Fly Line

[Bamboozle]

1+ on the link Afish posted. Simple and it mirrors the advice I usually offer.

I bought a couple of cheap 2-gallon paint buckets at Walmart that I use strictly for cleaning fly lines at home. One for soapy water water and one for a rinse. They are also a convenient place to store the other cleaning supplies. When I’m on the road, I have a couple of sponges in a Ziploc bag which suffice along with extra soap & “treatments.”

In regards to silicone or other dressings; plain silicone paste as is used on flies or other stuff is OK I guess, but how that differs from using something not fly line specific like Armor-All is questionable. Also, silicone paste or gels are sticky and if you don't wipe off the excess, you just give the dirt something to stick to.

I stick to what the manufacturer recommends or offers which most often are liquid dressings. While there are many fly lines out there, there aren’t many manufacturers. Scientific Anglers, Rio or Cortland make most non-manufacturer fly lines so if I’m not sure who made a line and/or it’s a store brand, I’ll call and ask or stick to one of the dressings sold by those three manufacturers.

 

[Baron]

I have pure silicone that I used on a motorcycles Crome and tank paint for years and it held up well. I would think if I sprayed it onto a rag and ran the dried line through my hands that would work.

 

[Bamboozle]

If it's good for motorcycles, it must be OK for fly lines... :roll:

You might want to look at the MSDS and see what else is in it besides silicone...

But, it's your fly line, do as you please.

 

[afishinado]

Baron wrote:
I have pure silicone that I used on a motorcycles Crome and tank paint for years and it held up well. I would think if I sprayed it onto a rag and ran the dried line through my hands that would work.

My advice to anyone about "dressing" a fly line is clean it first and see how it performs / floats. Modern lines, at least the ones made my most of the major US manufacturers, have a lubricant infused in the lines and really need nothing added for them to perform well.

If you line does not float well after it is cleaned, then using some sort of line cleaner/floatant may help. But like Bamboozle said, it's best to stick with the brands made by or recommended by the manufacturers or you may end up ruining a perfectly good fly line. I've done that myself (with Armorall) a long time ago and will not make that costly mistake again.

Good luck.

 

[Baron]

Well well well, a guy can't cut any corners withe you two around:lol:

 

[JoeE]

Does anyone have or cast a 406 fly line? I have been reading about them but haven’t pulled the trigger on one. Joe. E

 

[Bamboozle]

I’ve cast one although it’s not my plastic line of choice. I have never heard a complaint from those that use them regularly.

They are very nice lines, true-to-weight, standard tapers (DT & WF) with welded loops and slightly thinner, made to spec for 406 by SciAngler’s with moderate action fiberglass & bamboo rods in mind.

In other words, if you are using a Rio Gold or SciAngler’s Mastery MPX on a fast action graphite rod you probably won’t like the 406.

 

[lestrout]

Yo Jo - I have the 3, 4 and 5 406 lines, but have only ffished the 4wt. So far I mostly used it on glass and bamboo, and find them as Bamboozle described. It is a bit more forward than my Peach and Hook & Hackles. I have to try it (them) out on some graphite too.

 

[BrookieChaser]

You can just spray the spooled line with spray silicone in a pinch if it's not shooting.

I've used Cortland, Rio, and SA lines. I prefer the SA but Cortland has been a close second, and more budget friendly. I won't buy anything Rio again. The Cortland line I have was $40, casts great on the rod, and has been fished in coldwater, warmwater and saltwater from PA to FL.

 

[salvelinusfontinalis]

This is an area iam very meticulous about. Here is a trick an old timer taught me.
It is very simple though.

After each and every outing do these steps.

Unspool line on a clean flat surface like wood that is free of anything to catch it. Dont do it on carpet, it will get dirty when greased.

Straighten line kind of like you would a leader but without pulling to hard or too much friction. No heat.

Apply something like aquel to paper towel.

Straighten line again going through paper towel. Do this 2 or 3 times.

Respool line.

It will always be clean , greased and ready to go. Make sure you do it after each outing. Otherwise you will have to take more steps to keep it clean. Also do it to brand new line.

I have been doing this for many years. It will not only extend flyline life but also casting distance.
I also do apply a very light coating to my rods and eyelets after each outing.

Try it, you will be surprised. And no damage. In fact i think one of my spools has Cortland Spring Creek WF3F on it for 5 or 6 seasons now. Still looks brand new. I dont fish as much as i used to lately but enough to have wore it out by now if i did nothing.

 

[jifigz]

To the first part of the question, I don't clean my lines.....ever. I fish relatively inexpensive lines, don't clean them, and still get a few years outta them. I like Cortland 444 and if you want to go cheaper SA AirCel will work. Honestly, on my bass rod I use Cortland Fair play. The line works great. It gets a little stiff in folder weather. Fairplay is a real bargain, seriously, and for bass fishing you needs nothing else.


Either way, Cortland 444/peach is typically my go to.