Mid price and up

Be interesting to see what the fly rod suppliers are going to do now with the Trump tariffs. I'm sure fly rods were not excluded from tariffs.
 
Be interesting to see what the fly rod suppliers are going to do now with the Trump tariffs. I'm sure fly rods were not excluded from tariffs.
Having much manufacturing experience in China, I don't expect to see much of an increase. The suppliers and middlemen will eat most of the price increases.

In my case I'll be fishing too much in the next couple months to notice.
 
My wife bought a TFO BVK 8'9" 5 wt and casting it myself I think it is better than my Scott STS 5 wt. That was Scotts top of the line 20+ years ago and is still highly regarded by flyfishers. The BVK semms lighter and has quicker recovery. The BVK was $280 a few years ago and the STS original cost was $495 many years ago.
 
When this issue comes up in my group., a friend of mine tells a story about a guy he knows who likes to play golf. The guy was in an airport and had the good fortune to end up talking with Chi-Chi Rodriguez (though it could have been another big name pro from that era; my memory ain't what it once was). Anyhow, they get to talking and the guy tells Chi-Chi he's thinking about getting a certain set of high end clubs, and asks whether it's likely to help his game.

Chi-Chi's answer was essentially that if the two of them played a round with either the guy's current clubs, or the high end clubs, Chi-Chi was going to have the better score. And if Chi-Chi used the ordinary clubs and the casual golfer used the high end clubs, Chi Chi would still have the better score.

Short version: it's not the rod, it's the person casting it. Find something you're comfortable with.

My advice: for most East Coast fishing where you need to cast to trout 50 feet away or closer, get a soft action (slow) rod. Slow action is more forgiving when you are casting and mending your line is more gentle, which is important on small to medium size creeks. Slow 4 and 5 weight are my preference for these parts. For general fishing, I like a weight forward with the line weight equal to the rod weight (4wt rod - 4wt WF line), but for a delicate presentation, I like to go one up on a tapered line (4 wt rod - 5 wt DT or T line).

But if you love the long cast, get the fastest rod you can keep up with.

Personally, the thought of breaking an expensive rod (even though I've broken very few rods in my time), would keep me from enjoying any bump up in quality.
 
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The key is finding a shop where you can cast their rods. Fewer and fewer such shops these days.
And of those inventories seem to be shrinking as well.

I remember going to Flyfisher's Paradise back in the day looking for a rod. Steve fixed up half a dozen rods and left me take them all out on the grass to try. Not many places do that anymore.
got the same treatment from FFP 20 years ago. He instructed me to try different casts and distances. Also got advice on how I "looked" casting the rods.- to cut off the smart a** comments - he was looking at how smooth the stroke was, how much I labored to punch it etc. I think that these not bad criteria and getting this feedback, together with feel, led to a purchase of my favorite rod of all time.
 
got the same treatment from FFP 20 years ago. He instructed me to try different casts and distances. Also got advice on how I "looked" casting the rods.- to cut off the smart a** comments - he was looking at how smooth the stroke was, how much I labored to punch it etc. I think that these not bad criteria and getting this feedback, together with feel, led to a purchase of my favorite rod of all time.
As I said, I am going to be picking up a new rod soon. Does FFP still allow lawn casting? I haven't been in there as much as I used to be, and I have always like Dennis, but I don't like the shop as much as I used to, either, when Steven ran it.
 
To be honest, the value you get from expensive rods is pretty subjective. That said, there are certain situations where the benefits feel more objective—especially when you're casting long distances and dealing with added variables like wind or current.

Most of the time, I do just fine with budget-friendly rods. But where my gear tends to fall short is on the Delaware River, targeting spooky fish from afar. I’ve floated it a few times with a fantastic guide and had solid results using an old St. Croix Ultra 9' 5wt. Still, I ran into a few tough situations—particularly when the fish were holding tight against the wind—and my setup struggled. The guide handed me his Orvis Helios, and I’ve got to admit, making those casts got noticeably easier.

Same goes for saltwater. Long casts in the wind are tough. A skilled caster can make almost any rod work, but in those more demanding moments, high-end rods really do make a difference.
 
Most companies have intro rods that are a little softer so they advertise them as forgiving. I like forgiving rods as well. With modern rod technology hard to get a real lemon. The rocket fast expensive rods take more skill to get the most out of them. Timing needs to be perfect or the cast will fall short; softer rods don't require the same excellent timing.

Somewhat agree with the salt. Recently bought a reasonable ($300) Echo Boost 10 wt for a trip to Cuba and it performed great. The thing I look for in salt rods is good hardware because salt can sure harm the metal parts. Most of my salt rods I built largely to be sure to get corrosion resistant components.
 
