roll casting fiberglass.

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nathanazajac

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Nov 12, 2014
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Okay I just picked up a wonder rod 7' 9" and it cast like a dream. I just love it it makes me feel like a pro caster, until I try to roll a cast I just can not get it right. Every time I try it just piles up on me. Anyone have any pointers thank you
 
What type of line are you using? When I built my glass rod I loved it but it really came to life with a double tapered line. The slow action of the rod and the even weight distribution of the line work great together.
Just something for you to think about.
 
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but you are trying this over water, aren't you? Most rods don't roll cast very well on the lawn.
 
whheff wrote:
What type of line are you using? When I built my glass rod I loved it but it really came to life with a double tapered line. The slow action of the rod and the even weight distribution of the line work great together.
Just something for you to think about.
I second that thought. I've found DT lines really shine on cane rods and would guess glass to be similar. In general I think DT is more suited to roll casting, but I've got nothing but my own experience to back it up.
Mike.
 

Afish will be along shortly to lend a unique crotchety old man take on why won't you people fish modern technology. I like to hope he quotes my post and belittles it as much as possible, it's like our special game.

That said, what he will inevitably (correctly) point out is that DT and WF lines are the exact same thing for the first 30ish feet or so.

It's only have the head in a WF line is done and it tapers down to a running line that a difference is found.

So, are you rolling casting past ~30' of WF? Then you're hurting yourself as the running line's lesser mass won't carry the energy down the line (esp as it increases mass into the head). However, if you're not casting into the running line, then there's no difference, and you simply need to get better.

The same theory holds to casting line in the air; the difference here is that the DT line will carry more weight in the air (and also bleed energy quicker). YMMV, but at typical casting distances for trout feshing, they work the same. If you need to shoot beyond 30' of line, then WF makes sense as the increased mass alone in teh head carries the running line bette than the uniform thickness DT line does.

The triangle or whatever it's called lines roll cast the best (and cast better, too) due to the fact that its a constant taper forward, so as the line thins out the remaining energy you put into it continues to push forward.

Finally, fiberglass normally roll casts better than graphite due to the way it flexes and transmits its energy. You simply need to get used to the different timing.

 
fiberglass normally roll casts better than graphite due to the way it flexes and transmits its energy. You simply need to get used to the different timing.
+1 And maybe the technique is slightly different, I think I may reach forward and then ease back to assist the roll but I'm not sure if that's what the difference is, but whatever it is - it works really well.
 
Gfen, that is a really good point regarding the first ~30 ft of both being the same. I'm still not sure why I favor DT for bamboo though. Maybe psychosomatic ;-)
Mike.
 
I have a little Orvis glass 3 wt and it roll casts really nicely for me in these tight limestones. I like it so much that I just ordered me the new TFO in 4/5 wt for larger streams.
 
FrequentTyer wrote:
Gfen, that is a really good point regarding the first ~30 ft of both being the same. I'm still not sure why I favor DT for bamboo though. Maybe psychosomatic ;-)
Mike.

Gfen makes a good point but there are so many different head styles on WF line that it is not a black and white argument.
I have found that the DT lines worked better on my 2 and 3 weight rods. When I built my Steffen brother 4/5 glass rod, I could not get it to cast well at all. Then I contacted Mark Steffen and all he talked about was DT lines. I got a cheap H&H DT and it really made a big difference in my glass rod.
I feel the DT lines work better on slow action rods that don't need head weight to load them. Just my thoughts. :)
Bill
 
Okay I just picked up a wonder rod 7' 9" and it cast like a dream. I just love it it makes me feel like a pro caster, until I try to roll a cast I just can not get it right.
I forgot to ask - which model 7'9" did you get? Should be either written on the blank or stamped on the reel seat. Quite a few variations were made from very soft action to some fairly hefty ones.
 
I like glen's logic on the lines, it makes sense to me. As for the roll cast itself, the tension on the line is a very important aspect of roll casting. Simply put, in one motion, bring the rod to a vertical position and while the line is on the water with tension, make the forward motion of the cast.
If you're doing it right a big loop will form and the line will roll out and put the fly where you want it. Caveat, don't try changing the direction of where you want the fly to land, it's very hard to do with a roll cast. It helps to have a rod that lifts the line off the water well.
 
Thanks for all the advice I am making no cast longer than 30 feet. The line I was using looked like a level line so I will have to grab another reel and get back out an try with a dt or wf I have both so I will give it a shot. I will get the model number up I believe it was listed as a 6 or 7 weight. Thanks again
 
The no. Is 1270b model fhb. I believe that is a "bass" action rod. So not ideal I guess but I have never been able to cast this well with any of my graphite rods. I just love the slow paced casting it is definitely my style!
 
Nice to hear it's working well for you. If you decide to go with a lighter action vintage Shakespeare, there were a lot of 7'9"s made. The 1280T Wonderod was a lighter action 7'9" rod and (like the 1280B) was well liked and therefore made for a long time. Here's a link to a nice reference page that shows many of the models, note the various actions as well as rod weights. Many people feel that the older fiberglass rods start to get heavy in general once you get over 8'. That's why the vintage ones under 8' are more expensive.

http://fiberglass-fly-rods.pbworks.com/w/page/5183005/Shakespeare#LINES

As you've probably already found out, older glass rods are rather flexible regarding line weights, you can typically go up & down a bit from the recommendations.
 
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