Help choosing a do it all fly rod

Side arm casting is also a serviceable way to cast in the direction opposite your dominant side - by loading on the casting stroke and throwing on the back cast. Works a lot better than trying to cast with my other (left) arm.
Bringing your arm across the body and casting on your non-dominant side is backhand casting. And that can be done near vertically, or with a sidearm (horizontal) motion.

Sidearm backhand casting; always a good time. Seriously though, I use that a LOT on small streams.
 
The most famous sidearm MLB pitcher I could easily recall.
Dear Swattie,

Ummh, did you forget Tekulve? He wasn't a true sidearm pitcher, but I'll bet he could work a fly rod on a small crick easily.

Regards,

Tim Murphy 🙂
 
Sounds like you are doing a roll cast to get your line in position. Then doing a "water haul" on the final forward cast.
That's it. I'm not familiar with much of the casting terminology. Works for me in tight spots. Would like to exercise some of those mentioned casting techniques, maybe if I'm on a spot with less things to get my flies tangled up in.
 
I may be an odd one out here, but I have a 7,6 flueger probably from 1980s, dad's old one. I can't find any information on them online, but it's a two piece five weight and in my beginning stages it was a blessing. Casts drys and streamers extremely nice and then I normally just ran a indicator for nymphs.
 
I may be an odd one out here, but I have a 7,6 flueger probably from 1980s, dad's old one. I can't find any information on them online, but it's a two piece five weight and in my beginning stages it was a blessing. Casts drys and streamers extremely nice and then I normally just ran a indicator for nymphs.

Short 5 or 6 weights are cool. I have an old 8’ 5wt Orvis Clearwater I love. It’s a great streamer rod for high water on small streams.

Also have my grandfather’s old 8’ 6wt Fenwick. I’m scared to fish it though. Have it hanging on the wall in my office at work.
 
Dear troutbert,

It's something you learn intuitively after digging enough flies out of trees. 😉

Seriously, to quote Gunny Highway from "Heartbreak Ridge", "Improvise, adapt, overcome!"

Regards,

Tim Murphy 🙂
how true. I am self taught. I fished some busy streams in central MA years ago and pick up an upward vertical cast. I learned years later it is a version of what is actually called a steeple cast. I picked up some bad habits not being "formally trained", but not being shackled by the conventional has served me well too.
 
Warranty is definitely a concern. I do want to protect my investment and keep the rod as long as I can.

First off, congratulations on the new rod!! Enjoy!!

2nd, going forward don't get too hung up on warranties, ESPECIALLY if you aren't a "rod breaker," take care of your gear and plan to keep tackle for a long time.

Case in point, I only broke one rod in my life about 15 years ago which wasn't my fault on a recently discontinued fiberglass rod under warranty. In this case I lucked out, the manufacturer still had blanks in inventory and my only expense was my shipping costs to send back the rod for the repair.

IF that same thing happened today with the same manufacturer, I would incur my shipping costs to send back the rod, $150 for the repair plus return freight charges or about $200 more than I paid for a warranty repair 15 years prior.

However IF the rod wasn't under warranty and it happened today, the cost for repairs is only $175 or $25 more than a rod under warranty. In addition, if that happened today I know the manufacturer no longer has parts so I would get a replacement rod that in this case is impossible because they no longer manufacture fiberglass rods.

A similar situation exists with the graphite rods I own from the same company that are also under warranty. All have been discontinued, no blanks are in stock so I will get a replacement that will be NOTHING like the rods that broke.

In essence, in 2025 I'll have to pay $200 for that replacement rod that I won't like even though I already paid a premium price for that rod with a warranty when it was originally purchased...

And who knows what the warranty charges will be in another five years?

Bottom line, IF manufacturers offered me the same rod with NO warranty at a discounted price, I'd choose that option every day of the week.
 
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First off, congratulations on the new rod!! Enjoy!!

2nd, going forward don't get too hung up on warranties, ESPECIALLY if you aren't a "rod breaker," take care of your gear and plan to keep tackle for a long time.

Case in point, I only broke one rod in my life about 15 years ago which wasn't my fault on a recently discontinued fiberglass rod under warranty. In this case I lucked out, the manufacturer still had blanks in inventory and my only expense was my shipping costs to send back the rod for the repair.

IF that same thing happened today with the same manufacturer, I would incur my shipping costs to send back the rod, $150 for the repair plus return freight charges or about $200 more than I paid for a warranty repair 15 years prior.

However IF the rod wasn't under warranty and it happened today, the cost for repairs is only $175 or $25 more than a rod under warranty. In addition, if that happened today I know the manufacturer no longer has parts so I would get a replacement rod that in this case is impossible because they no longer manufacture fiberglass rods.

A similar situation exists with the graphite rods I own from the same company that are also under warranty. All have been discontinued, no blanks are in stock so I will get a replacement that will be NOTHING like the rods that broke.

In essence, in 2025 I'll have to pay $200 for that replacement rod that I won't like even though I already paid a premium price for that rod with a warranty when it was originally purchased...

And who knows what the warranty charges will be in another five years?

Bottom line, IF manufacturers offered me the same rod with NO warranty at a discounted price, I'd choose that option every day of the week.
Thank you. You make a valid point. I really would have liked to have bought a Scott in the 8'6 5wt configuration, however they do not make the session in that model. I like how they build their rods and I've heard many good things about them. If I decide I want another rod down the line, I'll definitely be looking at Scott. I really have any experience with Orvis rods and my first redington path. I have no issues with the Orvis rods and my superfine is the most enjoyable rod I've used. I do wish that Orvis made most of their rods look like the superfine instead of the Helios and recon designs. I prefer the old school classy look over the tacky modern look.
 
flyguy93:

Scott makes a nice rod but you made a good choice...

If it makes you feel any better, I own a bunch of older Orvis bamboo rods (fly, spinning and one casting), an older 8'6" 6wt Orvis graphite rod and exactly ONE Orvis rod that came with a long expired 25 year warranty.

I have never needed a repair except simple refurbishments on three of the bamboo rods and those were done for extremely reasonable prices and made the rods like new again. Despite buying nothing new from their line up in a long time, I have nothing but good things to say about Orvis.

Have fun with the new rod!!
 
Dear Swattie,

Ummh, did you forget Tekulve? He wasn't a true sidearm pitcher, but I'll bet he could work a fly rod on a small crick easily.

Regards,

Tim Murphy 🙂
Teke had a very unusual delivery, whatever it was.
They used to call him the rubber band man, from a song that was popular at the time
 
If I wanted a single fly rod for PA trout fishing, I'd go for a 9' 4 weight. If I wanted a single rod for fishing everything, it'd be a 9' 6 weight.
 
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