Leaders?

I start with the tippet end, wrapping the leader around three fingers, tucking the looped butt section around the leadr coil several times until secure..

Coils eventually go away in time, but you could try straightening it out with a piece of leather. I wouldn't use rubber though, burns the mono.

Some times coils can help with drag, less line in the water.
 
dryflyguy wrote:
use 2 small pieces of a bread wrapper tie
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You mean a "twistie tie"?? lol

thats atleast what I have always called them :-D
 
jayl did u ever try it ? the heavier middle sections pulls the lighter hinge section down quicker , causes no more drag than a tappered leader
 
troutslammer wrote:
jayl did u ever try it ? the heavier middle sections pulls the lighter hinge section down quicker , causes no more drag than a tappered leader
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I don't use tapered leaders for any subsurface application.

I have experimented with different diameter lines, and found that larger diameters prevent sinking.

My guess is that the increased drag may have pulled your fly down faster, but... well... it's at the expense of increased drag.
 
it seemed to me when i tried it as a friend recommended it , that the thin line up top at the surface cut through the current with less drag and the weight of the heavier mid section helped pull the fly down quicker , i usually use just streight 4lb fluoro for nymphing but it did seem to sink quicker to me
 
My typical nymphing set-up is a short (4’ +/-) furled leader butt that I build, greased with Muscilin, with a straight fluro tippet attached (usually 3x or 4x). The tippet is typically 2x the water depth. The furled leader butt is actually an extension of the fly line. I try to keep the leader on the surface and I use it as my “sighter” for strike detection. Sometimes I’ll swipe some strike putty on the leader for better visibility.

I prefer to use weighted nymphs (2 or 3) but may add or remove small split shot or tungsten putty to fine-tune the drift. In faster, deeper water, when you get your rig balanced properly, you can use the sense of feel as well as sight. It’s really like a Czech nymphing setup. I’m fishing with all tippet in the water, because as Jay pointed out, heavy line in the current will definitely create drag on the flies and also make strike detection tough.

The thing I really like about the whole system is, since I use the same furled leader for fishing dries, I can easy change over and fish the surface without much bother. This furled leader rig really works well for me.
 
I use a 7.5 foot Rio leader (3x) and if streamer fishing add a 2 foot 4x tippet; if nymph fishing I cut the 4x section to 12” and add a 3 - 3.5 foot 5x tippet; and if dry fly fishing I generally tie a 4 foot section of either 5x or 6x directly to the 4x section giving me about an 11 foot leader. If I really have to go to a smaller tippet because of fly size I’ll cut back the 5x/6x section to 12” and then add 3 – 3.5 feet of 7x or 8x and if I really need a long and light leader I will start with a 9 foot Rio leader (2x) and build out to 15 – 18 feet.

As for drag, most of the time when you’re nymph fishing you’re fishing the tippet only. You should be targeting specific small sections of water and not trying to cover as much water as possible. You’ll have much more success fishing a 100 foot section of stream by fishing it in twenty 5 foot sections than five 20 foot sections.
 
I coil them the same way sundrunk does use four fingers and tuck the loop end around three time they will uncoil just fine as for storage i have an old leader wallet , even has a side for soaking cat gut but i keep it just cause it was my dads , as for storage try manilla coin envelopes , the small ones , you can write on them too and they fit in the pockets of a leader wallet , I use maxima for the whole deal and formulas given to me by Bob Clouser and some i got from reading George Harvey , if you'd like to see some let me know and i'll dig them out and post them. I know Bob wouldn't care that's just the kind of guy he is.
 
osprey wrote:
I coil them the same way sundrunk does use four fingers and tuck the loop end around three time they will uncoil just fine as for storage i have an old leader wallet , even has a side for soaking cat gut but i keep it just cause it was my dads , as for storage try manilla coin envelopes , the small ones , you can write on them too and they fit in the pockets of a leader wallet , I use maxima for the whole deal and formulas given to me by Bob Clouser and some i got from reading George Harvey , if you'd like to see some let me know and i'll dig them out and post them. I know Bob wouldn't care that's just the kind of guy he is.
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I really like how Bob Clouser loops his butt sections with the mid/tippet. It's nice to just have to tie mid and tippet sections. Clouser leaders are classic big fly tappers...
 
sun. Those mid/tippet tapers are money. Saves a lot of time and I have no problem using them for all types of fishing. In addition to throwing streamers, they're a prefect leader for switching between nymphs and dries.
 
I tie my own leaders, using various formulas. They all consist of a heavy but section, tapering down to whatever size tippet your using. I always use about 3 feet of they last size tippet im using. This cuts down on the drag and presents the fly well. Jayl is right though, the lighter the tippet, the faster the sink rate. The stiff butt helps turn over bigger flys. They do tend to coil when storing on my reel, but I use a leader straightener on it, any peice of soft rubber will work.
 
A little off topic but do y'all use a nail knot or braided connection to attach leader to fly line , just curious. I do it both ways (not that pete) no matter how much anyone likes the braided nylon and shrink tubing connectors i think y'll be wise to learn how to tie a nail knot.
 
I use a nail knot usually, except I tie it with a short piece of a straw rather than anything resembling a nail. I have just tied loops in both (if they don't already come with them) and gone loop to loop. I have had no problems doing so.
 
PD to PD about right
commercial knotless leaders with 3 foot tippet.
 
There are places where knotless is the way to go, thinking the letort, or still waters with lots of veg.

Nail knot...

Any one use an arbor knot backing to spool?
 
I sue that to connect backing to spool yes. Was easy and effective.
 
I also use the arbor knot to connect backing to spool.

I've been using braided loops ever since they came out, and have never had a problem with them.
However - after reading all the posts about most guys using a piece of mono with a loop, nail knotted to the fly line - I've been trying that for the last few years. And I can't really say that it's worked better for me.
In fact, just last month, I had a nail knot connection break on my 3 weight line. It cut thru the fly line. But maybe I just tied a bad knot.
 
as someone pointed out earlier , knots in leaders pick up vegetation in the stream , i use the cortland loops and clinch knot to it for different types of situations , i find it is easier to tie on when your hands are cold rather than a blood knot this time of year , but each to their own
 
The braided loops have failed on both me and Afish, and I'm sure plenty of others. Use them at your own risk.

I arbor knot the backing, and whip finish/knotsense a loop in the end of the fly line.
 
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