JimNovo
Well-known member
That’s beautiful. How do you tie the body?
What Are You Tying Today?
- Thread starter DaveKile
- Start date
mt_flyfisher
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Thanks. That’s a woven body with brown and yellow floss.
JimNovo
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That’s cool!
nfrechet
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- Mar 14, 2013
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Lucas Special
Hook - Single Salmon
Thread - Black
Tip - Silver tinsel
Ribbing - Gold tinsel
Body - Chartreuse floss
Throat - Blue hackle
Under wing - Chartreuse floss
Wing - Gray squirrel
Collar - Chartreuse chenille
There are multiple versions of the recipe on the internet.
Some with krystal flash under wing, some with a tail and others with green hackle throat.
Last edited:
nfrechet
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Blue Jeans
Hook - Single salmon
Thread - White
Tip - Silver tinsel
Tag Aqua blue uni stretch
Tail - Blue hackle
Ribbing - Oval silver tinsel
Body - Royal blue floss
Throat - Blue hackle
Wing - Purple squirrel tail
From an Internet Photo
salmo
Well-known member
Roast? Keep tying my friend!!
JimNovo
Well-known member
Gifts for streamer swap participants.
Baby brown trout, size 6.
Baby brown trout, size 6.
JimNovo
Well-known member
Materials in this please….
MJMFlyfisher
Well-known member
Sulphur Nymph
I use two basic sulphur nymph patterns. This style, with a UTC vinyl abdomen and medallion sheeting wing case...and the other Rothrock style with a dubbed color matched body and goose quill wing case.
(If I'm feeling lazy and want to knock out a bunch of useable flies I'll use the same medallion sheeting wing case with the full dubbed fly because its quicker and easier to work with.)
These are a little fancier but I've been leaning more on these vinyl ribbed abdomen style smaller nymphs because I think they just look more "alive" with the translucent and segmented bodies.
Hook - #16 2XL of your choice. That makes a finished body to the head of about 8.5- 9mm which puts it at the top end of the invaria and close enough to the slightly larger rotunda so it covers you close enough for both.
You can also alter this pattern for the later smaller dorothea by altering the hook (18 2xl) and the material slightly.
Thread - Brown 18/0 Semperfli Nano Silk
Abdomen - UTC vinyl in "Tan" and in the "nymph" size. (Use the "Midge" size for the #18's)
Sulphur nymphs are a very basic brownish/tanish dirt color with hints of olive and amber.
You can also make some darker versions using the same material but in UTC "Brown" color.
Underbody - "Dark brown" 8/0 Uni thread. (I whip the 18/0 thread off after tying in the tails and vinyl. Then use a second bobbin with the 8/0 uni to build a tapered darker underbody....and then swap back to the 18/0 to finish the fly after the underbody is built. I do this for three reasons.....the uni is darker, CHEAPER, and builds up the underbody quicker.....and the 18/0 just makes for a cleaner less bulky fly as the primary tying thread. It's worth the flip flop. If you haven't tied with 18/0 nano silk on your smaller flies......it can be a game changer.
Tails and legs - Wood duck flank. I look for the next level up in barring on the feathers from my baetis nymphs. About 12 fibers or so for each leg side and tail. I make the tails and the legs the same length as the visible abdomen.
Thorax - Ligas Ultra Translucent #35 "Medium Hares ear" which is really a dark brown with hints of amber and olive color. Give it a slight brush and trim any crazy hairs.
Wingcase - Dark dun "medallion sheeting". A thin layer of medium solarez UV to build up just a bit more bulk and sheen. Sulphur naturals are stocky little guys with squared shoulders so I try to square the thorax just shy of the head vs say a more tapered teardrop look of a baetis.
I use two basic sulphur nymph patterns. This style, with a UTC vinyl abdomen and medallion sheeting wing case...and the other Rothrock style with a dubbed color matched body and goose quill wing case.
(If I'm feeling lazy and want to knock out a bunch of useable flies I'll use the same medallion sheeting wing case with the full dubbed fly because its quicker and easier to work with.)
These are a little fancier but I've been leaning more on these vinyl ribbed abdomen style smaller nymphs because I think they just look more "alive" with the translucent and segmented bodies.
Hook - #16 2XL of your choice. That makes a finished body to the head of about 8.5- 9mm which puts it at the top end of the invaria and close enough to the slightly larger rotunda so it covers you close enough for both.
You can also alter this pattern for the later smaller dorothea by altering the hook (18 2xl) and the material slightly.
Thread - Brown 18/0 Semperfli Nano Silk
Abdomen - UTC vinyl in "Tan" and in the "nymph" size. (Use the "Midge" size for the #18's)
Sulphur nymphs are a very basic brownish/tanish dirt color with hints of olive and amber.
You can also make some darker versions using the same material but in UTC "Brown" color.
