new glass rod

This is my first build up from a blank. Finished the wraps, as in put a finish on the wraps? No , not yet, the tit guides are on but only one mid guide , I want to go light on the wrap coating, color sealer and I don't know what on top. The most I ever paid for a rod was $200 and that hurt, $400 for a blank set just isn't gonna happen. The $200 rod was a used Sage, I like my rods like my cars and guitars, slightly used but not abused. I also want them unadorned, like me. Eunan, you could wrap a rod in hand when you're comfortable with doing those flies, really, I find I pick it up often to complete various steps then just set it in the wrapping stand. I use an old herters vise.
 
gfen wrote:

Epic blanks are the shark jump of the fiberglass world.

They're also nothing more than CTS blanks. I suspect their tapers are modified somewhat, but they're all shat out of the CTS factory in Middle Earth.

The gold standard in fiberglass blanks are Steffan, there's better and there's worse but Steffan is the mark by which they are judged.

The biggest downside to building a fiberglass rod is the size of their butt ends. In some cases, you simply cannot find a reel seat to fit it (my Kabuto was too big for anythign but a custom cut wood seat or metal seats), and the fact that you'll be reaming out the cork handle for hours, especially if you can't jury rig something with a drill and a file.

The actual wrapping of the blank is easy, especially if you only use a single colour of thread. Take your time, and expect to re-do a couple of the guide wraps after your shoddy whip finishes fail during the ohter guide wraps.

I used a cardboard box for a few before I made my own stands from PVC pipe. I've done thread through a book for tension, but once I started to do trims, I actually use bobbins to hold the thread, and a fly tying vice (or free hang) to do the thread.

Any idiot can do this.
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I had to send a few things back to the place I ordered the parts and pieces from. The cork got pretty thin a the top but the winding check covered that. I also had to ream the reel seat to get it to fit.
Having a drill press makes all this easier than doing it by hand.

Gfen, we have to get together sometime and try each others rods. I always like the Kabuto blank. I can tell you the Steffen is really nice to cast.

Bill
 
Colour preserve is a whore, and unless you're fixated on using it (and you've chosen a muted colour, so I doubt it) I'd skip it entirely.

Without, your thread will darken and take on a semi-translucent state. It won't be clear (and that's good, coz IMNSHO transparent wraps are played out), but muted.

With it, you need to ensure that you get it to penetrate the thread completely. There's a chance you'll miss a spot, and its possible that due to the way you apply your finish, you may end up getting water into the wraps and it'll turn the CP milky until it dries again. The one rod where I have a problem witht his is a black blank, its very noticable.

People also suggest that CP doesn't allow the finish to fully penetrate the thread and makes the whole thing weaker, as well. YMMV.

If you used a CP thread, no CP is required, anyways.

Try putting some thread wraps on a bare section of your rod, then applying a thin coat of olive oil to them. This is generally abotu what you'll see when you apply finish to non-CP'd thread.

Flexcote Lite (or is it "low?" hell if i remember) is teh way to go for your finish. You can easily apply a second coat if required, where as the FC High goes on thicker.
 
NOS Gudebrod A in a very light color. I really don't want a thick finish on this rod and I wouldn't mind if the wraps went translucent. I 'm open to suggestions.
 
gfen wrote:

Epic blanks are the shark jump of the fiberglass world.

They're also nothing more than CTS blanks. I suspect their tapers are modified somewhat, but they're all shat out of the CTS factory in Middle Earth.
Click to expand...

But I really want a blue translucent rod.
 
Andy, you can order a glass blank from CTS to your exact specifications (tip over or spigot, number of sections, color, flex profile) for cheaper than an Epic. Remember that their website is in NZD not USD.

Steffen, Kabuto, and I'll add McFarland if you can find one to my favorites that I've cast.

Blueheron, that's a nice looking rod. You'll have a blast fishing it I'm sure.
 
Ha! Yes it is. When I talk to them on the phone it's hard to understand. Super heavy kiwi accents. They call me "Jiff".
 
Thanks for the head's up though. I also checked out the Steffen stuff.

I'm really not sure I want to plunge into rod building yet, but if and when I do, it'll be glass, and I want it to be unique.
 
blueheron wrote:
NOS Gudebrod A in a very light color. I really don't want a thick finish on this rod and I wouldn't mind if the wraps went translucent. I 'm open to suggestions.
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As I said, Flexcote Lite. You can apply a second coat if the first one isn't to your liking.
 
Everything is a 6wt, you only need 5x tippet, and flexcoat lite is da bomb...lol. Good info from Gary.

