Slower/moderate "full flex" rods

The 490 and 590 Trout LL's are great dry fly rods. I'd lean towards the 490.
 
discomidge:

Without exception, ALL of my trout rods are moderate to slow and I do everything with them, not so much because I feel they are more delicate, but because it just happens to be the rod action I prefer for trout fishing. You can get delicate with any rod by other means such as longer front taper lines, longer leaders and tweaking the way you present the fly.

When I fish Penns or other larger streams I like a 9 foot rod, 8’6” would be the shortest. Not because I couldn’t get away with an 8 foot rod, I just happen to prefer the longest rod I can get away with and I don’t have to compromise with my arsenal. ;-)

I am fortunate enough to own more than a few extraordinary Winston rods from 8’6” to 9’0” but ALL are no longer available so the problem is, where do you find a NEW moderate longer rod and what is moderate to YOU.

I suggest you start out by trying to at least get your hands on something to play with that you THINK may be moderate to determine a reference point (too fast/too slow) and go from there. Also, make sure to take the rods you currently own with you to compare.

Don’t be afraid to play around with some of the Orvis Superfine Fiberglass rods even if you are not interested in glass or they are shorter or heavier than you want as a reference point so you have a better idea what you might like…or not. Finding the flex/rod action you want is the first step, finding that action in the material, length, line weight, and number of pieces you are after is the second step.

As far as options, Winston or Scott may be a starting point but I really don’t know what they have available these days. If you aren’t opposed to something used, try someone’s vintage Orvis graphite. It might be the ticket but may only be available in two-piece options. Vintage Winston, (IM6, WT, DL4, even LT5) are other used options you may like.

Good luck!!
 
Thank you both for the replies. Getting my hands on something moderate to play with sounds like sound advice. I'm considering pickup up a Reddington CT and fishing it a bit so I have a better frame of reference before dropping a lot of coin on something fancy.

Those vintage Orvis Graphites sound cool and aren't that spendy, tho there are no 4wts on ebay right now. I'll keep my eyes peeled. And yeah, my brother has come choice discontinued Winston rods too, but sadly he live out in Montana so I can't cast them. Would be a good excuse to get out there though....

 
disco:

I just want to add a couple of things:

One person's "moderate" may be another person's FAST or even SLOW depending on what you normally fish and prefer so don't get hung up on "labels" or descriptions.

What YOU like is all that matters...

As a point of reference, NONE of my trout rods requires a fancy taper or overweight fly line to feel "moderate" in my hands. I use nothing but standard double tapers that are not a grain overweight.

So for that reason, if someone tells me a rod is moderate, but it needs a heavier than normal line to feel that way, I would probably NOT consider it moderate, but rather a moderately fast rod that is underrated in regards to line size...

...but that's me.

So get out there and experiment and good luck in your search!!
 
Thanks a ton and yeah, I'm definitely looking for a rod that casts a true to grain weight fly line. I've had good luck with the SA trout taper which is spot on IIRC
 
Linked below is a really great article that I've posted on here several times with info written by Lefty Kreh about choosing line weights for rods.

Line weight is really a sliding scale that changes as you strip out or strip in line. In other words, 25 feet of 4wt line weighs the same as 20' +/- of 5 wt line on your rod.

The point that Lefty makes is overlining or underlining is a great way adjust to conditions on the stream.

I suggest you try casting different weight lines on your rod as an experiment simply by changing out reels or spools and see how well it works for you.

I change up line weight all the time based on conditions, and it's amazing how you can expand the performance of your rod and be more proficient by doing this.

Anyway read the article to understand the concept.

https://www.scientificanglers.com/choose-right-fly-line-weight/
 
Lefty, sure did have that Charisma, the talk, that smile, laugh and most of all, he fit in. What a guy! Tribute to: Lefty!
 
Wow, super interesting article, thanks for sharing (again). I've only been taking fly fishing way too seriously for a couple years now. Before that I had a very crappy boat and fished inshore/nearshore for stripers primarily. I don't have much experience with lines yet and have never tried under lining (if that's a term) my rod, but I'm intrigued. I've primarily fished SA's standard or trout taper, but this winter am fishing their infinity taper which, as a half size heavy line, has totally changed my feel. I can really shoot it out there and can turn over heavy rigs, which is what I was hoping for when I got it for winter fishing.

But that's all off topic I guess. Alas, even if putting a 4 weight line on my 5wt rod is the ticket, I still want to buy another lighter, slower rod. Because I'm an unrepentant sucker for gear. I'd bet some of you all understand. I mean I've only got 3 fly rods and about a million saltwater rods that I won't use again anytime soon. I must correct this imbalance.
 
Get a too-light rod and up-line to the size you want.
I use a Helios mid-flex 9 ft 4 wt and use a Mastery Trout 5 wt line.
Not only is it good for sippers 15 ft. away, but I can fling 60 ft. of line.
 
Whatever rod you get, I'd get a true to weight line. Usually dt lines are true to weight. Wf lines that are true to weight usually have a longer less aggressive Taper, which is what you want for dry flies imo. SA trout taper is a nice taper.

Its hard to go wrong with an original scott g.
 
I have an older Winston that has an action like that. My favorite rod.
 
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