Toothies, 2016

Just joined the forum, I got 4 early in the season here in WV and then summer killed most fishing opportunities. Managed a small 28" ski a month ago and 2 weeks ago missed 4.
 
I have been on the vise tying toothy critter flys and thinking how to tie a big fly that can be thrown with the least effort and im getting pretty close i do believe,So on to the fly line what type of fly line do the toothy critter guys and gals use.I know that i will be pitching a floating,forward weight line but is there a favorite.I figured this would be the place to ask.
 
That tourney fish is a good catch. Is that water body in Pa and are you aware if the Muskies there are typically that thin?
 
Mel the fly lines I use are type 3 & 7 sink rates in the 400 to 459 grain range. Floaters for me are reserved to topwater use only.

Mike that fish was caught in the Allgheny. Also that fish was most likely a male. The females at this time were and still are developing eggs. If it was a male it age is probably over ten years old. Also it was missing its left too.
 
Agree that a sinking line is the way to go for muskies.
 
For the most part i am only fishing 3-6ft of water and im getting down about 6 to 12in with my fly. Since i posted last i found a few other things that i am going to have to had to my collection(Bigger net,Longer needle nose and 50+ pound mono or better yet steel leader.My fly worked but the 20 pound tippet didnt(Fish Off)With my darn fly. Was even a small northern. Lesson learned.
 
The knotable wire is definitely worth looking at. If guys are still using mono or flouro its in the 80lb range for the bite guard, and 40lb for the butt section. The knotable wire is much easier to work with than 80lb flouro.
 
This may have been discussed in another thread, but when constructing leaders do you all incorporate a "class leader"? In other words: heavy butt section, lighter mid section, and bite guard.

The purpose of the mid section is (in theory) to be the weak link that will break if , for instance, you get caught on a deep log or rock.
 
Fly-Swatter wrote:
This may have been discussed in another thread, but when constructing leaders do you all incorporate a "class leader"? In other words: heavy butt section, lighter mid section, and bite guard.

The purpose of the mid section is (in theory) to be the weak link that will break if , for instance, you get caught on a deep log or rock.

Yes, this is precisely why you need a "class tippet": to break off a snagged fly. If your entire leader is 50+ lb test and you get snagged, you've got a problem.

I like a #20 class tippet.
 
I don't see any need to incorporate a break point. You can pop you nailknot from your leader to main line with the same pressure you can pop twenty pound mono. I nailknot 3ft of 40 pound flouro to the fly line. I tie a perfection loop which inhand shake my bite guard to. Bite guard I use a minimum of 80 pound flouro preferably 30 pound knowable wire. I've run this system for 4 years. Never broke a fly line like the horror stories ya hear of breaking one mid ship. All that happens when ya slip the nail knot is ya loose 1/4 inch of coating of the fly line and retie.

The level leader and limited amount of knots makes a smooth transition slipping your leader in and out during a figure 8 eat.

Flynlines type 3 and 7 is were it's at for me. I fish a lot of Buford style flys and fairly quickly. Nothing is more frustrating than having to fish slow cause your line and fly woulnt get down in the zone.
 
Got luck and picked up another yesterday. Very weird eat. It swam strait at the boat. I was playing catch up on the strip trying to get caught up on the take. If it wasn't for my buddy back rowing as hard as he did I never woulda got iron in it.
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Great fish.

GenCon
 
Nice fish and i like the back round camo too.
 
Nice!
 
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