Later still but...
There are two schools of thoughts on waxing NON-metal ferrules with some manufacturers suggesting it and other advising against it.
First off, Ryan is spot-on as to a cause, cold morning when joined and a lot warmer when you attempt to unjoin. For that reason on those days when it gets warm midday, I unseat and reseat my ferrules once or twice during the day, which helps and lets you know if they are coming loose.
Second, I never had a ferrule of any type not come apart after icing it and that includes nickel silver ferrules on bamboo rods. As I always have a cooler with beer in the back of my car, it’s not a problem to ice them IF they get stuck which is another good reason to bring beer!!
However, ALWAYS have some sort of rubber grippy pads with you so your hands don't inadvertently slide on a stuck wet blank and rip off a guide. I like to use that rubberized foam sheet sold as drawer liner.
There are basically two types of non-metal ferrules:
SLEEVE–OVER FERRULES or TIP-OVER-BUTT where a wider female half of the ferrule built into or on to the blank slides over a narrower male portion of the ferrule, which is usually just the normal blank diameter. Sleeve-over ferrules are usually found on less expensive USA built rods or as a cost cutting measure on higher end domestic rods because they are generally not fitted to size which means less labor and they are also slightly heavier. However, many people prefer the look of sleeve-over ferrules.
SPIGOT FERRULES are created when the blank is cut where the joints will be and a short section of fiberglass or graphite is sanded & glued into one-half of the blank (usually the lower section) which creates the male ferrule. That same short section of fiberglass or graphite is then sanded and fitted so it slides into to the other half or female portion of the ferrule leaving as much as a 1/2” gap. That gap is to compensate for future wear so spigot ferrules should NEVER be forced together to try and close that gap or you will crack the rod at the joint.
Spigots are more labor intensive to get them to fit properly so typically would only be found on higher end USA built rods. Some folks don’t like the gap found on spigots, especially when the spigot itself is a different color than the rod blank. I was in that camp once… ;-)
Back to wax…
Dirt & grit sticks to wax so you SHOULD clean it off completely from both the male & female portions, which is easier said than done with the female if you don’t want to prematurely wear out the ferrule. If you wear out the ferrule you will NEED wax just to keep it together.
Fenwick who introduced and patented the “Feralite” Sleeve-Over ferrule recommended wax and a 1/4 or less TWIST to seat AND unseat them. I have a few rods with Sleeve-Over ferrules and I wax & twist them and have no issues although I remove and reapply the wax occasionally. I never had a waxed sleeve-over become stuck.
I own many Winston graphite & glass rods with spigot ferrules and Winston recommends NOT using wax on spigots to reduce wear from trapped dirt and to seat & unseat them dry with a slight twist. As I result, I don’t wax ANY spigot ferrules on any graphite or glass rod from any maker. I have had spigots on some graphite rods stick, but the ice trick always worked. Regardless, I always listen what the manufacturer recommends in regards to care.
Ironically, the ONLY non-metal ferrule I ever saw that wore completely out to the point of not staying together was a Feralite sleeve-over on a Fenwick HMG 7’6” 5wt that I sold to a friend who didn’t take care of it…
As always, YMMV.
