steveo
Member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2006
- Messages
- 369
Take a class. Many TU chapters offer them at little or no cost. It will kick start your learning big time.
Fish Sticks
Well-known member
I started fly tying when I was ten years old in 1997. Youtube did not exist. I had books and no formal training or classes. I started tying glow bugs, wooly worms, and other simple flies.
Things I wish id known is if you don’t have the right thread strength or diameter and don’t know any better you will sit there wondering why you can’t imitate flies in youtube videos or your head of the fly is crowded/falling apart or why you thread keeps breaking when spinning deerhair or its loose and falls apart.
Learn the VERY basics first before worrying about patterns. How to adjust the vise jaws to hold hooks firmly, make tight base wraps, know how to spin the thread clockwise to make it jump forward on the hook while wrapping and how to spin counter clockwise to jump backwards while wrapping. Know the advantages of flat unwound thread vs. spun/corded thread. Know thread types(nano silk by seimper fly is going to be best all around thread to start because of high tensile strength yet thin diameter).
Know material differences. “Hackle” can be like 50 different kinds of feathers each with slightly different properties as far as stiffness of fiber, quill, and function in the fly for example. Nothing slows a novice down like poor material substitutes for whats being used in your video or tutorial. You can substitute don’t get me wrong but you want to march the proportions/properties of the material in most cases.
Get foam from craft stores you can also het wool to put in coffee grinder and make your own dubbing. Many things you can get at a craft store to soften financial blow of getting started. My strongest advice is rather than spending 20-30-40$ on a vice you will need to replace a ton of times get a renzetti traveler that will last you forever. Nothing slows you down like cheap
Vices that require retightening of the jaws or that break hooks because of craftsmanship issues on the jaw finishes. The stand alone base instead of clamping to a table is a must for me and you can place on a shoe box or something to elevate fly to just under eye level.
Get a good high powered aimablr light its a must
Holding small materials your wrapping with hackle pliers is a life saver.
Tiny dab of Super glue with a slim applicator is good to hit a knot after a whip tie finish and soak into thread better than head cement.
Have wire cutters so you don’t dull your scissors on wire, plastic ect. You need them sharp or you won’t make fine cuts well.
Start with a mop fly, san juan worm,
or walts worm their simple.
I tie anywhere from 5-12 hours a week on average and if you have tying questions feel free to reach out.
Things I wish id known is if you don’t have the right thread strength or diameter and don’t know any better you will sit there wondering why you can’t imitate flies in youtube videos or your head of the fly is crowded/falling apart or why you thread keeps breaking when spinning deerhair or its loose and falls apart.
Learn the VERY basics first before worrying about patterns. How to adjust the vise jaws to hold hooks firmly, make tight base wraps, know how to spin the thread clockwise to make it jump forward on the hook while wrapping and how to spin counter clockwise to jump backwards while wrapping. Know the advantages of flat unwound thread vs. spun/corded thread. Know thread types(nano silk by seimper fly is going to be best all around thread to start because of high tensile strength yet thin diameter).
Know material differences. “Hackle” can be like 50 different kinds of feathers each with slightly different properties as far as stiffness of fiber, quill, and function in the fly for example. Nothing slows a novice down like poor material substitutes for whats being used in your video or tutorial. You can substitute don’t get me wrong but you want to march the proportions/properties of the material in most cases.
Get foam from craft stores you can also het wool to put in coffee grinder and make your own dubbing. Many things you can get at a craft store to soften financial blow of getting started. My strongest advice is rather than spending 20-30-40$ on a vice you will need to replace a ton of times get a renzetti traveler that will last you forever. Nothing slows you down like cheap
Vices that require retightening of the jaws or that break hooks because of craftsmanship issues on the jaw finishes. The stand alone base instead of clamping to a table is a must for me and you can place on a shoe box or something to elevate fly to just under eye level.
Get a good high powered aimablr light its a must
Holding small materials your wrapping with hackle pliers is a life saver.
Tiny dab of Super glue with a slim applicator is good to hit a knot after a whip tie finish and soak into thread better than head cement.
Have wire cutters so you don’t dull your scissors on wire, plastic ect. You need them sharp or you won’t make fine cuts well.
Start with a mop fly, san juan worm,
or walts worm their simple.
I tie anywhere from 5-12 hours a week on average and if you have tying questions feel free to reach out.
W
WV waver
Member
As far as a vise, Griffin Odyssey Spyder rotary vise w table clamp and bobbin holder can be had for 79.99 off of the big auction site on the web from avid max outfitters. I bought 2 different vises before this one. One from Risen & one from Colorado something or other. Both were fair and functioned ok, but I spent more for those than the Griffin. When set properly, hooks won’t slip in this one & rotary function makes hackle & palmering easy. Wish I had started with this one.