Orvis Recon, Loomis IMX-Pro, Scott Session, and Sage Sonic/Foundation are all mid-produced rods made in the USA. For me it’s worth a couple hundred $ more for that reason (and they are all great performing rods). It’s interesting that is not a bigger selling point for many on this forum...

I am solidly in that camp with tackle and most other things (like tools)...

Although with fishing, I do have some exceptions when it comes to reels and conventional tackle because of options and preferences.

I own more than a few "Made in England" Hardy reels and I will only buy "Made in Japan" spinning & casting reels & specialty rods because what I am after isn't made here.
 
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Anyone have any experience with Chippewa River Custom Rods? Veteran owned and operated business, made in the USA and a decent price point (most in $300 range). I've seen a lot of great reviews regarding his musky rods, but not much information about his streamer or dry/nymph rods. I'd imagine the quality would be similar for all rod weights to an extent, but I'm looking for any personal experiences. Thanks!
 
Most companies have intro rods that are a little softer so they advertise them as forgiving. I like forgiving rods as well. With modern rod technology hard to get a real lemon. The rocket fast expensive rods take more skill to get the most out of them. Timing needs to be perfect or the cast will fall short; softer rods don't require the same excellent timing.

Somewhat agree with the salt. Recently bought a reasonable ($300) Echo Boost 10 wt for a trip to Cuba and it performed great. The thing I look for in salt rods is good hardware because salt can sure harm the metal parts. Most of my salt rods I built largely to be sure to get corrosion resistant components.
I find that the case with traditional rod fng's. But not ow end entry level rods on places like Amazon.
I'm constantly buying and trying cheap rods, and I have a number of "Amazon" rods that, if I were blindfolded, could not differentiate from my better Sage rods.

I wonder if they name brands do this to encourage up buying?
Orvis being an exception.

Reddington being the worst. They sell more low end noodles than my local supermarket.
 
The nice thing about the high-priced rods is that you can pick them up on the 2nd hand market for half the price, if not more...

Sometimes, but not always...

I own some 20 year old graphite & glass rods that were top dog rods in their day that I routinely see selling on the used market for a couple of hundred bucks more than I paid and not because I paid next to nothing.

It's because they were great rods in their day and still are great rods and there isn't anything available that is comparable on all levels so there is still demand, happily at a higher price point. 😉

IMHO, the important factor is how many choices there are at all levels, the reputation of the rod and rod company and how high the price point goes at the upper end.

With all of the options at all price points that there are today, I am pretty confident that today's $700 - $1000 graphite or glass rods will be a bargain in a few years.

If you CAN wait and don't have to fish with the latest & greatest, you are golden...

If you MUST get a new smartphone every time there a newer version...

You are doomed. 😉
 
That’s an excellent little fly shop, btw. 👍
And Bob Selb is a peach of a guy. I bought my last rod from him, an Orvis "99" excellent trade and sale, very fair on both ends. We talked for a good while, very pleasant guy. And that shop, the smells and stuff brought me right back to the shops of my teen years.
 
I haven't bought a graphite rod since 1995, at that time it was a low-end GLoomis Venture. Nice 8' 5wt handled everything I needed it to do, paid the princely sum of $195. Rod design was the same taper as the upper models but with less expensive hardware. The fish didn't care. On a few guide trips I've fished the guides low end Orvis rods, they were fine as well throwing dries and droppers on a medium sized creek.

Between it and a few other Orvis rods I doubt highly I'll ever buy another graphite rod for trout or bass.

Now BAMBOO....that's a whole different addiction! 🙂 🙂 🙂
 
Sometimes, but not always...

I own some 20 year old graphite & glass rods that were top dog rods in their day that I routinely see selling on the used market for a couple of hundred bucks more than I paid and not because I paid next to nothing.
If you go a bit older there are many good rods for not much $$. Over the past year I’ve picked up a raft of barely used, late 60s and early 70s, 6 to 8.5ft, fenwick and browning/silaflex fiberglass rods for around or under (some well under) $100 each. These weren’t top dogs, but they’re very nice and not so dear that I’d be too upset if I wrecked or lost one.
 
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And Bob Selb is a peach of a guy. I bought my last rod from him, an Orvis "99" excellent trade and sale, very fair on both ends. We talked for a good while, very pleasant guy. And that shop, the smells and stuff brought me right back to the shops of my teen years.
I’ve stopped buying tying materials online as that little shop has damn near everything. It’s not the best organized, but packed with stuff, and the prices range from reasonable to cheap.
 
Sometimes, but not always...

I own some 20 year old graphite & glass rods that were top dog rods in their day that I routinely see selling on the used market for a couple of hundred bucks more than I paid and not because I paid next to nothing.

It's because they were great rods in their day and still are great rods and there isn't anything available that is comparable on all levels so there is still demand, happily at a higher price point. 😉
True, I have SP590 and Super Fine 7/11 in that same category.
 
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