Fly Fishing Rods and Reels?

[Big_Tay]

Hey everyone I am relatively new to fly fishing and enjoy it very much!! I am starting to expand in the different types of fishing that I do. I was wondering how to pick or go about buying new reels and rods? I am starting to get interested in steel head but am not sure what length and weight of rod or size real to buy because there are so many different variations in length and weight... The same with salt water fishing? Would anyone be able to help me out or guide me when it comes to buying new rods or reels for different types of fishing.

I check this site frequently and find it very helpful!

Thanks!

 

[pcray1231]

For steelhead streams, a 6 or 7 wt is ideal. Generally longer is better for lifting line over currents and such to get drag free drifts. As far as action, want some backbone for fighting them, but a soft tip is nice to protect often relatively fine tippets. A 10 ft 7 wt, moderately fast action with a soft tip would be my ideal. Though I have done it with a standard 9 ft 5 wt and it's a little underpowered, but doable.

Salmon is a little different and I'll defer to others, think you'd want a heftier rod, though.

For the salt, where in the salt and what ya fishing for? That's just too wide a category. Surf fishing along the jetties? Wading the bays? Boat? Flats for bonefish and tarpon?

I'll defer to those more knowledgable, but think you're gonna get answers more in the 9 wt range.

 

[Big_Tay]

Sorry for not clarifying. For salt water I will be fishing in a boat and from land for stripers in the ocean specifically in NJ.

Thanks for help and advice! I really appreciate it!

 

[gfen]

When I told people I was going to surf for stripers in the surf, they lead me over to the 10wt rods and pressed a 9' fast action model into my hand, then sold me an intermediate full sink line to go with it.

What I discovered with this combo is I couldn't cast for crap. A bit of a clinic developed, and I could cast better, but it was tough. After a day of trying to fish this monster in a boat, where the guide had brought 8wt 9' rods, I had developed a blistered claw for a hand.

The next year I went back out with a 9' 8wt rod (loaded with the aforementioned 10wt line, I like 'em slower). I can cast that guy all day long and I'll be sore, but not like it was. Fishing through a bay multiple times, I found that 8wt rod was far more pleasant to cast, and I could use it that much easier from the big 10wt rod.

When I go back this year, I'll take that 8wt rod, plus a 7/8wt 7'6" rod. The 7/8wt will be primary, as I love to use it, the 8wt will play backup with 10wt sinking line on...that thing was pricey, damnit, I'm gonna use it.

The 7/8wt line went to the Gulf coast with me this year, and I fished the hell out of it for the cruising snook. I'm confident it would've been more than enough rod.

Reels? Pflueger Medalists. YMMV. They sold me a Cabela's XSS with my rod, and I'm sure its more than ample as would any number of reels out there, but I'm confident in saying you don't need a Tibor or an Abel, you just need to take care of what you use. They say 200 yards of 30# backing is important. I wouldn't know, but I'd like to find out...

 

[jayL]

gfen wrote:

The next year I went back out with a 9' 8wt rod (loaded with the aforementioned 10wt line, I like 'em slower).

:lol:

 

[pcray1231]

Regarding reels:

As always, the #1 thing is the reel needs to balance the rod properly for casting purposes.

For any big fish, any species, anywhere, a smooth drag is a big help. Not so necessary on 10 inch trout, but necessary for big fish.

Also, a large arbor makes things nice for big, fast fish. Not necessary, but nice. The reason is big fish sometimes run towards you and you have to keep the line tight. A large arbor means you can reel in line with fewer turns, hence keep up with a charging fish better.

For any reel in salt, make sure you oil it well before going, and clean it well afterwards, or it will corrode.

 

[jayL]

My experience with anything with over ten pounds is that gary's right that the medalist will work, but wrong that it's sufficient to have any kind of regular success. If I'm driving to a destination to fish, I pack the reels with drags to justify my time and expenses. Plenty of affordable, smooth, sealed drags are available in a wide array of sizes, shapes, colors, and prices. Suggesting to a beginner that a reel that took all kinda invasive modifications (as cool as it is) to make big fish-ready is all you need is a bit silly, IMO. I love my medalists, but unless you value form over function, they will disappoint you significantly on anything that needs a drag.

That said, he's certainly right about the abels and tibors, which are mere functional conversation pieces imo.

 

[gfen]

They sold me a Cabela's XSS with my rod, and I'm sure its more than ample as would any number of reels out there, but I'm confident in saying you don't need a Tibor or an Abel, you just need to take care of what you use. They say 200 yards of 30# backing is important. I wouldn't know, but I'd like to find out.

A carriage return would've made all the difference. Looks better that way, eh?

Jersey isn't suitably exotic enough I'd drop mad cash on a super reel. If it were Patagonia, I might be willing to concede you need a Lamson, Orvis, Ross or other reel with a good rep to back it up rather than model-of-the-year from Beijing Al's Machine House with a big box or little guy's name etched on it.

(also, the 1498 is factory fresh from 1958, untouched by Dremel or man's stupidity)

 

[Tiltaxp]

I have a used tibor if you're interested. It's a heavy duty reel and will take a pounding, if you take care of it, it will LAST... to me that's important as if I am out on a boat or making a trip somewhere I don't need to lose a fish because my drag broke or seized. I bought the tibor for salmon/steelhead fishing but who am I kidding, i've used it 3 times and had the pin out the rest of the time. I need another pin instead of this in my lineup, so if you're interested and want to check it out it's sitting at the feathered hook in coburn and i can email some pics.

 

[Big_Tay]

I am not going to buy anything at the moment but wanted to start doing some research!

 

[Big_Tay]

Thank you everyone! I appreciate all the comments and helpful advice!

 

[Fishidiot]

Big Tay,
I fish the NJ shore a good bit for stripers. When canoeing or wading the back bays I usually carry a 9' 8WT with a floating line. For surf and jetty work, which I prefer to bay fishing, I use a 10WT or 11WT with a fast sink shooting head. Some guys use 8WTs on the jetties but I don't recommend it - you'll likely get smoked and busted, esp in the fall months. For jetties you'll likely be throwing big flies in a heavy wind with ripping current and waves. A fish the size you're holding in your avatar (or a 10# bluefish) will smoke you in the surf if you use an 8wt. A 9WT is better but still on the light side for jetties IMO - it's a good compromise rod if you're looking for one rod for the salt.