Rod Repair

[laszlo]

I'm attempting to repair a rod broken about 6 inchs above the reel seat. Normally a stent would be inserted through the lower piece and glued to the upper piece. However with the reel seat blocking access to the lower piece I'm not sure how to insert the stent for a proper repair. Anyone ever run into this type of repair?

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

Not certain of the broken location but on my rods, 6" above the reel seat is close to the end of the cork.
I expect the reel seat will need to be removed and I know it can be removed by soaking in very hot water to soften the epoxy. (I've tried it successfully on an old spinning rod.) Removing cork is another matter since it insulates the hot water and requires a mechanical removal method - just don't gouge the good part of the blank by grinding too deep into the handle. If the rod is broken inside the reel seat and outside the cork, removing the seat should allow a clean cut at the break and then build-out with a stent. Either way, you'll likely need to remove and install the reel seat. If it's under the handle, you'll have to replace the handle and reuse the seat.
Have fun.
(Share with us how the repair attempt plays out.)

 

[springer1]

An option is to cut the blank at the point the cork and reel seat meet. The stent can then be used to reinforce under the original break that you have as well as extending thru to under the reel seat. If you are using a section of an old unwanted rod blank, the taper would possibly make this work easily. If not, using masking tape in moderation over the stent where needed can take up any gap. I wouldn’t complete the entire process in one sitting, rather do under the break first and then affix the reel seat after that sets. If the break is under the cork and your cork is in questionable shape, now would be the time to replace it with new.

Several years ago I bought a beautiful Garcia Conolon No. 2636-A 7'-3", 2 piece with what the seller said had damaged cork. The cork was damaged but so was the blank underneath. So I repaired it using this same manner. Fixed like a charm. Good luck, keep us informed of how you proceed.

 

[JimNovo]

A picture of the “issue” would be great so see so we can understand the problem. Thanks.

 

[laszlo]

Correction, the break is 6 inches above the cork. I'll try and send a picture

 

[jeffroey]

Correction, the break is 6 inches above the cork. I'll try and send a picture

Pix would help but depending on the reel seat config, removing the butt cap may give you enough access to the blank ID to run a stent up from the end similar to setting a spigot ferrule. If you can do that, you could epoxy the upper end of the stent into the blank and maybe double wrap over the break to clean up the look.

 

[Vtsalmon]

I would try and remove the butt cap like jeffroey suggested if you can depending on your reel seat . I you can’t then I would remove the reel seat , I use a heat gun for this . Heat the seat up evenly and the usually pull right off . Also depending on the seat another option would be drill the end cap out start small and up size every other bit until you have acces to the blank then add you( spigot stent) when done glue in a Nice rod end plug .Pics of the break would help , would like to see what you are dealing with.

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

I would try and remove the butt cap like jeffroey suggested if you can depending on your reel seat . I you can’t then I would remove the reel seat , I use a heat gun for this . Heat the seat up evenly and the usually pull right off . Also depending on the seat another option would be drill the end cap out start small and up size every other bit until you have acces to the blank then add you( spigot stent) when done glue in a Nice rod end plug .Pics of the break would help , would like to see what you are dealing with.

You need to be careful with a heat gun if the Seat insert is cork or wood since dry heat can scorch some materials. Most of the epoxies used on rods will soften if soaked in water above 200 DegF for 10-20 minutes.

 

[laszlo]

Thanks all, coming up from the rear seems to be the only way to go. That's only way for the stent to have solid footing. I'll let you know how it went.

 

[Bamboozle]

...coming up from the rear seems to be the only way to go...

Hmmmmm...?

 

[jeffroey]

Thanks all, coming up from the rear seems to be the only way to go. That's only way for the stent to have solid footing. I'll let you know how it went.

One thing to keep in mind. Again, looking at it like your adding a spigot ferrule at the break.

In general, once you create the access to the end of the blank, you'll run your stent material up dry, mark it, remove it, cut it, coat the ID with epoxy (from the break point) and re-run the stent up from the bottom to set and let cure. If you've followed that progression, the one thing to keep in mind is once you set the stent with epoxy, it'll likely travel 1/2" or more further into the taper with epoxy than without. Just be careful not to cut grip site of your stent too short.

Don't hesitate to PM if I've confused you.

 

[jeffroey]

Since we've temporarily moved the conversation from rod building to rod breaking, I'll share something with you that just happened a couple of days ago:

Built this Trout Smiths Heritage Carbon 803-3 out at the beginning of January. Had the opoprtunity to fish it a couple of times . . . just enough to know that it was a fantastic 8' 3WT and that I'd be using it a lot this season. I've been keeping it broken down but lined by the back door so when I felt the urge, I'd assemble it and walk out to the backyard to form a couple of loops.

Cleaning lady was here Wednesday running the vacuum. Got a little too close and picked up the leader that was extending out of the tip and loosely coiled on the carpet. When she called me upstairs with apologies became obvious she wrapped the leader and the first 1/2' of fly line around the motor-driven floor brush before taking the tip section in and doing a good wood chipper impression.

No fixing this one.

I'm still sick about it. I reached out to Steve VanWinkle at Struble who bought the Trout Smiths line off of Shane Gray to see if he had a spare tip laying around he can sell me. If he doesn't, I liked this blank so much, I'll pobably build another one.

