First off, I wouldn't tye leaders until your casting is down. This is your first year right? If you aren't getting windknots anymore, I want to know who taught you to cast! The down side of hand tied leaders is that when you get a wind knot, that's it. There's no untangling it. With a knotless, you might be able to pull it free once or twice.
That said, I your under absolutely no obligation to take advice from anyone. So to answer your question...
I like to tie up dry fly leaders 60% maxima chameleon and 40% orvis superstrong. That's to say, the butt section and down to just past the mid point should be maxima chameleon. It's heavy, stiff stuff. It should turn over like a jack hammer for ya. The rest, I like to use Orvis superstrong. It's a consistency I like. It's sort of a midpoint in the continuum of limp to stiff.
For nymphing or streamer leaders you can tie in more maxima. That might help with the "chuck and duck" of a heavy fly.
So if you get the tippets in the diameters specified in leader calc for the leaders you want to tie, and you have that blood knot tool you're good to go.
Oh, and I always tie my leaders down omitting the final tippet. That's to say, if I wanted a 9' 5x leader, I'd leave the 5x off. And then I would end with a perfection loop. When I get to the stream, I would pull off the appropriate amount of 5x to finish the leader, put a perfection loop in that and do a loop to loop connection. When that tippet got a little short, I'd swap it out. (Stow your waste mono in a pocket or ziplock bag) I always considered that last piece of the leader the tippet.
And if it gets tough to do the blood knots with the really light mono... use a surgeon's knot. It's plenty strong, and only kinks the line a little.