Converting a 4-section rod into a 3-section rod

GoldFinch

GoldFinch

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State College
Hey all,

I've been using a Redington Path II for the last 3 months, and I've had my 4th tip section break. I've looked for the spare 4th section from Redington and called the local shops, neither had any luck with a 4th section for that specific model. Although they don't have the 4th section for the 4-piece version, they do have the tip section for the 2-piece rod. Due to the section breaking between the bottom guide and the ferrule, a tip replacement kit isn't feasible.

I'm wondering if there are any complete non-starter issues with doing away with the 3rd and 4th sections and replacing them with the top half from the same model 2-piece rod? I would retain the butt and 2nd section of the rod to make up the other half. If there's no non-starter issues with that idea, what are some things I should consider against doing that?

Thanks,
GoldFinch
 
Jeez - when I first read your post I thought you meant you have had 4 tip section breaks in 3 months! I was going to recommend giving up on fly fishing and taking up demolition derby.
I would be a little surprised if the upper section of the 2-piece version mated properly to the lower section. The dimension tolerances are extremely precise and being off only 0.001" or slightly different taper would be noticeable. I don't really know, but I would guess there's little chance it would even work. I definitely recommend you try before you buy if at all possible.
 
Double checked and although there's a lot of Path tips sold out, I wanted to make sure you found this link:


If the specific tip you're looking for is sold out, you're probably better off waiting for it to be re-stocked rather than trying to fit an upper section of a 2 piece to the bototm two sections of a four piece. I can't imagine the odds of that fitting properly and being serviceable.

Besides, for what you might pay for the 2 piece, you can probably pick up another Path. I'm seeing some of them as low as $70 on EBay. I'm sure if you dove deep, you can find them cheaper yet.
 
I'm wondering if there are any complete non-starter issues with doing away with the 3rd and 4th sections and replacing them with the top half from the same model 2-piece rod? I would retain the butt and 2nd section of the rod to make up the other half. If there's no non-starter issues with that idea, what are some things I should consider against doing that?

You shouldn't assume that the middle ferrule area of a four piece rod is the same as the ferrule of the corresponding two piece version. They are likely not. The four piece rod's blank is designed to accommodate 3 ferrules and still achieve the desired action. The 2 piece is obviously designed around one ferrule. The taper and diameter at the ferrules is most likely noticeably different.

Yeah, maybe they are close enough or you could jam them together and pray for the best, but I think that the entire premise of your question is based on incorrect assumptions. I think the most likely outcomes are a poor ferrule fit that results in a rod that falls apart constantly, gets badly stuck together, or a rod that sufferers breakage because of the previously mentioned two problems.
 
Hey all,

I've been using a Redington Path II for the last 3 months, and I've had my 4th tip section break. I've looked for the spare 4th section from Redington and called the local shops, neither had any luck with a 4th section for that specific model. Although they don't have the 4th section for the 4-piece version, they do have the tip section for the 2-piece rod. Due to the section breaking between the bottom guide and the ferrule, a tip replacement kit isn't feasible.

I'm wondering if there are any complete non-starter issues with doing away with the 3rd and 4th sections and replacing them with the top half from the same model 2-piece rod? I would retain the butt and 2nd section of the rod to make up the other half. If there's no non-starter issues with that idea, what are some things I should consider against doing that?

Thanks,
GoldFinch
Finch:

If you like the rod and have something else to use in the interim, I'd take Jeffroey"s advice and wait for a restock. In the interim look for a complete replacement rod on sale and get a top section when and IF they get restocked.

You also might want to ask Redington ARE replacement tips on the way, if so how long is the wait? If the wait is short and you like the rod, buy TWO replacement tips!!

If you are in a bigger hurry and still are considering using the upper half of a two-piece rod as a replacement for the top two sections of a four-piece rod, there are a few things you should ask Redington:

Is the guide placement the same on both versions of the rod?​
Is the ferrule size the same on the center joint of both versions of the rod?​
Is the same mandrel used to create both versions of the rod?​

If the answer to all questions is YES, I wouldn't necessarily poo-poo the idea of creating a Frankenstein three-piece rod although it MAY feel slightly different in action due to one less ferrule, despite what the manufacturers tell you. However, there's a good chance the difference will be so slight you won't feel a thing.

Another option if the answers to all the questions is yes, (albeit a more costly option unless you are QUALIFIED to do it yourself) and the sleeve over ferrules don't have an added female portion (and it appears they don't); the upper half of the two-piece rod tip can be cut to become a 4pc rod tip.

