What is the best way to sharpen filet knives?

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a23fish

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I have a few filet knives, a couple Rapala, and LL Bean one, and a couple other generic, i.e., cheap, knives. I've had good results with the Rapalas & LL Bean, but over time they begin to lose that seeming razor edge sharpness they had when new. So, what is the best way to restore the fine sharp edge? Methods, sharpener tools, etc.
 
Cheap steal can only be sharpened so many times. For cheap filet knives I think the hand held draw through carbide sharpeners do a good job. When you can't get your 10 or 15 dollar knife sharp again, just buy a new one. I recently got some victorinox butcher knives, I think the midflex boning knife should serve well for dual use as a filet knife. We will see here soon if I get a chance to target spring crappie.
 
Invest in a Lansky set-up.

You can control the angle precisely (18 - 21 degrees for a filet knife), there are tons of stone options and other gizmos to make it easy and you can use it for other knives as well.
 
I've been down the knife sharpening road a hundred different times and have settled on a Worksharp ken onion edition.
 
As a metallurgist who designed some knife steels, I can say it's not really true that cheap steel can only be sharpened so many times. Cheap steel won't take quite as sharp of an edge. It also will tend to need resharpened more quickly, tend to chip or break more easily, etc. Most filet knives will not be made out of real hard steel, as the blade needs a lot of flexibility. Meaning they will dull quickly if you use them to cut stuff you shouldn't. Luckily, fish and fish bone is relatively soft, so it shouldn't be too bad. Be careful to use wood cutting boards and avoid cutting beef or anything of that sort. They're fish specialists.

As a knife guy who likes sharp ones, I like the spyderco sharpmaker personally. It tows the line between being semi guided but also fairly quick and easy and doesn't require a work bench with clamps and the like. But it only has 2 angles. 15 and 20 degrees (30 and 40 inclusive). That's a little big for a filet knife that's usually more like 12 degrees (24 inclusive), and they are often complex bevels with 3 or more edges like a safety razor blade (12, 18, 20, and 23 degrees is a common bevel sequence). If you did a a simple straight edge, the flexibility of the blade will suffer (and is important in a filet knife), and it will dull quickly and with such a thin blade will be harder to resharpen. It can be done on a Lansky if you know what you're doing. It would take exceptional skill to be able to do such shallow and precise angles by hand on a wetstone without some sort of guide system. If you wanna do it, a system like the Lansky with a LOT of fixed, clamped angle choices would be the way to go.

But the complicated edges of a filet knife and needing to keep that flexibility in the blade, it ain't easy. This is why many filet knives are sharpened professionally, or not at all, and cheap throwaways are common in that space.
 
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I have the Lanksky setup and find it just OK to use. After many years of try 'n fail I've come down to using a Bear two sided stone. The "corse" side is about 100 grit stone and only needed on really dull and\or chipped knives. The "not so much corse" side is about 300 grit. Then I take it to the 400 grit stone, and finally a 600 grit. I've I'm feeling spunky I will go to a 1500 grit stone.
 
For personal use, I just use a 6.5 inch long whet stone - 2 sided with fine and coarser grit. No problems.

Have been using the same 4.5-5 inch long, quality steel 2 blade fillet and descaling knife to fillet everything from 6 inch bluegills to 24 inch channel cats to 40 inch muskellunge and striped bass for the past 62 years. I only use my fancier true fillet knife to debone/fillet American shad, and even it has a more stout blade than the typical fillet knife. I bought it from a gentleman at a fish market who fillets/debones shad for a living.

Having attended a few channel cat and panfish “filleting parties” where all manner of knives were present, I have only been more impressed by electric knives.

Having had access to many lengths of thick to thin, traditional fillet knives to do much skin-on filleting of many species from many waters over the years (lab fish flesh contamination analysis), my go-to for professional use was about a 6.5 inch stout blade with a wooden handle. The wood is less slippery when your hands are all slimed up. Ten inch or so wild brook and brown trout were some of the more tedious to fillet, especially with cold hands.
 
Right you are Falcon. I forgot to mention that I frequently use a steel to touch up my knives when I am not taking the time to do a full sharpening job with my stone.

Also, rather than send ice auger blades away, which are razor sharp when new, I hand sharpen them with the same stone. Works well, but great care is needed in maintaining the proper angle. Can then shave the hair right off of my arm.
 
I use a whetstone, followed by steel, followed by ceramic.

I use water on my stones , not oil
 
Bamboozie
Invest in a Lansky set-up.

You can control the angle precisely (18 - 21 degrees for a filet knife), there are tons of stone options and other gizmos to make it easy and you can use it for other knives as well.

I have the predecessor to the Lanksky called LoRay. I got it back in 1968 or 69 or so up at the PA Bowhunters Festival. Both me and my brother-in-law got one and we both still have them in their original brown plastic box.

It works but you must move holder along the knife on longer knifes.

I had all of my kitchen knives sharpened about 7 months ago, they did an OK job but I wanted them real sharp so I’m thinking on getting the Worksharp as it is about the same price as the Lansky, and because I can’t get replacement stones for my LoRay.
 
I have the predecessor to the Lanksky called LoRay. I got it back in 1968 or 69 or so up at the PA Bowhunters Festival. Both me and my brother-in-law got one and we both still have them in their original brown plastic box.

It works but you must move holder along the knife on longer knifes...
I have a few long rods I made from steel rods for my Lansky for that same situation.

I can sharpen swords with it, if I want... ;)
 
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I use whetstones. I have a set from Soft Arkansas to a Black Stone. I just work my through the stones. I use a whetstone oil, though water will do in a pinch. I finish it off by using my grandfather's razor strop. My test for sharpness is to hold a piece of paper vertically. If I can slice through it without any pressure, the knife is sharp enough.
 
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