Tips for fighting/landing big trout

[JeffK]

Grouchy old man alert. The last time I saw George Harvey he was recommending 5X for tricos. George's position was the old school biggest tippet that will fit in the eye practice. It's more sporting because when you present the fly you better make a great presentation with a heavier tippet (lighter tippets cover many sins) and when you get a fish on you can get it in quickly. I only use 6x for tricos/midges in the 22 range and in April mostly have 3x or 4x on. Larger tippet helps bringing fish in. When I'm on the Delaware or some other river where a large fish is a possibilty on every trip I rarely go below 4x. You can land big fish on 6x. However, you are right at the limit. A less than perfect knot, a little abrasion, a quick shock load, a big brown goes under a rock, etc, etc, and you wish you had a heavier tippet.

OK, I've vented.

Side pressure, don't letting a fish get downstream, and letting a fish go if you can't stop him are all great suggestions too. Keep calm and you bring in more, but you don't get all and the ones you lose make better stories. They haunt you more too.

 

[flyfishinx2]

pcray1231 wrote:
1. Don't use 6x.
2. Don't use 6x.

.

r


That's apparently been my mistake for years, it's cost me dearly already this year as I've lost a few big ones that should have been landed. I think I'm addcted to 6X as I always feel like I'm not fishing properly if using something heavier.

So I'm now curious what size tippet people are using and in what situations?

 

[djs12354]

Patience is the key to landing large fish on light line and/or tippet. Try to horse the fish and you might as well start waving bye-bye!

 

[geebee]

Fishidiot wrote:
Always have a landing net.

When fighting the fish, as he gets closer and tries to run, fight him with your rod low and to the side - swing you rod so you are pulling him the opposite direction that he's trying swim. As he turns, then swing your rod to the opposite side. This is how tarpon guys "break" a big fish - by constantly turning his head. It works on small stream fish like trout and bass as well.

And don't forget the net.

This is really great advice - always keep switching to put side pressure on in the opposite direction, it demoalises the fish much quicker, than one you let race around and around a pool.

Never let the fish rest or go doggo, if he's not pulling you pull.

Despite what other people have said - let the fish decide if you put him on the reel. When you are learning its better to gently hold the line and let him pull, run etc. You'll get the feel of how a brown, bow, brookie etc each fight differently.

I have seen so many good fish lost as the novice angler is trying to get the fish on the reel or is adjusting the drag as the fish runs and pops the tippet or the hook pulls.

Always try to get the fish into slack water to land, and if he runs downstream in heavy water let him. I never chase a fish unless there's a better landing spot below me. People forget that with 30-40 yards of fly line out that there's a fair bit of stretch and shock protection, so if he runs and stops way downstream then I tighten up the drag if the fish has put me on the reel, and keep him there. Then I slowly horse him up.

IMHO if you c&r fishing you have a responsibility to that fish to fight him as hard as you dare and horse him in as quick as you can.

I now use the same method for Stripers, Atlantic salmon, landlocks , and all trout. I never play a fish for more than 4-5 minutes.

The method is called Down and Dirty and it was promoted first by FL tarpon guide Stu Apte.

Touch wood I haven't lost a Salmon or a Striper yet, but I lose a trout or two occasionally, but I feel better about the ones I do land.

Cheers

Mark