Rod Building Question

[MD_Gene]

My chapter of TU may be having a rod building class. I was thinking of participating. I am pretty sure I will not get into rod building as another hobby just one and done.

My question is: I was thinking of getting a good blank (Sage Accel). Is it a good idea to pick a blank like this for my "first time out"? I would like a 6wt that I can use for tossing streamers for trout and big water bass.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[PennKev]

No. Don't spend a whole lot on your first (only) rod. There are many, many good blanks available in the 100-150 dollar range and many that cost even less. Shop around a little and see what Batson, Pacific Bay, Mud Hole, and others have to offer. Heck if you are into light line rods, Batson Forecast RX6 blanks are fantastic in lighter line weights and shorter lengths and cost much less than $150, as low as $40 or so depending on model.. Batson's recently discontinued line of RX7 blanks make for better mid weight and longer lengthnrods although they are heavier and slower than any current Sages. They can be had for a good price on clearance nowadays. Mud Hole MHX blanks have gotten good reviews and fall into the 100-150 range. They are comparable to higher end blanks from bigger names.

If you want a Sage right now, buy a sage or have one custom built by a reputable custom builder. Your first rod building project is not the place to throw a bunch of cash around. It's a learning experience and although you can produce a very nice rod on your first attempt, especially if you have someone watching over you, there is still a learning curve. I would recommend doing at least 2 or 3 rods before getting into high end blanks and components.

Kev

 

[bigslackwater]

I've built 6 of the batson rods ranging from a 6'6 2wt to a 10'7 7wt switch rod. All are fantastic rods. My number one rod is my 4wt 7'6" forecast rx6.

 

[bigslackwater]

I will also add that my first build was a learning process. It did not turn out very good. Learning to coat the guides with be your biggest challenge. Wrapping you can keep trying until you get it right but applying the finish is a time sensitive matter and you get one shot.

There is a guy on ebay that sells cheap kits. Look up fly rod kits by Roger. His kits come with everything you need. I've built a few of his rods and while they are cheap, they stand up to many other more expensive rods. One of his I use a lot, and has stood up to a lot of abuse. I've lost track of the number of times I almost broke that rod and it was fine!

 

[gfen]

Spend as much as you want, but be warned that some blanks aren't going to be warrantied like a full build.

That would be the deciding factor between giving Sage $700 and buying a blank for $300.

 

[outsider]

TFO warrants their blanks, albeit a mfr. defect warranty, not an all-inclusive warranty that includes stepping on it, etc. I really like their Finesse Series. The blank sells for approx. $90, and the complete kit approx. $135.

Note: the kit does not include threads or epoxies.

 

[beeber2]

You are better off starting with a lesser blank. Your first build will be functional but practice makes perfect. It can be done.

 

[outsider]

Or for even less money go here:

www.shu-fly.com/SHU_FLYblanks.html

I bought the 6'-6" 3 weight 3 piece rod. Yes, it is made overseas. But it turned out to be one of my favorite short rods. Hook a 9" trout and it feels like 12"+.

 

[Chaz]

My first rods were all Loomis high end rods, and they are still is use after 25 years. I also bought a Sage Blank and built that. I think you should should always get the best rod you can afford, that doesn't mean the most expensive necessarily. Always cast a rod like the rod you want to build before you buy the blank. Otherwise you may not like it later.
The most important thing is finding the spine, then comes the wrapping. Once you find the spine everything fairly eases long as you take your time. If you screw up a wrap, take it off and re-wrap it. Don't try to do it all in a short time, I think my first rod took about 6 weeks, worked on it one night a week, at the Anglers Pro Shop, in Souderton. Bill was very good to point out errors and showed me how to fix them. A rod Class is a good idea to get you started.
Check out MudHole.com They've got Sage Blanks fairly reasonable.

http://www.mudhole.com/Sage

 

[carl]

I agree that there are some great blanks out there for reasonably cheap and you shouldn't spend an arm and a leg for your first rod. Especially a one of the "major brand's" that have so much tied up in marketing and warranty.

Batson just redid their blank lineup, so I don't know how their new blanks are (I have one downstairs, just not built up yet).

I really like the PacBay Quickline series as an affordable Medium/fast to fast action blank.

 

[Chaz]

One other thing, you don't have to buy a rod online, I bought all of my blacks at a fly shop, reason being that after test the built rod and going to rod building classes at the shop I bought the blanks, I felt it was a great deal.
All my blanks were under $130. I built a Loomis IMX for just under $200, and at the time that was a top of the line rod.