JimNovo
Well-known member
Hi Skeeter.
I hope you had a good year fishing. I’m glad you want to start tying….although I’d still be happy to tie you flies!!
So I started with a Cabellas travel kit. Vise and all of the basic tools. My first upgrade was a better ceramic bobbin. It kept the thread from breaking. Then I went for a better set of scissors. It really helped with clean cuts of thread. Finally I decided to upgrade my vise to a Peak Rotary because I tied so many flies that I wore out the vise grips. Equipment-wise, this is where I am today.
As for materials, I’d advise you to pick 8-10 patterns you really like and then buy those supplies. I started with a black zebra midge (hook, bead, black UTC70 thread, silver wire). Expanding to pheasant tails, hares ears and Walts worms only required new dubbing, some peacock herl, a pheasant tail and a different hook. Let the YouTube videos from Tightlines or others guide you….but don’t go crazy….yet! Feathers, CDC, dubbing colors and all of the other hook shapes and types can come later.
Nothing beats catching a trout on a fly you tied!!!
I hope you had a good year fishing. I’m glad you want to start tying….although I’d still be happy to tie you flies!!
So I started with a Cabellas travel kit. Vise and all of the basic tools. My first upgrade was a better ceramic bobbin. It kept the thread from breaking. Then I went for a better set of scissors. It really helped with clean cuts of thread. Finally I decided to upgrade my vise to a Peak Rotary because I tied so many flies that I wore out the vise grips. Equipment-wise, this is where I am today.
As for materials, I’d advise you to pick 8-10 patterns you really like and then buy those supplies. I started with a black zebra midge (hook, bead, black UTC70 thread, silver wire). Expanding to pheasant tails, hares ears and Walts worms only required new dubbing, some peacock herl, a pheasant tail and a different hook. Let the YouTube videos from Tightlines or others guide you….but don’t go crazy….yet! Feathers, CDC, dubbing colors and all of the other hook shapes and types can come later.
Nothing beats catching a trout on a fly you tied!!!
P
poopdeck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2013
- Messages
- 2,414
All good stuff. Another thing I did when I started, and still do at times, is I buy one fly that I want to tie and I use it as a model for the ones I tie. It’s hard for me to judge proportion from videos so I use a model to help me with that.
PennKev
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,299
Youtube really opened my eyes when it came to finding better/easier tying techniques. Parachutes, spinning deer hair, etc. etc. all became easier after youtube really took off.
Holy crap. In comparison, some of the methods illustrated in those old books and magazines had to be a mean prank.
beadhead2
Active member
Skeeter
I am selling all my fly tying equipment ,if there is anything you are interested in let me know
I don't have a vise, I sold it
I am selling all my fly tying equipment ,if there is anything you are interested in let me know
I don't have a vise, I sold it
RCFetter
Well-known member
Fly Tying Books for Beginners
Two very popular books for beginners are Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying and The Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying. Details on each of the books are outlined below:
Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying By Charlie Craven - 2008
Hardcover # of pages: 280
Amazon Price - $45.00:
# of fly patterns including variations: 89
Publisher’s description
A series of practical lessons, Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying is a modern course in fly-tying fundamentals covering the essential tools, materials, and techniques needed to tie a wide range of popular flies. With 1,000 photos, Craven covers cutting-edge techniques for the more tried-and-true classics, such as the Royal Wulff, Adams, and Hare's Ear, and shares innovative approaches to current patterns such as the Brassie, RS2, and Copper John. This book is built on Craven's successful fly-tying classes, which start out with simple flies and work toward more complex patterns, all the while teaching techniques and introducing materials by tying popular patterns that catch fish in Eastern and Western streams.
The Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying By Ted Leeson and Jim Schollneyer
Hardcover Spiral # of pages: 189
Amazon Price - $45.00 - $60.00
# of fly patterns including variations: 111
Publisher’s Description: The first 25 pages of this oversized, hardcover spiral-bound book are filled with fly-tying techniques and the last 164 pages are cut horizontally across the page. The top half of the page shows tying steps for each patterns and includes references to techniques that are explained step by step in the bottom half.
Based on an initial impression, the Benchside Introduction appears to be the better book. It could be classified as a beginner to intermediate guide but Craven’s book is more of a beginner’s guide. I don’t think one is all that better than the other.
