the stealth remarks, and also the water temp issue. I have gone brookie fishing with dry flies several times this year, and that fishing is much slower in 40F than 50F water.

I might fish after a rain later in the year. But this time of year you can get such fast flows after rains that flies blast by fish like Miss Budweiser. More so on steep streams.

So maybe later in the day, and maybe not right after a rain in the spring.

The Orvis Guide to Small Stream Fly Fishing (Tom Rosenbauer) is full of good ideas...
 
FarmerDave wrote:
But a friend I used to know used a 9 foot Winston for small streams. You of course aren't really casting most of the time with that, but reaching out and placing the line fly and leader. I can't argue with that.

I'm not a fan of fishing down stream. The fish are facing upstream. Also not a good idea if you intend to get your feet wet. But whatever it takes.
Yep, it's okay to have longer gear and just use a bass flippin' technique to get the line out.

The only reason I tend to fish downstream is because I want my line to go out further than 20 feet. I might even toss or flip straight out and play the line further downstream.

There's so much creativity necessary for tiny streams. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
 
SBecker wrote:
Make sure you use a Gemmie rod. No other rod will suffice.

Also use red yarn wrapped around hook or maybe a cigarette butt fly.
 
Fishing can be slow when the water is colder than 45°. As the water gets warmer the brookies become much more active, it is typical for a freestone stream to warm during the day, and they can warm as much as 10° when there are no leaves on the trees. Gin clear water is a negative, but as long as the stream has plenty of flow the fish will rise.
I don't like bluebird days as much for fishing as most people do, because during bright sunny days the least little shadow will spook the fish. I prefer partly cloudy days when there is plenty of intermittent sunshine. But that's me. Many others prefer the bright sunny days, flip a coin on that one.
A green inch worm is a good pattern for brookies once you start seeing the worms hanging from trees. They will work earlier during the season too, just not as well. Cloudy water is better than gin clear, but not so cloudy you can't see the bottom.
 
I have fished streams with a foot on each bank, and caught surprisingly big brookies.

They're aggressive and will move across a pool to a fly. They're not picky, so you don't have to have the perfect fly. The perfect drift is not always necessary, so they will tolerate a little drag (within reason). In many senses, they are EASY.

But....

they are very spooky. The key is to not get too close, and to stay low. Obviously this can be difficult in thick brush type situations. But I've belly crawled to get in position before.

Note that generally, you can fish from further away with a dry fly. It's tough in cool water, but by mid May they'll take a dry as well as they take a nymph, if not better, as most of their natural foods come from above. You can float that dry over underwater snag hazards without worry, let the current take it behind rocks, and so forth.

How close you can get depends on water depth, whether there's current on the surface, sun angle, and the like. You get a feel for it after a while. But to start, stay as far away as you can, and stay LOW. Often if I have to get closer than I'd like, I'll approach from behind and walk on my knees or even crawl. The smaller the water, the more important this is.

Bow and arrow casts, snap casts, and the like help out a lot too. I actually mastered the bow and arrow by practicing INSIDE. I got good at hitting the bathtub from the hallway, lol.

While everyone's advice is true about using short rods in tight places, when it gets REALLY tight I actually prefer longer rods sometimes. If you get proficient with a bow and arrow cast, generally speaking, you can throw about 3 times the rod length in fly line, plus leader. The difference between 18 ft cast on a 6 ft rod and 24 ft cast on an 8 ft rod can be significant, and the difference between catching a fish or seeing a dart go under the bank.

I prefer to approach from downstream as you can get a little closer, but that's partly because I got good at casting in tight places. If I couldn't cast at all, I might be relegated to approaching from upstream and feeding out line, as duckfoot does. And to be clear, YES, that does happen when the downstream approach is so freakin clogged up with brush and stuff. And some holes are just so nasty I just skip em altogether and move on to easier water.

Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Truer words were never spoken. Cover water (no more than 2 or 3 casts to a spot and move on, if you didn't get a hit right away, there's no fish there or else you already spooked it). Don't fret if you screw up, we all do, and the nice thing about these streams is that if you screw up a hole, there's another hole very close. The point is to fish as many holes as you can, and with time, you'll screw up a slightly smaller % of them!

Approach each spot like a mini golfer approaches each hole. i.e. think and decide what's gonna work best. Sometimes you gotta be inventive.
 
As far as learning, Joe Humphrey's video "A casting approach to dry fly fishing in tight brush" is a great video that taught me a lot.

Available here:

http://www.flyfishersparadiseonline.com/product_p/dvd09.htm

Here's a snippet available on youtube to give you a taste.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxNS7oIuYnM
 
I don't even bother hitting the tiny brookie streams until after I've filled the freezer with stocked trout.

Kidding. But I do leave those tiny stream until at least May for two reasons.

1. The water temp as so many have said. I have fished tiny freestone streams in March and early April, but rarely catch much if anything.

2. Most of the freezer fillers have gone home by then. I hate drawing attention to those tiny streams. What's the best way to signal "Hey, that stream must have trout!" Park you car near it.

And I usually TRY to park either a fair distance from the stream, or a place where the vehicle will not be visible and walk, for the same reason.

Best dry fly on a small brookie stream? Well, my favorite in NWPA streams would be anything I got in a 14 or 16.;-)
 
Yeah, me too.

Fishing isn't that great on them in winter/early spring. I'd rather not start burning vacation when that vacation would be better used in summer.

Then by mid-spring, the hatches start up and big streams become the focus.

But by mid-late May, the hatches on the big waters have moved to a morning/evening game (weather permitting, of course). That's about when, to me, brookie streams start looking attractive at mid-day.

Then by mid-June I'm all about the brookie streams. June and July are probably their best months for fishing purposes. August-October can be good too after a rain, but otherwise they're often running pretty low to fish their best.

That's one of the nice things about that kind of fishing. The best fishing doesn't coincide with the best times on other types of streams. When big streams are chocolate milk, the little ones are often perfect. When big streams are too warm, the little ones are perfect. When big streams take a mid-day siesta, the little ones are perfect.

And vice versa. As the little streams turn off the big ones turn on.
 
Make sure the colors of your clothing blend into the surroundings.
I would use some type of nymph like a Bead head prince 14 or smaller. Tippet line diameter needs to be extremely small. Since I make my own leader and tippet - the line to the nymph is a 2 lb floro.
when tied there is no overhang after the knot greater than 1/8" and if I get a lazy cast knot (wind knot) within 12" of the nymph I will cut and retie. I will also use a small dry fly as an indicator. Other than that use something that you know works and stick with it for the most part.


 
PPF, are you trying to start an argument again? :lol:
 
haha, yeah. I use 2x-4x, depending on the conditions. I rarely go thinner than 4x for brookies.

It's a fine balance. You wanna be able to pull off small twigs. But you wanna be able to break the line on big branches. :)
 
If all else fails, one or two of these might bring a few brookies to the surface:
m80sign.jpg
 
Back
Top