drews wrote:
Thanks for all the input guys. I am very uneducated about fly lines. The info on taper Wf etc is what I was looking for sorry if I comfused anyone. Guess now all I need is the best deal. Again thanks for the input
You'll notice every post gives you a different answer, too.
If you plan on fishing average streams, creeks, and things called rivers that are probably streams, buy a properly sized floating 5DT line. Without having to cast the running line, but just casting body, it will go easier. Without having to turn that running line to body over, it'll also roll cast easier. When you abuse one end to oblivion at the end of this season or next, flip it, retie it, and fish the clean side.
If, on the other hand, you expect to regularly make 40'+ casts and shooting line on that last cast, a weight forward comes into its own. Because you're going to regularly shoot out a blast of line at the end, the shorter body into the thin "running line" after the head will make for better distance.
As FI said, don't worry about the specifics too much. You will begin to understand the differences after you pick something and begin to see how it functions. Holding other people's rods for a test cast or two will help you better understand what's going on eventually, although realize every rod is different, and every little thing factors into the over all feel (rod length, action, leader, fly or flies).
Orvis Wonderline is perfectly fine, and it was free. When you feel you've got the concepts of what you're doing down, and you think there's a failure somewhere in what you're doing, a different line and its attendant taper change will make differences.
An example is up there, someone posted Rio LT. That's a long, gradual front taper line. Now, I only have a basic idea of what's going on in life, and fishing, but I know that a long front taper will help in pealing off all the unspent energy in a cast, lending to a better presentation. I also know that will be a different stroke, feel, and quite probably a little more work to get better performance out of than a simpler front taper to a line, because the shorter taper will let more energy in the line go into the leader and the fly. At this point, I can see where that sort of long front would pay off for some of my rods, versus being counter productive in others.
Another example is Cortland Sylk. Its got a smaller diameter, and more mass in the line. Its also got a 10' front taper versus a 5.5' front taper. You learn the following facts: The thinner diameter will cut through the air better, and smaller guides (its raison d'etre). A longer front taper will lead to a gentler presentation (and because its denser, probably a little more sinking than a big fat floater). I also know from using it that it illicits a different feel in the rod than a Scientific Anglers GPX, a line designed to be about 50% heavier than the AFTMA recommended line weight. In some places, I consider it to have advantages.
So, taking that into mind, I own a lovely "moderate-fast" 4wt rod. Its a do anything sort of stick. I normally wind it with GPX 4WFF, because I was told that no one buys DT lines anymore. In my normal fishing use, that's fine. The extra weight helps hold the line, the distances I fish are rarely long enough I'm trying to roll or cast, the thinner running line. That works fantastic if I need to put a couple of flies out there, some weight, a bigger streamer, etc. It also presents dry flies with aplomb. But, if I were going to wake up early and fish size 24 tricos, I'd probably leave the GPX at home and opt for the Sylk 4DTF. Why? Longer front taper should result in a gentler presentation, meaning I can see a use for the physical dimension changes in line taper and design.
Does any of it really matter? No. You can go fishing with anything, and make it as complex or as simple as you like.