Two very popular books for beginners are Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying and The Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying. Details on each of the books are outlined below:
Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying By Charlie Craven - 2008
Hardcover # of pages: 280
Amazon Price - $45.00:
# of fly patterns including variations: 89
Publisher’s description
A series of practical lessons, Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying is a modern course in fly-tying fundamentals covering the essential tools, materials, and techniques needed to tie a wide range of popular flies. With 1,000 photos, Craven covers cutting-edge techniques for the more tried-and-true classics, such as the Royal Wulff, Adams, and Hare's Ear, and shares innovative approaches to current patterns such as the Brassie, RS2, and Copper John. This book is built on Craven's successful fly-tying classes, which start out with simple flies and work toward more complex patterns, all the while teaching techniques and introducing materials by tying popular patterns that catch fish in Eastern and Western streams.
The Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying By Ted Leeson and Jim Schollneyer
Hardcover Spiral # of pages: 189
Amazon Price - $45.00 - $60.00
# of fly patterns including variations: 111
Publisher’s Description: The first 25 pages of this oversized, hardcover spiral-bound book are filled with fly-tying techniques and the last 164 pages are cut horizontally across the page. The top half of the page shows tying steps for each patterns and includes references to techniques that are explained step by step in the bottom half.
Based on an initial impression, the Benchside Introduction appears to be the better book. It could be classified as a beginner to intermediate guide but Craven’s book is more of a beginner’s guide. I don’t think one is all that better than the other.
S
skeeter bite
Member
I might be but first I have to find out what I need to get started. I'll get back to you on this.
beadhead2
Active member
You will need
1-vise
2-hooks
3-tools
4-thread
5-materials for the flies you want to tie
J
JeffK
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2006
- Messages
- 1,300
All good advise. I tied with a Thompson A vise knock-off for 40 years before upgrading. Was a PITA to use and needed to replace parts all the time, don't know what kept me from getting a better one sooner.
Good scissors are key and make tying easier. First part of my tools I upgraded. Like bow type embroidery scissors.
Learning to identify good materials is key. Poor materials make tying a nightmare. Fortunately, many manufactured items like wire, thread, and dubbing mixes from the reliable suppliers are pretty consistent. Hard to get burned. The problems come up with natural materials like feathers, raw fur, peacock herl, and deer/elk hair. There is a big variety in these. Trying to wind a hackle with a poor stem or making a Comparadun with the wrong deer hair will be no fun and make you think twice about fly tying.
Learning from a person is better IMHO, and most tiers are friendly and willing to help. However, the You Tube videos today are an incredible resource. The two books mentioned are good, but I find the instructions in many books hard to follow. Need ones with lots and lots of illustrations. Nothing like seeing someone do it.
Good scissors are key and make tying easier. First part of my tools I upgraded. Like bow type embroidery scissors.
Learning to identify good materials is key. Poor materials make tying a nightmare. Fortunately, many manufactured items like wire, thread, and dubbing mixes from the reliable suppliers are pretty consistent. Hard to get burned. The problems come up with natural materials like feathers, raw fur, peacock herl, and deer/elk hair. There is a big variety in these. Trying to wind a hackle with a poor stem or making a Comparadun with the wrong deer hair will be no fun and make you think twice about fly tying.
Learning from a person is better IMHO, and most tiers are friendly and willing to help. However, the You Tube videos today are an incredible resource. The two books mentioned are good, but I find the instructions in many books hard to follow. Need ones with lots and lots of illustrations. Nothing like seeing someone do it.
MJMFlyfisher
Well-known member
One thing I don't think I saw mentioned.....if it was I apologize.
Don't get overwhelmed by thinking you need everything to tie everything at once!
Go hatch by hatch, need by need ,as you see them coming up, and acquire just what you need to learn and tie a couple staple flies for each one.
For example:
If you know you are going to most likely encountering Blue Winged Olives in March..... get just what you need for a couple staples for that hatch.
Some #18 nymph and dry hooks
Some pheasant tail for nymphs
Some dubbing , deer hair, and some tailing material to tie something like Comparaduns or Sparkle duns.
You'll be able to wrap your head around filling a single need vs worrying about all those empty slots and compartments ,and then you can extend what you learned from the first flies when the next hatch is coming up......Here come the sulfurs so add some #16 hooks, a different color dubbing and build some new stuff!....maybe now add a little hackle or CDC to your assortment to try a new pattern. So on and so on.
It literally takes YEARS and YEARS to fine tune your needs and materials. Fine tuning your stuff is a marathon.
Don't feel like you need everything at once!!
Buy a good solid vise to start..... a simple rotary like a Renzetti Traveller will last you and your needs forever.
And then just nibble away, season by season, hatch by hatch, trip by trip, need by need, one at a time and enjoy the little victories when you start to realize you're more prepared to catch some fish on your own flies than you thought!