I wouldn't have hurt quite as much if a break like this at least happened on the water.

Oh and not to mention it was a WF fly line that needs to be replaced also . . .

 

[laszlo]

Dock her one months cleaning

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

Since we've temporarily moved the conversation from rod building to rod breaking, I'll share something with you that just happened a couple of days ago:

Built this Trout Smiths Heritage Carbon 803-3 out at the beginning of January. Had the opoprtunity to fish it a couple of times . . . just enough to know that it was a fantastic 8' 3WT and that I'd be using it a lot this season. I've been keeping it broken down but lined by the back door so when I felt the urge, I'd assemble it and walk out to the backyard to form a couple of loops.

Cleaning lady was here Wednesday running the vacuum. Got a little too close and picked up the leader that was extending out of the tip and loosely coiled on the carpet. When she called me upstairs with apologies became obvious she wrapped the leader and the first 1/2' of fly line around the motor-driven floor brush before taking the tip section in and doing a good wood chipper impression.

View attachment 1641235057

No fixing this one.

I'm still sick about it. I reached out to Steve VanWinkle at Struble who bought the Trout Smiths line off of Shane Gray to see if he had a spare tip laying around he can sell me. If he doesn't, I liked this blank so much, I'll pobably build another one.

I wouldn't have hurt quite as much if a break like this at least happened on the water.

Oh and not to mention it was a WF fly line that needs to be replaced also . . .

Here I was thinking that everyone who hired cleaning staff precleaned their place before the cleaners show up... at least that's what my sister-in-law does. That's a mess for sure... At least you have material for future repairs - or - you'll have a less fantastic but faster 7'-6" rod than before.

 

[JimNovo]

Since we've temporarily moved the conversation from rod building to rod breaking, I'll share something with you that just happened a couple of days ago:

Built this Trout Smiths Heritage Carbon 803-3 out at the beginning of January. Had the opoprtunity to fish it a couple of times . . . just enough to know that it was a fantastic 8' 3WT and that I'd be using it a lot this season. I've been keeping it broken down but lined by the back door so when I felt the urge, I'd assemble it and walk out to the backyard to form a couple of loops.

Cleaning lady was here Wednesday running the vacuum. Got a little too close and picked up the leader that was extending out of the tip and loosely coiled on the carpet. When she called me upstairs with apologies became obvious she wrapped the leader and the first 1/2' of fly line around the motor-driven floor brush before taking the tip section in and doing a good wood chipper impression.

View attachment 1641235057

No fixing this one.

I'm still sick about it. I reached out to Steve VanWinkle at Struble who bought the Trout Smiths line off of Shane Gray to see if he had a spare tip laying around he can sell me. If he doesn't, I liked this blank so much, I'll pobably build another one.

I wouldn't have hurt quite as much if a break like this at least happened on the water.

Oh and not to mention it was a WF fly line that needs to be replaced also . . .

Rest in Pieces Trout Smiths Heritage Carbon 803-3….😞

 

[jeffroey]

Here I was thinking that everyone who hired cleaning staff precleaned their place before the cleaners show up... at least that's what my sister-in-law does. That's a mess for sure... At least you have material for future repairs - or - you'll have a less fantastic but faster 7'-6" rod than before.

The kids hate cleaning lady eve. It's the only time they're required to clean their room. I never thought to move the rod.

 

[bigjohn358]

Since we've temporarily moved the conversation from rod building to rod breaking, I'll share something with you that just happened a couple of days ago:

Built this Trout Smiths Heritage Carbon 803-3 out at the beginning of January. Had the opoprtunity to fish it a couple of times . . . just enough to know that it was a fantastic 8' 3WT and that I'd be using it a lot this season. I've been keeping it broken down but lined by the back door so when I felt the urge, I'd assemble it and walk out to the backyard to form a couple of loops.

Cleaning lady was here Wednesday running the vacuum. Got a little too close and picked up the leader that was extending out of the tip and loosely coiled on the carpet. When she called me upstairs with apologies became obvious she wrapped the leader and the first 1/2' of fly line around the motor-driven floor brush before taking the tip section in and doing a good wood chipper impression.

View attachment 1641235057

No fixing this one.

I'm still sick about it. I reached out to Steve VanWinkle at Struble who bought the Trout Smiths line off of Shane Gray to see if he had a spare tip laying around he can sell me. If he doesn't, I liked this blank so much, I'll pobably build another one.

I wouldn't have hurt quite as much if a break like this at least happened on the water.

Oh and not to mention it was a WF fly line that needs to be replaced also . . .

I'd still throw a tip on that rod and have it as a backup. It would just be like a 7'4" and probably a 5wt or so now. Might be nice for throwing streamers on a smaller stream.

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

I'd still throw a tip on that rod and have it as a backup. It would just be like a 7'4" and probably a 5wt or so now. Might be nice for throwing streamers on a smaller stream.

Jeffro mentioned kids cleaning their rooms. It would make a nice starter rod for them to share.

 

[laszlo]

With a hacksaw I cut out the 4 inch broken section. I then removed the cork grip to get access to the blank and used an old rod section for a stent and epoxied

 

[laszlo]

The 4 inch space correction left a slight transition bump which I tried to fix with epoxy