falcon
Well-known member
I dont have a spreadsheet (good idea) but do have a notebook with the specs and tapers of lines from #4 to #9. In addition I note which line is on each reel and the date it was cleaned.
Choosing a Line
- Thread starter trbillet
- Start date
Bamboozle
Well-known member
I do something similar with fly reels with the exception of recording the last cleaning... 😉
Because I have a preferred static balance point on my rod & reel combos, I have a spreadsheet with the specs (especially the stated empty weight) of every reel I own and what rod it is pared with, making note of the rod length, material it is made from and the line weight I use on that rod. Interestingly enough, I don't bother with the rod weight.
If I buy a new rod, 🤣 it is a simple matter to compare the new rod specs to a similar rod and immediately know what reel will give me my preferred balance. IF I decide to buy a new reel, it is a simple matter to figure out how much that new reel should weigh.
This spreadsheet like the other with line tapers has saved me a LOT of time and money on experiments.
falcon
Well-known member
I too record the same reel info including date of purchase and price. Some reel companies remove reel specs on older models. I try to save catalogs such as Feather Craft and Orvis.
Bamboozle
Well-known member
Make sure you also record the reel's serial number (IF it has one), the year the reel was issued by the manufacturer and the model number for further clarification.
I don't know about the fancy high tech reel makers, but Hardy constantly reintroduces reels that may look the same, be the same diameter and available at the same time from dealers. However they have different model numbers and sometimes slightly different specs.
As an example, the Hardy LRH Lightweight has been re-introduced at least 7 times since the early 2000's but all have different model numbers. Also the last two iterations of the Orvis CFO (2013/2024) have different specs.
In regards to older stuff, I have good luck using the Wayback Machine to find old catalog pages.
Another good source of old info, at least for "classic reels" is the "Reel Papers sticky" on the Fiberglass Flyrodders Classic Reels forum page.
CRB
Well-known member
SciAngler Mastery DT 4wt is and has been my go to for my Winston 8.5' WT. Perhaps the best line in their lineup IMHO.
Bamboozle
Well-known member
falcon
Well-known member
SA DT is really good on my old 8 1/2 ft 5wt IM6 Winston.
JeffP
Well-known member
Your knowledge is amazing.
Yes amazing knowledge here. I am including a photo of a rod I got a few years ago. I got it at the Hershey Cocopacks fundraising auction. I took it to Precision and the guy put a 5 weight Frequency Boost on it. The rod is soft action so I am now wondering why he put a half size up from a 5 on the rod? It seems like that would be overdoing it. Any recommendations for a rod like this? It says on the rod for a 5 weight. Also any knowledge on the source Of the blank would be appreciated. Lastly, any reel recommendations for this rod? I plan to have this as a learning rod for my nephew and future son-in-law. I am a lefty
So I need to buy a right handed reel.
So I need to buy a right handed reel.
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JoeE
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2006
- Messages
- 535
LHR or RHR is a personal decision! If you what to get a way from a 5wt try a 4wt forward. I have no problem throwing a 5wt vs a 4wt. IMO don’t play the game use what you want on the rod and what performs for you and you only. Just my opinion. I’m old school I cast right handed and RHR only. 😄
wildtrout2
Well-known member
I'm a happy camper now.
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wildtrout2
Well-known member
I was surprised, but not concerned, that the RIO DT3F line I just bought didn't have loops at either end. Is this the norm for RIO lines, or just that partictular line?
tomgamber
Well-known member
Not sure about Rio specifically but the DT lines i owned did not.
I am conventional with the fly rod, cast left and reel right. But with the two newbies I plan to train, I will go with the cast right hand, reel left setup. I still have issues with being left-handed and my dad started me hitting right-handed. What was he thinking? And I was not very fast either!
Bamboozle
Well-known member
It is the norm with some DT lines, most notably those that cost less than $100... 😉
As an example, the Cortland 444 Peach DT only has a loop on one end while there are two loops on the $99 dollar Trout Boss DT. The same goes for the $99 Rio Lightline DT.
In regards to a DT with only one loop, I once asked one of the line designers at either Rio or Scientific Anglers (it may have been Bruce Richards at Sci Anglers), why they only had a loop on one end of a particular double taper. The reply was, "because our customers tell us they never change ends on a DT." 😵
Of course I called BS and told him it was because they WANTED customers to not change ends on a DT or they wanted us to buy more expensive lines. Regardless one loop IS missing on some DT lines while on others a 2nd loop is a more recent addition and of course there are lines with zero.
I like welded loops and I DO flip ends on my DT's. Fortunately for me the line I use most (Scientific Anglers Mastery DT) now has two loops. In the past I just made my own welded loop (using heat shrink tubing to melt & fuse the line coating) or I used a braided leader loop.
Enjoy your new line!
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wildtrout2
Well-known member
The ability to use both ends of a DT line is one of the very reasons I use a DT line. Two for one if you will. The BS that they only put a loop on one end is because customers only use one end, is just that, BS.
