Where to get a broken rod fixed?

R

rrt

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Nov 20, 2006
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On Saturday, I tripped and snapped the tip section of a Cabela's LST 865-4 in half. Cabela's does not have a rod repair service.

What I really need is another tip for this broken section.

I am looking for suggestions.

(I recently broke a Sage, too, but they have their own service, and they got me a new tip quickly -- for a "small" fee.)

Thanks.
 
Rich, I haven't repaired any graphite rods, so I can't help you.

Did you contact Cabela's customer service to see if they would sell you a new tip section? It might be worth a shot.

1-800-753-3218
 
rrt wrote:
On Saturday, I tripped and snapped the tip section of a Cabela's LST 865-4 in half. Cabela's does not have a rod repair service.

What I really need is another tip for this broken section.

I am looking for suggestions.

(I recently broke a Sage, too, but they have their own service, and they got me a new tip quickly -- for a "small" fee.)

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Wait...

Your post is a little bit confusing. You said you broke tip section in half, but then said you just need another tip. I assumed you meant you needed a new tip section. I have some tips laying around from when I worked on bamboo rods. If that is all you need, I would be happy to send you one and if I have the right size. Not sure I'd have one small enough.

Let me know.
 
Thanks, Dave. I broke the graphite tip section in half.

Cabela's told me when I contacted them that they didn't have a repair service and that they couldn't sell me just a tip. I think I'm going to have to live with the broken rod, darn it.

Thanks.

Rich
 
Any rod builder should be able to fix it. You could ask Sandfly or Brad from Potter on the message board..
 
I read somewhere that St. Croix manufactures Cabela's higher-end rods. Might be worth contacting them.
 
Sorry to hear that this happened. I've cast and owned some of their rods that I've absolutely loved. When one broke and they couldn't repair or replace it (even for a fee), that was where I called it quits with them. I got offered partial clearance price credit for a rod I paid full price for. That's why I'd spend an extra $20 -$300 to get a bigger name rod company with repair / replacement services. Their FT+ model rod was fantastic.....and brittle.

Like someone mentioned, if you can figure out the manufacturer, you might be able to contact them directly. I'm 99% sure all of their models (but 2) are Korean blanks so you're probably SOL.
 
I've broken many cabelas rods and brought it back and they gave me a brand new rod. That's weird
 
I have the same opinion as krayfish2. I broke the tip section on my 8wt switch rod from Cabelas. Really liked this rod, but with the lousey customer service on fly rods, I'll never buy another one from them. I did buy this one from the bargain cave, but they didn't know that when they turned me down for replacement of the tip section. I keep watching the net for one to come up for sale.......On the opposite side, my son broke a Loomis one day and the next day broke my Orvis. Both got replaced for a low fee.
 
If the break was clean, a stent can be used to join the two sections. A competent rod builder should be able to do this for you. Being in the tip it might affect the action a little but better than having no rod.
 
Sal wrote;

If the break was clean, a stent can be used to join the two sections. A competent rod builder should be able to do this for you. Being in the tip it might affect the action a little but better than having no rod.
Click to expand...

This is correct. It is much easier, in my opinion, to repair a graphite rod that has had a clean break rather than one that is splintered but is still attached to the other piece of the rod.

All you need is a section of graphite blank having the OD the same size as the ID taper of the broken rod. Clean up the ends of the broken tip sections square with some emery paper. Then measure the ID of the broken section. You will need a dial venier caliper to do this. Maybe you can borrow one from a machinist buddy. They aren't cheap.

After you have ascertained the inside diameter of the broken section you need to locate, on your blank section, the same size outside diameter. Mark the area with a china marker. Carefully cut out a section of the spare blank about 3" long.

Get some 5 minute epoxy and mix up a batch. Apply some to one end of the plug, insert the plug into the broken tip. Let it cure and dry. Apply some more epoxy to the other end of the plug, insert the male plug end into the female broken end. Make sure you line up the guides so they are nice and straight. Let the repair cure and set up overnight. If you did it right it will be very hard to ever see where it was repaired and the rod will function as good as before the break.
 
Yeah... So I've fixed a few rods in the manner described above. Actually, come to think of it, i fixed them all for the same person.

It works.







Personally, I'd just junk the rod and get a new'un.
 
Wouldn't a slower drying eboxy work better?

My understanding is that the faster the drying time, the less flexible (and therefore more brittle) the glue is.

But then, maybe I am thinking too much. if it is a tight fit, maybe it doesn't matter. Especially since there isn't much flex per inch.

I'm just curious. Haven't worked with graphite, but have worked with bamboo and I sometimes overkill. I had some very slow drying epoxy for gluing that.
 
I am mechanically challenged and am lucky to be able to patch holes in fishing boots. (I had to do that yesterday -- barbed wire.) No way could I splice the broken tip back together. Thankfully, I have a number of other rods.

Anyhow, I decided to send the whole rod back to Cabela's Returns section, hoping for a new tip section. But, as someone noted above, I'm probably SOL but still figured it was worth a try.
 
I did a fix on a graphite rod nearly 20 years ago using a small section of a broken twist drill as a splint & glued up with the slow drying epoxy used for golf club head attachment. It is still good all these years later.
 
Was it covered under a Cabela's Warranty? I broke an LSi this spring. I sent it back with the Warranty card (Lifetime on that model) and Cabela's quickly sent back a brand new replacement.
 
mjones32 wrote:
I did a fix on a graphite rod nearly 20 years ago using a small section of a broken twist drill as a splint & glued up with the slow drying epoxy used for golf club head attachment. It is still good all these years later.
Click to expand...

I was kind of thinking along those lines. Should be able to use about anything that either doesn't bend, or at least springs back.

When I was a kid, I spliced a fiberglass spinning rod using a nail which I ground the head off.

I was so proud ... until I used it. Nails bend. ;-)
 
Wouldn't a slower drying eboxy work better?
Click to expand...

Maybe but I wouldn't want the sections to possibly turn during the curing process and have the guides out of line. Incidentally I just broke the tip of my Gatti 9' #4 3 piece. I snapped the tip section clean off about 18" down from the tip top. I also have the broken tip of a Gatti 8' #5 sitting in my closet for the last five years. Kind of lucky to have so many rods that a couple can sit around for years waiting to be repaired. This rain will give me a chance to repair both of them.
 
I have a Renegade flyrod that was an 8'6" to start. I have customized it twice over the past 6 years.

You can buy the tips (they vary in size) at a fly shop. Use the same rod glue that you would use to fix Spinner/Bait Caster/Spin Casting rods.
 
Repairing two tips today. Will try and post pictures of before, during, and after the repair. I finished the repair of the Gatti 8' #5 2 piece. It broke clean right in the middle of one of the snake guides so I had to remove the guide to do the repair. I was able to rotate the blank to line up the exact spot it broke, there was a little divot on one end and the corresponding projection on the other piece.

Now I'm working on the Gatti 9' #4 3 piece. The plug is made and has been inserted into the section closest to the ferrule and it is only .078" inside diameter. I made both plugs about 2.5" long. I wanted enough engagement to insure the repair wouldn't fracture at the repair joint.
 
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