under-lining a reel

MrMustard

MrMustard

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Feb 3, 2009
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Hello everyone:

I'm looking for a little advice. I have an Okuma Magnitude 7/8 reel. The reel is standard arbor and actually quite small and light for a 7/8 reel.

I'd like to get a larger arbor reel for steelheading with my 7 weight. I'm also considering lining my Okuma with 5 weight line to use on my 5 weight rod.

I can't imagine any reasons why this would be a problem, especially becuase the reel is so small to begin with. But then again, I have not been at this for very long and am more than happy to defer to experience.

Does anyone foresee, or know from experience, any problems with underlining a reel?
 
I would go as far as to say there is no such thing as underlining a reel. Go for it.
 
no-
7/8,5/6 or whatever are just recommendations-meaningless in actual fishing.
 
beaten again-ouch :}
 
Add or remove backing as desired, if you like the balance have at it.

In another thread, someone said they use a Pflueger 1595 on a 3wt, a reel normally used for 5-8, and I've put a 10 on.
 
I underline a lot, especially when fishing dries. I also am going to build a 10 wt. for lake fishing and plan on stepping down two wieghts in line because of the expected distances I'll have to cast for those pike.
 
MKern wrote:
I underline a lot, especially when fishing dries. I also am going to build a 10 wt. for lake fishing and plan on stepping down two wieghts in line because of the expected distances I'll have to cast for those pike.

Agreed, but OP is asking about a reel. I pretty much agree with jdaddy.
 
I underline a lot, especially when fishing dries. I also am going to build a 10 wt. for lake fishing and plan on stepping down two wieghts in line because of the expected distances I'll have to cast for those pike./quote

If all your casts are long-why not shooting heads?
That way you can overweight the rod-cut some off the butt end to match the distance you will be casting and add 25 % further than you could cast with under weighted line.
Plus you can quickly change heads to match water depth.
I used a 11wt. on 8 wt. rod -trimmed butt to match rod.That way you are only using about 22 feet of fly line and a running line-a blessing with wind-
 
Pete speaks truth. All that false castint is stupid, you want distance you need a shooting head.

I think Frederick can weigh in on this, I think he does it in the salt. I also think Ramcatt's got the shooting head thing down. Dare I suggest a sister thread?
 
Distance = shooting heads
depending on rod, line wt. and line size you can have as short as 10 ft. or as long 50+ ft. I use heads for all my distance casting. I build all mine for each rod/situation
 
I would put more backing on to fill up the space.
And this would make it in effect, kind of a mid arbor reel IMO
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. That's about what I figured, just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking anything.
 
The only thing I would add is to make sure the larger reel doesn't unbalance the rod. There is no problem using the lighter line on a bigger reel...just follow the suggestions given with adjusting amount of backing, etc. However, if the reel is too heavy for a rod designed for a lighter weight, it can be a bear to cast for extended periods of time because you will be fighting the center of balance all day.
Put the reel with line on the rod you intend to fish. grab the rod on the cork as you would when you fish it. point the rod tip straight up. move the rod back and forth in a 1oclock - 11oclock motion. it should swing smoothly like a pendulum.
here's a little more info on balancing the rod
http://www.flyfishohio.com/a_question_of_balance.htm

Bottom line is, it should feel comfortable to you as you cast...a heavier reel may or may not affect that...so give it a test (a good excuse to get out and fish at least 2 days straight...one to test the new reel and one to test "appropriate" sized reel for comparisons sake!
 
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