Don't get overwhelmed by thinking you need everything to tie everything at once!
Go hatch by hatch, need by need ,as you see them coming up, and acquire just what you need to learn and tie a couple staple flies for each one.
For example:
If you know you are going to most likely encountering Blue Winged Olives in March..... get just what you need for a couple staples for that hatch.
Some #18 nymph and dry hooks
Some pheasant tail for nymphs
Some dubbing , deer hair, and some tailing material to tie something like Comparaduns or Sparkle duns.
You'll be able to wrap your head around filling a single need vs worrying about all those empty slots and compartments ,and then you can extend what you learned from the first flies when the next hatch is coming up......Here come the sulfurs so add some #16 hooks, a different color dubbing and build some new stuff!....maybe now add a little hackle or CDC to your assortment to try a new pattern. So on and so on.
It literally takes YEARS and YEARS to fine tune your needs and materials. Fine tuning your stuff is a marathon.
Don't feel like you need everything at once!!
Buy a good solid vise to start..... a simple rotary like a Renzetti Traveller will last you and your needs forever.
And then just nibble away, season by season, hatch by hatch, trip by trip, need by need, one at a time and enjoy the little victories when you start to realize you're more prepared to catch some fish on your own flies than you thought!
Last edited:
WWKimba
Active member
There are 3 good ways to learn how to tie flies:
1) Take a class and there are free classes in many areas. You just have to find them. Try to Google "fly tying lessons" near your ZIP. Look to outdoor/fishing stores like Cabelas, Bass Pro, and don't forget to check out your local shops as well. This is a good time of year to check these out.
2) Tie with/alongside of an experienced tyer. One, you can tie any pattern and don't have to stick to a lesson plan, 2) You get to make a friend or improve your friendship,
3) Participate in fly swaps. Most hosts keep their swaps open to all level tyers and they can help you choose a pattern, give some hint s on tying your pattern, and give you feedback on the flies you send in. Just check with your swap host on what help you are looking for and they can let you know what they can provide.
The BIG advantage of each of these three methods is that you get feedback on your tying - something a book or video usually doesn't provide.
I know this was mentioned before but it is important enough to repeat here - DO NOT GET OVERWHELMED! You DO NOT need every tool in the shed, every fly tying material ever sold nor every fly pattern that exists! I've been tying for over 50 years now and live by the credo that "He who dies with the most toys wins!" and I'm not even close to those "goals".
First, start small. What fish do you fish for? Do you prefer to fish hatches (dry flies), top water bugs, streamers (bait fish imitations), nymphs? This will get you started on what materials you need. To many new tyers ask the question of "What fly should I tie first?" An answer to that does NOT exist! I could suggest a nice trout fly pattern but that would do you little good if you fish for saltwater species!
One last comment and I'll give my soapbox to someone else - HAVE FUN! I hope that you have as much fun as I've had over the years, otherwise it's really not worth your time! Feel free to join in one of my swaps or simply drop me a PM and I'll be most happy to help you out.
Kim
1) Take a class and there are free classes in many areas. You just have to find them. Try to Google "fly tying lessons" near your ZIP. Look to outdoor/fishing stores like Cabelas, Bass Pro, and don't forget to check out your local shops as well. This is a good time of year to check these out.
2) Tie with/alongside of an experienced tyer. One, you can tie any pattern and don't have to stick to a lesson plan, 2) You get to make a friend or improve your friendship,
3) Participate in fly swaps. Most hosts keep their swaps open to all level tyers and they can help you choose a pattern, give some hint s on tying your pattern, and give you feedback on the flies you send in. Just check with your swap host on what help you are looking for and they can let you know what they can provide.
The BIG advantage of each of these three methods is that you get feedback on your tying - something a book or video usually doesn't provide.
I know this was mentioned before but it is important enough to repeat here - DO NOT GET OVERWHELMED! You DO NOT need every tool in the shed, every fly tying material ever sold nor every fly pattern that exists! I've been tying for over 50 years now and live by the credo that "He who dies with the most toys wins!" and I'm not even close to those "goals".
First, start small. What fish do you fish for? Do you prefer to fish hatches (dry flies), top water bugs, streamers (bait fish imitations), nymphs? This will get you started on what materials you need. To many new tyers ask the question of "What fly should I tie first?" An answer to that does NOT exist! I could suggest a nice trout fly pattern but that would do you little good if you fish for saltwater species!
One last comment and I'll give my soapbox to someone else - HAVE FUN! I hope that you have as much fun as I've had over the years, otherwise it's really not worth your time! Feel free to join in one of my swaps or simply drop me a PM and I'll be most happy to help you out.
Kim