You would just need to make sure you cut it at the same spot creating the overlap the makes the female portion of the ferrule and add a thread wrap where the blank is cut to provide protection against splitting.

Bottom line, if both the 4pc rods and the two pieces rod are made on the same mandrel, this is what happens at the factory so having a competent rod builder do the same thing is so far fetched...

Regardless of what you do, good luck in finding a resolution to your problem.
 
What's wrong with just using a 2-piece rod? No room in the car for a longer rod tube?
 
Thanks everyone for the advice. I won't be creating the franken-rod and will just hold onto the rod until either rod tips come back in stock or I'm tired of moving it from place to place. I've gotten more than my money's worth for what I paid for the combo kit, it's time to give myself a little bit of an upgrade.
 
Yep, time for a new rod. If you get the same model again you will have 3 spare pieces for that rod should those pieces get damaged OR upgrade entirely. It sounds like you like the Path but upon casting a 10ft 7wt model I found it to be quite heavy, heavy to the point that I'd probably counter balance it with a literal pound of reel if it were my own rod. I know that 10ft models are typically heavy but this was heavier than it should have been IMO. Comparatively speaking, casting my Douglas DXF 11ft 4wt doesn't feel heavy and has a foot over that 10ft 7wt model. If you like the Path get it again, but I'd probably take another 9ft 5wt over that.

That being said, I think now is the time to upgrade. My personal favorite in this model of rod is the Orvis Helios H3D 9ft 5wt as it has a bunch of desirable qualities that I really like, such as being able to nymph (it does this ok), long distance dries (something I don't do) and can toss light streamers. Due to the qualities of this rod it is now my choice for the Delaware branches for a rod that can toss dries effectively at range and a rod that can do light streamer work if need be. I liked this rod so much that it will be replacing my G. Loomis 4wt 9ft rod at my next outing, although I suspect I will be lawn casting these rods against each other until the end of time, blindly p****** away money on expensive lines just so SEE how said rods cast said line. I know these rods are fairly expensive but those are what's currently in my rotation. I think in some ways the Asquith exceeds the H3 and I'd personally rather wield a Loomis than an Orvis rod, but have chosen the H3 for the time being. I think it's because the H3 is in a higher line wt and thus has more power. Perhaps and Asquith 5wt would Shrek that H3. I just wanted a rod more capable of light streamer work.

Lately I've been really into Douglas as a whole and I find their pricing quite fair. After getting an Upstream 3wt 8ft 6 piece (travel version) I have been having a blast tossing it around my backyard. It has been on an outing to my new favorite bluegill haunt where I was teaching my roommate how to fly fish. he caught 12 bluegill that day but none of them were the "pounders" we typically try and catch there, although the decline in the big ones has left me fishing a more local pond. I was unable to bag any that night in the small window I allotted myself because I was teaching that day so I can't offer up the way a fish would feel on it. I recently acquired a DXF 11ft 4wt off of here from a nice forum member who I am going out for salmon next week. I expect major break-offs on my part. This rod has really impressed me as it has more power and casts better than what I perceived an 11ft 4wt could (I was expecting a noodle). Although I have not put a trout on it yet, a fault of my own, I have been having fun picking up other species on the creeks and took it to a pond on Monday and was surprised by how well it could cast a popper/dropper rig. I carry this rod with me during this time of the year in the event a friend wishes to fish the Schuylkill and my Hardy 2wt 10'2" gathers dust (for now), a rod that was my favorite in 2022. I've just been very satisfied with these two rods. Perhaps there is something in the Douglas lineup that could suit your needs, say a DXF, Upstream, or Sky-G. I will say the Upstream is more of a specialty rod that an all-rounder. It sounds like you are looking for an all-rounder. The Hardy UL line is on sale now and rods can be had for the low low price of $500. I fish a 2wt 10'2" that I have found to be an exceptionally fine nymphing rod, maybe the best nymph rod I own, but that has been laid aside due to the 4wt 11ft I just got. It's not necessarily that the DXF bests the Hardy it's just that the larger creeks/rivers I am fishing it is more beneficial to use the larger and longer rod. I had a UL 4wt 9'2" that was an incredible dry fly rod. I'd like to cast it alongside my Asquith 4wt to see how they stack up in a shootout. I can't even theorize which one would win. Still kicking myself in the teeth for swapping that beautiful and fine casting rod for an ugly H3, but the H3 got traded for my new (new to me) (that rod ended production before I was fly fishing) steelhead stick so I am still satisfied with the trade.