 

[Tiogadog]

I have built several rods.. my advice is to pick a niche model for your first build. For example I built a 4 wt glass rod, a 6 wt with a fighting butt, and a 6 foot 2 wt....

These were models that were not readily available at fly shops or online. Frankly, the folks at Sage can way better rods than me, but sometimes I want something a little unique or different. That is where building your own has its advantages.

All of my builds cost under 150 and fish just fine. I am most proud of the fiberglass rod. The first rod I built is serviceable but does not get used that often.

 

[krayfish2]

You can do a TFO axiomkit for less than $150. Blank, grip, guides, etc. Look up Wayne or Ben at anglers habitat. That would be a solid streamer stick.

Here's the bvk kit.....

http://www.anglershabitat.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=14&category_id=349

 

[blueheron]

Depending on your level of eye hand coordination and attention to detail, you're first rod can be as good as any commercially wrapped one. You can rewrap any guides that you don't like the first time, I think that if you can precisely tie a fly you can accurately wrap a rod.
Use any blank you want, you can't beat a Sage.

 

[afishinado]

Here's a deal on rods kits that I received this morning from J Stockard:

http://www.jsflyfishing.com/fly-rod-building-kits?utm_source=November+2014+mid-month+deal+15%25+off+fly+tying+kits&utm_campaign=Nov+2014+mid+month&utm_medium=email

I also suggest you start with an inexpensive kit and build at least one rod before you spend money for a top-of-the-line blank and components . Good luck.

 

[Fishidiot]

Agree with those who suggest starting with lower end blanks.

I'm still using low end blanks after two decades of rod building.

 

[jbomb]

I'm sure they'll go over all the steps in your class, but I recommend "Fly Rod Building Made Easy: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide to Making a High-Quality Fly Rod on a Budget" by Art Sheck.

He has some interesting tips on selecting a blank. I've built both Batson and Pac Bay rods and I like them a lot.

Just remember that the warranty for the blank only covers the blank, so if anything happens you'll have to rebuild the entire rod.

 

[PENZZZ]

I'm in the lower priced blank and components camp, because with time fit and finish improves with each of your builds. But it's up to you. One thing you can do between now and the beginning of your class is visit Rodbuilding.org and Rodbuildingforum.com. View the pictures, pour through the posts until you somehow feel you know how to do this. There are many subtleties when it comes to rod building and by doing a lot of reading you'll at least have been exposed to them. Look at rods you own, look at friends' rods. Begin to picture what you want your rod to look like in advance of the class. I've taught rod building classes and people look shocked when you tell them they have to make decisions about their build. The thing I emphasize most to friends who are inexperienced builders has to to with thread wrap finishing. Hand any fisherman a rod and one of the first things he notices is the thread wraps. If you have time, study up on this and maybe even invest in some thread epoxy and thread. If at all possible, have at least a little experience with this aspect of building. It's the finishing touch for the rod you will be very proud of.

Good luck,
Jeff

 

[MD_Gene]

Will it be easier or the same level of challenge to build a 4 piece rod as opposed to a 2 piece? Is the process of finding the spine the same or more challenging with 4 pieces?

 

[PennKev]

No if anything, 4 piece is easier. The shorter sections are easier to handle, and you will not have to align a bunch of guides on a single section of rod.

(If you don't want to read the rest of this post, my whole point is that spine is not as important as some people would lead you to believe and you have choices in how to treat the subject. There is no wrong way to build in respect to spine. Your rod will cast fine.)

Do not get too wrapped up in the whole spine thing. Your blank is likely to be somewhat crooked. Assembling the rod so as to have the natural curve of each section aligned and then wrapping the quides along either the inside or outside of the curve is just as valid of a strategy as building according to spine IMO. You'll have to decide for yourself is you want a wonky rod built according to spine or a straight looking rod. Personally, I base my decision on how crooked the blank is. If it is pretty straight I will go ahead and find the spine. If it is crooked I align the guide along the curve so as to hide the imperfection.

Its a nice touch to be able to say you built a rod according to the blanks spine but the reality is that there is no noticable affect on the finished rod. On the other hand anyone can pick up your rod and see if each section is curving off in every direction.

By the way, I have not heard of any major manufacter that builds according to spine. Not Sage, not Winston, not Scott.

Also, there are no perfectly straight blanks. Don't worry about it unless your blank is really bad.

And to answer the original question, yes finding the spine is harder on a 4 piece but is really only difficult for the two heaviest butt pieces. Spine matters even less with these section, so again, its not a big deal. The ease of storage and transportation of 4 piece rids is worth any small amount of trouble.