fly tying for beginners

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fisherboy3

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tired of buying flies all the time, so i now want to start tying my own. anybody wanna give me a list to possibly tie caddis dries, caddis pupa's, beadhead pheasant tail, hares ear, and other common flies?anythings appreciated. also, whats the best possible bobbin for me to get? my other one keeps ripping my threads, which is a pain in the butt.-kevin
 
sory by list i mean by materials, i have tools already.-tight lines-kevin
 
Get all of the colors of dubbing that you want. For caddis, I like green, tan, olive, brown, and black, but that depends on what color caddis you like to fish.

Get deer hair for the caddis dries. Look for stiff with short, fine tips. You will want a hair stacker, if you don't already have one. I don't bother hackling my deer hair caddis, so I wouldn't bother with it. You can get some hackle if you want, but it's expensive.

For caddis larva, they are as simple as they look. Dub with the appropriate color, rib, and maybe add a turn of peacock herl or dubbing at the bead. Caddis pupa are a cross between the two, and I like to include cdc or antron to give the emerger effect.

For hare's ears, you can either get a hare's mask, or you can get packaged hare's ear dubbing. I prefer the real thing, but the packaged dubbing is handy too. I prefer hareline for that.

Pheasant tails basically require pheasant tail, copper wire, and peacock herl.

So here's the materials I'd get at a bare minimum:

Dubbing various colors, as well as hare's ear hareline dubbing.
Deer Hair (and stacker if needed)
Peacock herl
Cdc or antron, depending on what the patterns you use require
Hare's mask
Pheasant tail
Copper wire

Then get hooks in appropriate sizes. I would get straight shank plain dry fly hooks and use them for both dries and nymphs. Throw in some curved hooks for caddis and scuds. Get beads to fit the hooks.

For any other patterns that you want to tie, look up the recipe. Write down the materials needed, and decide if you want to get them.
 
peak makes a great vise and tool kit
http://www.peakfishing.com/VisePackages.html
 
now how would i know what size copper wire to get?and also, what size beads for around 14-20 hooks?
 
I would get fine copper wire. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Wire-Color-Copper-Small/dp/B00070IPIM

Here is a bead to hook chart.
http://www.arricks.com/tying/beadchart.htm
 
thank you so much man. greatly appreciated. just starting to get the knack of fly tying now, and since im a kid and probably will be fly fishing for the rest of my life, i figured id start tying now.
 
now looking on this website and it says fine or medium size. should i go with the fine?
 
It's cheap. I'd get both. They are both useful. I like the finer stuff for ribbing small nymphs.
 
Your preferences may differ, but the medium ultra wire is a bit big for size 14 nymphs.

My two most used sizes are the small and extra small size.

These guys have all the sizes and colors...
 
I use the medium for bass bugs and ribbing large buggers. You are right though, a newbie might not need it.
 
go to the local craft store and buy your beads and copper or gold wire , pheasant tails , maribou or anything else u can find to save money on ! find someone who shot a deer and get hair for the caddis etc.. good luck and allen fly fishing a sponsor of this site has really good deals on hooks so click on his sponsor link on the side of the page here on pa fly fish , oh and ceramic bobbins really decrease the thread breakage too
 
I'm pro cheapskate craftstore, but spend the money for your first flies on decent materials.

It'll help you figure out what shortcuts you want to make when you learn the good stuff first.

Thread tearing could be your thread thickness, the amount of tension, or quality of thread. Or, the bobbin might suck; my original bobbin was notched, so its possible too. Ceramic bobbins shouldn't tear hair; so try using thicker thread, are you aware of using the right denier? Maybe try 6/0 in lieu of 8/0?

Practice pulling taut but not too tight.

Try not to hit the hook point, too.
 
Oh, and I think gold round tinsel is easier to use than wire, but the really thin wire is more durable. I'd add that to your list.
 
About the Bobbin , I think if you investigate further you'll find that the bobbin is cutting the thread not breaking it from pressure but cutting it at the end of the tube. If you find i'm right , here's how to fix it. Take some sandpaper and roll it up small enough to sand down the sharp edges on the bobbin tube , roll it small enough to fit down into the tube and bend it slightly to sand the inner edge of the bobbin tube. You might have to do this from time to time as the thread will slowly erode the edge making it sharp again. Let us know if this helps , might save you some $$ for use on something else you need.
 
JayL gave you a good list. Was lead wire on the list? I like to weight my nymphs when I tie them rather than using split shot.
Also, if you pick up some goose bigots, I think you may also have everything needed to tie Copper Johns and Prince nymphs. Both catch lots of fish for me.
 
osprey wrote:
About the Bobbin , I think if you investigate further you'll find that the bobbin is cutting the thread not breaking it from pressure but cutting it at the end of the tube. If you find i'm right , here's how to fix it. Take some sandpaper and roll it up small enough to sand down the sharp edges on the bobbin tube , roll it small enough to fit down into the tube and bend it slightly to sand the inner edge of the bobbin tube. You might have to do this from time to time as the thread will slowly erode the edge making it sharp again. Let us know if this helps , might save you some $$ for use on something else you need.

This is good advice IF the bobbin is worn, or poorly finished (rare). Unless you've picked up a used bobbin, I doubt the bobbin is grooved, or has a burr that is cutting the thread.

You'd be surprised at the number of tyers that don't know that most bobbins are adjustable for tension. The typical bobbin (as pictured below) can be adjusted for tension by just pulling the arms apart by the "feet" - the round discs or balls that contact the spool of thread.

Try pulling the feet apart past the width of a spool of thread, then re-insert the spool. This might take a bit of expiramentation to find out how far to "stretch" them apart. You can also increase tension by bending the arms together, and even passing the feet past touching by passing them one in front of the other. Using this, you can correct things if you stretch the legs of the bobbin too far.

A good start, as far as tension goes, is easily tested. Thread the bobbin, and wrap a few inches of thread around your finger. Let the bobbin hang while holding just the thread. The bobbin shouldn't let thread slide through with just the weight of the bobbin, but if you "bounce" it like a yo-yo, it should allow thread to extend out the tip without much effort.

Using this adjustment method should help with the thread cutting, and more thread tension can be added (without adjustment) by just cupping the thread spool between your lower fingers and the palm of your hand as you tie.

H.A.
 

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anybody know the best dubbing assortment i should get?
 
JayL - you'd mentioned tying a hairs ear using dubbing instead of a mask. I've always tied this from a mask as well, but wondered, if you don't have a mask and are using dubbing, what does one use for tail material? I couldn't picture using PT fibers or hackle fibers. I tie mine a bit heavy and bushy. Just checking and always wondered.
 
thanks for all the inputs guys. anyone recomend head cement?is it necessary?
 
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