For pennies more than a Path you could have a Fenwick Aetos or a Taylor (forget the name of their $200 model, think it's the Dyanmix). I'd say get the Dynamix. Matt at Taylor knows a lot about taper design and has produced some real gems, rods used by people fully capable of buying whatever rod they wanted. The Aetos is no slouch either and I had a fun time slinging one around last year at about this time when I had forgotten my fly rod and had to borrow one. The rod performed well and was fairly light with both swing weight and overall weight. It casts a half inch Oros indicator with ease. I won't say I was impressed with it but it was a fun rod to use and a rod I'd have no issues with employing myself. My only gripe is that the new versions are an ugly gray color, a color I see used to often on both rods and cars alike. The dark blue color that they offered in the older model was absolutely stunning, a color I have become so fond of that I decided to get a rod in a similar color (SAGE VT2) after I get my car up to date on inspection.

I really think the higher end Korean rods are going to take the market by force. These are incredibly light weight rods.

So there ya go, three different categories (price-wise) to choose from if you decide to get another rod. If you like the Path then fix it or get another. I am of the personal opinion that most other 9ft 5wts would probably provide a better fishing experience so I laid them out for you.
 
@Silent Ocelot, thanks for laying that out for me. I don't quite have the money to get anything brand new other than stuff from pretty near the bottom of the barrel, but I'll keep that all that in mind as I'm cruising for used gear. I think it's fairly obvious that even the $200 rods are going to cast better than something from a combo kit that was $110. I don't have any particular attachment to the Path other than it was my first fly rod, I was just thinking creatively to try and save a little money.

That said, I think I'm going with an 8ft 5/6 TFO Bug Launcher for now. It checks the important factors for me at this instant: relatively cheap, a relative upgrade from the Path, a mod-fast action, and available at a local shop.
 
Some people like some of the Maxcatch rods. Chinese origin and very inexpensive. Personally they are not for me.
 
@Silent Ocelot, thanks for laying that out for me. I don't quite have the money to get anything brand new other than stuff from pretty near the bottom of the barrel, but I'll keep that all that in mind as I'm cruising for used gear. I think it's fairly obvious that even the $200 rods are going to cast better than something from a combo kit that was $110. I don't have any particular attachment to the Path other than it was my first fly rod, I was just thinking creatively to try and save a little money.

That said, I think I'm going with an 8ft 5/6 TFO Bug Launcher for now. It checks the important factors for me at this instant: relatively cheap, a relative upgrade from the Path, a mod-fast action, and available at a local shop.
Don’t get wrapped around the axle on price, it has very little to no bearing on your or the rods ability to cast. I broke my first fly rod, a Cabelas rod, repaired it my unqualified self, and it still casts and fishes beautifully. You can cast or you can’t, it’s really that simple. TFO‘s are great rods with a great warranty. Bust a section, send it back with 25 bucks and get a new section. they should all be like that.
 
Finch:
Is the same mandrel used to create both versions of the rod?​
Modern rods with integral ferrules simply cannot be made into two and four piece versions using the same mandrels. Stop. Do not pass go.

Adding sleeve ferrules? Eh.....

As has been alluded to, this is a Redington we're discussing. Let's keep it in perspective. They have models that go on sale for little more than the cost of a tank of gas over at Sierra Trading Post

Just get a replacement. I'm a fan of Redington but none have ever struck me as being so good as to jump through these sort of hoops to repair or replace it.
 
Yep, time for a new rod. If you get the same model again you will have 3 spare pieces for that rod should those pieces get damaged OR upgrade entirely. It sounds like you like the Path but upon casting a 10ft 7wt model I found it to be quite heavy, heavy to the point that I'd probably counter balance it with a literal pound of reel if it were my own rod. I know that 10ft models are typically heavy but this was heavier than it should have been IMO. Comparatively speaking, casting my Douglas DXF 11ft 4wt doesn't feel heavy and has a foot over that 10ft 7wt model. If you like the Path get it again, but I'd probably take another 9ft 5wt over that.

That being said, I think now is the time to upgrade. My personal favorite in this model of rod is the Orvis Helios H3D 9ft 5wt as it has a bunch of desirable qualities that I really like, such as being able to nymph (it does this ok), long distance dries (something I don't do) and can toss light streamers. Due to the qualities of this rod it is now my choice for the Delaware branches for a rod that can toss dries effectively at range and a rod that can do light streamer work if need be. I liked this rod so much that it will be replacing my G. Loomis 4wt 9ft rod at my next outing, although I suspect I will be lawn casting these rods against each other until the end of time, blindly p****** away money on expensive lines just so SEE how said rods cast said line. I know these rods are fairly expensive but those are what's currently in my rotation. I think in some ways the Asquith exceeds the H3 and I'd personally rather wield a Loomis than an Orvis rod, but have chosen the H3 for the time being. I think it's because the H3 is in a higher line wt and thus has more power. Perhaps and Asquith 5wt would Shrek that H3. I just wanted a rod more capable of light streamer work.