Underbody - "Dark brown" 8/0 Uni thread. (I whip the 18/0 thread off after tying in the tails and vinyl. Then use a second bobbin with the 8/0 uni to build a tapered darker underbody....and then swap back to the 18/0 to finish the fly after the underbody is built. I do this for three reasons.....the uni is darker, CHEAPER, and builds up the underbody quicker.....and the 18/0 just makes for a cleaner less bulky fly as the primary tying thread. It's worth the flip flop. If you haven't tied with 18/0 nano silk on your smaller flies......it can be a game changer.
Tails and legs - Wood duck flank. I look for the next level up in barring on the feathers from my baetis nymphs. About 12 fibers or so for each leg side and tail. I make the tails and the legs the same length as the visible abdomen.
Thorax - Ligas Ultra Translucent #35 "Medium Hares ear" which is really a dark brown with hints of amber and olive color. Give it a slight brush and trim any crazy hairs.
Wingcase - Dark dun "medallion sheeting". A thin layer of medium solarez UV to build up just a bit more bulk and sheen. Sulphur naturals are stocky little guys with squared shoulders so I try to square the thorax just shy of the head vs say a more tapered teardrop look of a baetis.
Last edited:
JMP
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- 161
hooker-of-men
Well-known member
Frenchies and friends.
nfrechet
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- Mar 14, 2013
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Kilchis Green
Hook - Single salmon
Thread - Red
Body - Chartreuse floss
Wing - Lime green krystal flash
Collar - Chartreuse hen hackle
The Kilchis Green was developed by Oregon guide Rich Youngers.
This fly is similar to the Kilchis Killer developed by Northwest Fly Fisherman/Author John Shewey
nfrechet
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Jack Shaw’s Quill Body Chironomid
Hook - Curved
Thread - Brown
Ribbing - Gold or copper wire
Body - Stripped peacock eye quill
Wing case - Pheasant tail
Breathers - White uni stretch
Thorax - Peacock herl
(2) Jack Shaw’s Quill Body Chironomid - YouTube
dudemanspecial
Well-known member
What is that barred wing material? Partridge?
Also, interesting that you tie them so small. Everything I ever see online has these at a 12 or 14, but my experience has been they are more of a 16 ish size. Please comment on your size choice if you could.
MJMFlyfisher
Well-known member
I'm sorry I didn't realize I posted this over in the 2023 tying thread! Just moving it over. 🙂
Baetis Nymph time!
Truth be told on a #18 2XL hook the trout would probably take anything with 1/4 of this detail LOL
Pheasant tails reg and olive colors work great too and I tie a bunch. It's almost hard to make these too slender but they really should have some taper. Baetis really have that elongated teardrop shape.
This is a confidence fly for me from February through April anywhere BWO's reside.
Hook - #18 2xl of your choice.....take your pick but make it standard/fine wire.
Thread - Semperfli 18/0 Nano Silk, olive or brown. Keeps the bulk down
Abdomen - UTC vinyl Olive "midge" over a slightly tapered thread body
Thorax - Really any olive or olive brown fine dubbing will work. I use an old package of Ligas Ultra Translucent #37 "Olive Hares Ear". I've also had good luck with a couple turns of peacock herl in place of dubbing.
Tails and legs - Wood duck flank everyday! I try to pick the finer barred feathers. 8-10 per side and tail. Less if you only have the heavier barred stuff.
Wing Case - Dark Dun medallion sheeting - And I run a small thin bead of UV resin off the back into the abdomen to give it that smooth teardrop shape. Don't make an overly big humpy wingcase.
*Credit Jason Neuswanger for his terrific natural pics I pirated off the Google!
Baetis Nymph time!
Truth be told on a #18 2XL hook the trout would probably take anything with 1/4 of this detail LOL
Pheasant tails reg and olive colors work great too and I tie a bunch. It's almost hard to make these too slender but they really should have some taper. Baetis really have that elongated teardrop shape.
This is a confidence fly for me from February through April anywhere BWO's reside.
Hook - #18 2xl of your choice.....take your pick but make it standard/fine wire.
Thread - Semperfli 18/0 Nano Silk, olive or brown. Keeps the bulk down
Abdomen - UTC vinyl Olive "midge" over a slightly tapered thread body
Thorax - Really any olive or olive brown fine dubbing will work. I use an old package of Ligas Ultra Translucent #37 "Olive Hares Ear". I've also had good luck with a couple turns of peacock herl in place of dubbing.
Tails and legs - Wood duck flank everyday! I try to pick the finer barred feathers. 8-10 per side and tail. Less if you only have the heavier barred stuff.
Wing Case - Dark Dun medallion sheeting - And I run a small thin bead of UV resin off the back into the abdomen to give it that smooth teardrop shape. Don't make an overly big humpy wingcase.
*Credit Jason Neuswanger for his terrific natural pics I pirated off the Google!
