Round Glo-Bugs?

goodfortune

goodfortune

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Oct 8, 2008
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Hey Guys:


Are there any tricks that you all use to get your glo-bugs nice and round? As my first steelhead yesterday proved, a less than perfectly tied glo-bug will catch fish :-D.

However, I'd like to be able to tie glo-bugs with a nicer, more rounded shape, without the jagged edges that mine currently have. Let me know; I look forward to everyone's responses
 
GF,
To get a round glo bug or egg fly, try packing the material a bit tighter - I usually press the stuff together tighter on the shank of the hook with my fingernails after it's cinched down with the thread. Then, before trimming it to shape, take a dubbing needle or hook point to pull out the material a bit so it "fluffs" into a circular clump around the hook. A pair of curved scissors will help with shaping the egg but if you take your time with straight scissors you should get a decent round form. Although they're a bit pricy in my view, you can purchase pre-made eggs that are perfectly round and have sparkle incorporated into the egg at most fly shops. They work okay but need some epoxy and thread wraps to get 'em to fix solidly to the hook shank. As you noticed, however, the fish won't mind a sloppy shape. Glad to hear you had some luck with the steelhead Sunday - we might have another steel addict in the making. :)
 
I like to tie my glo-bugs in two steps. I like to use McFly foam. I tie in about half of the foam I am going to use for the fly and position it so it is on the underside of the hook. I then attach the other half of the foam on the top of the hook, just like tying normal glo-bug, as well as adding in a small amount of foam in another color if you'd like a blood dot. You then trim the foam on either side of the hook in a curved fashion, ultimately creating a perfect ball shape. I believe this produces the best looking glo-bug.
 
I also like McFly Foam, it holds form better than Glo Bug Yarn IMHO. Good sharp scissors are a must.

Check out Charlie Meck's version.
 
A few tips for how I tie mine.

First off put a good thread base down on the hook. If not, after a few steelhead they will be ripped off the hook. This gives them durability. I also put a layer of cement over the thread to hold it even more. I use just about anything, but mcfly foam does seem to have the best outcome. I actually don't like mine that tight. The looser ones seem to look more natural to me in the water. After I'm done I take all the yarn, gather it at the top and put about 4 turns of thread under it, kind of like you're tying a parachute. This makes it look more like a mushroom because it's more towards the top, but I don't have problems catching fish. This also helps with durability. I would rather have my flies look just slightly off, then be retying one on every 2 fish. It saves time in the long run and the fish don't seem to mind. I also tie my eggs a bit larger. As a few guys saw at the JAM mine are on sz 10 scud hooks and are about the diameter of a dime or penny. They don't represent the size of a real egg, but also, the fish don't seem to mind.

Hope this helped.

Ryan
 
Mcfly foam, sharp scissors, and practice.

Although, I catch more fish on my loosely packed, badly shaped yarn eggs. I have read that a loosely packed yarn egg is closer to the natural in the water- both looks and buoyancy.
 
I tie mine with glo-bug yarn as I like how it retains water and gets the fly down quickly. I use kevlar thread. I start thread, place 3-4 hanks of yarn atop hook, two wraps, then pull down hard. I sometimes will use 3 of one color, 1 of another to attain an "eye" on my eggs. After the really tight binding wrap, I will add a 3rd binding wrap, then pull up on yarn and wrap around base like a parachute wing with one or two wraps, then finish head. Then I pull straight up, HARD on all pieces of yarn and cut them off in a semi-circle. You can then fan out the yarn to cover the bottom of the hook and make a sphere. I was taught to tie these by Mark Altland from York, and its the method I've always used. For me, strong vise jaws and kevlar thread are the key as you really gotta yank on 'em. Just my 2 cents, thanks.
-Dave
 
I use both materials in whatever color I can get either in the cheapest. Both work fine. I am no overly particular about perfect spheres.
 
I use Mcfly foam and the Glo Bug Dispenser tubes. Nice thing about using the tubes is that you only have to make one cut and there is no wasted material and no trimming needed. I use Gudebrod's GX2 thread and wrap very tightly. I think the key to a tight round Glo Bug is really cranking down on the thread.
 
It seems as though Loren rarely posts here, but I consider his site among the best when it comes to steelheading. Here's what he has to say.

http://www.flyguysoutfitting.com/globugsbs.html
 
I have the same problem sometimes, but continually tying them definitely helps .
 
Thanks for all of the respones everyone! I've already started using the tips and advice given; the one about cutting the yarn in a semicircle (I was taught to cut straight across) has really helped. It'll take me more practice but I get there :)
 
jayL wrote:
It seems as though Loren rarely posts here, but I consider his site among the best when it comes to steelheading. Here's what he has to say.

http://www.flyguysoutfitting.com/globugsbs.html


The colors that he uses in that recipe are what I have most success with at Erie. I know I handed out a bunch of them and everyone was hooking and catching fish with them. Egg color with a salmon dot.
 
I like the link that JayL posted too. The idea of using steam to help fluff out the eggs after tying them is interesting; I'll try it. I'll also see if I can get some GSP thread and try it. I currently use the Danville 210 Denier flat wax when I tie eggs.
 
Yep I too just started using 210 and it really helps when really cranking down on the yarn. My flies aren't perfect but they sure do catch fish.
 
I'll have to pick up some 210. I always like using orange thread for my eggs.
 
If you can still find Danville 3/0 waxed monocord (116 Denier),
the stuff is amazing strong and ties very small.
I heard that Danville will stop supplying this item. I hope it's not true.
 
dano wrote:
If you can still find Danville 3/0 waxed monocord (116 Denier),
the stuff is amazing strong and ties very small.
I heard that Danville will stop supplying this item. I hope it's not true.

Unfortunately, I think it is true. I also like monocord for globugs, and lots of other ties. The color selection was never all that big to begin with, but it is great stuff.

UTC 140 is pretty close in strength and characteristics to monocord, but the original can't be beat, IMHO. Better stock up when you find it......
 
Hey guys,

I went to International Angler in Robinson. They are trying to have Jeff Blood come in for a Saturday workshop...If I learn when I will post but he knows more about eggs than an omlette chef at the Grand Concourse in Pittsburgh....Also check with International Angler in Robinson or watch their web site for more information...

Boss
 
Thanks boss
 
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