Lately I've been really into Douglas as a whole and I find their pricing quite fair. After getting an Upstream 3wt 8ft 6 piece (travel version) I have been having a blast tossing it around my backyard. It has been on an outing to my new favorite bluegill haunt where I was teaching my roommate how to fly fish. he caught 12 bluegill that day but none of them were the "pounders" we typically try and catch there, although the decline in the big ones has left me fishing a more local pond. I was unable to bag any that night in the small window I allotted myself because I was teaching that day so I can't offer up the way a fish would feel on it. I recently acquired a DXF 11ft 4wt off of here from a nice forum member who I am going out for salmon next week. I expect major break-offs on my part. This rod has really impressed me as it has more power and casts better than what I perceived an 11ft 4wt could (I was expecting a noodle). Although I have not put a trout on it yet, a fault of my own, I have been having fun picking up other species on the creeks and took it to a pond on Monday and was surprised by how well it could cast a popper/dropper rig. I carry this rod with me during this time of the year in the event a friend wishes to fish the Schuylkill and my Hardy 2wt 10'2" gathers dust (for now), a rod that was my favorite in 2022. I've just been very satisfied with these two rods. Perhaps there is something in the Douglas lineup that could suit your needs, say a DXF, Upstream, or Sky-G. I will say the Upstream is more of a specialty rod that an all-rounder. It sounds like you are looking for an all-rounder. The Hardy UL line is on sale now and rods can be had for the low low price of $500. I fish a 2wt 10'2" that I have found to be an exceptionally fine nymphing rod, maybe the best nymph rod I own, but that has been laid aside due to the 4wt 11ft I just got. It's not necessarily that the DXF bests the Hardy it's just that the larger creeks/rivers I am fishing it is more beneficial to use the larger and longer rod. I had a UL 4wt 9'2" that was an incredible dry fly rod. I'd like to cast it alongside my Asquith 4wt to see how they stack up in a shootout. I can't even theorize which one would win. Still kicking myself in the teeth for swapping that beautiful and fine casting rod for an ugly H3, but the H3 got traded for my new (new to me) (that rod ended production before I was fly fishing) steelhead stick so I am still satisfied with the trade.

For pennies more than a Path you could have a Fenwick Aetos or a Taylor (forget the name of their $200 model, think it's the Dyanmix). I'd say get the Dynamix. Matt at Taylor knows a lot about taper design and has produced some real gems, rods used by people fully capable of buying whatever rod they wanted. The Aetos is no slouch either and I had a fun time slinging one around last year at about this time when I had forgotten my fly rod and had to borrow one. The rod performed well and was fairly light with both swing weight and overall weight. It casts a half inch Oros indicator with ease. I won't say I was impressed with it but it was a fun rod to use and a rod I'd have no issues with employing myself. My only gripe is that the new versions are an ugly gray color, a color I see used to often on both rods and cars alike. The dark blue color that they offered in the older model was absolutely stunning, a color I have become so fond of that I decided to get a rod in a similar color (SAGE VT2) after I get my car up to date on inspection.

I really think the higher end Korean rods are going to take the market by force. These are incredibly light weight rods.

So there ya go, three different categories (price-wise) to choose from if you decide to get another rod. If you like the Path then fix it or get another. I am of the personal opinion that most other 9ft 5wts would probably provide a better fishing experience so I laid them out for you.
Giphy 1
 
Sorry if I missed it but did you ever let us know what Path you were using? Length and line weight?

Like you, I'm a budget rod buyer and I end up speculating on rods I find at good price points. I LOVE the Taylor Dynamix line. I have the 8'6 4wt and the 9' 5WT I picked up for around $175. If you can find one at your price point - and knowing you liked the Path - you won't be disappointed.

Echoing Silent's post but you'll have a hard time beating a Fenwick Aetos at Sierra Trading Post's current asking price of ~$88. Have 4 of them in different line weights as well. They're really good and borderline exceptional at that price point. Jump on that.
 
Big thanks to everyone that mentioned Sierra Trading Post. First time I've heard of them. I will keep them in mind as I look for eventual replacements down the line.
 
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