I like Threadmater lite as my rod epoxy, it seems to produce less bubbles and has a longer working time. I've used both TM & FC and they are both good.

Plan on two coats of epoxy. Apply a very light coat with the first one. You should still see the texture of the wraps through the epoxy on the first coat.

Keep your room temperature in the 70's. The viscosity decreases at a higher temperature. Some guys heat up the bottle with warm water before using it.

As soon as the epoxy starts to set up (like 20 minutes or so) mix up another batch and continue coating the wraps.

If you don't have a drying motor to turn the rod sections, turn the coated section 1/4 turn every few minutes to even off the epoxy. Do this for at least an hour or longer.

Do a second final coat that just smooths out the thread wraps. Put on the drying motor or rotate in 1/4 turns as above.

It's not that hard and if you mess up you can sand down a mistake or just rough up and recoat.

Good luck.

 
Afininado all ive ever used is FC lite build. Do you find curing times are similar or does threadmaster win in that category?

with working times I like that you stated threadmaster has a longer pot life.. I tend to glue up 2-3 rods at a time, and im pretty picky so sometimes I get jelled up before im done with the first coat..

I feel that would save me some coin if that's the case
 
Slinger, didnt mean to sound harsh!! Just sayin there is more to he flyfishing world than orvis and sage, which i assume you know, but others get sucked into the marketing bs! I agree its a good looking build! Trust me, I "get" glass, i rarely fish anything else
 
SlingerFlyRods wrote:
Afininado all ive ever used is FC lite build. Do you find curing times are similar or does threadmaster win in that category?

with working times I like that you stated threadmaster has a longer pot life.. I tend to glue up 2-3 rods at a time, and im pretty picky so sometimes I get jelled up before im done with the first coat..

I feel that would save me some coin if that's the case
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Hey Slinger,

Not that much difference between Threadmaster and Flexcoat in the pot life. For me, TM seems to produce less bubbles when mixed and the bubbles when formed seem to dissipate quicker.

From reading the Rod Building Forums out there, my understanding is ProKote from Mudhole has a significantly longer pot life than any of the others. I have never tried it. It's not the most important factor for me since I'm a hobby rod builder, but a pro rod builder like you may find it quite useful. You may want to check it out.
 
lol PRO. you sir are funny :)

its a hobby for me as well to a certain extent.. certainly doesn't pay the bills but gets me a reason to build different rods for myself.

I will certainly try it out next time I order. I usually get most of my stuff from mudhole, janns netcraft or the dreaded cabelas if I really have to.

 
afishinado wrote:
Everything is a 6wt, you only need 5x tippet, and flexcoat lite is da bomb...lol. Good info from Gary.
Click to expand...

And yet, when you strip away all the endless prospec circle jerking, that's pretty much true, isn't it?

That said, you forgot that anywhere you go, the only flies you need are Adamses and Hare's Ears, and no other fly is really neccessary.

 
" room temperature in the 70's" Tom, my heat is set at 60, I could always go down the basement and set up next to the heater. That is the finish I want, just enough to unify the wraps. I gave half a thought to using the spar varnish I repair bamboo with, then I thought better of it. Needless to say , I don't have a drying motor but I think a guy down the street does, maybe I'll use his.
 
Don't worry about a turning motor. You'll be spinning it while you apply the stuff, and then you just come back and periodicalyl turn it a half turn.

When I'm done with the first section, and working on the second I turn the first one a quarter turn each time I complete a wrap on the second.

When I'm done, I just set a timer and turn them both a quarter turn every 6 minutes for about a half hour, then every 8 minutes for about a half hour, then every 10, then every 20. Its overkill, but it works.

When you're done with your turns, leave it so the guides are on the bottom.

 
blueheron wrote:
" room temperature in the 70's" Tom, my heat is set at 60, I could always go down the basement and set up next to the heater. That is the finish I want, just enough to unify the wraps. I gave half a thought to using the spar varnish I repair bamboo with, then I thought better of it. Needless to say , I don't have a drying motor but I think a guy down the street does, maybe I'll use his.
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I would worry less about heat and more about humidity. If I had to choose between a colder but less humid room and a warmer but more humid area for finishing I'd go with the colder room. I've had humidity do weird things with Flex Coat. No trouble with other finishes, but Flex Coat brand in particular has caused me some headaches when trying to finish rods in a basement.
(Humidity being over 65% or higher in my basement depending on time of the year)

BTW, colder temps will just slow down the curing, unless we're talking stupid cold 40 degree temps or something. 60 should be fine for finishing.

Also, for what it's worth I've come to prefer RodDancer Threadmaster Lite finish.
 
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