Fluorocarbon versus Nylon

[wbranch]

For decades, for dry fly fishing, I have been using a 9' 4X tapered leader with a piece of 5X fluorocarbon 3' or 4' long. (or a 5X leader with a 6X tippet)

This year I have been omitting the fluorocarbon tippet and just using a piece of Rio 4X 3'-4' long. I have noticed no difference whatsoever in the amount of rises I have been getting or the number, and size, of the fish landed.

I was wondering if anyone else has experimented with fluorocarbon versus nylon and if so what were the results of your testing.

 

[afishinado]

Here is a lengthy discussion on here with a great link to a great article about fluoro vs nylon > here

I generally use fluoro tippet for nymphing and nylon tippet for dries.

 

[moon1284]

I dont notice a difference either

 

[nymphingmaniac]

I do the same as afish.
Fluoro has superior abrasion resistance;thus, I use it underneath.
nylon stays on the surface better, is little more supple and cheaper.

 

[troutbert]

I just use nylon all the time.

Simplify. It means less stuff to buy, store, carry along when fishing. And less tackle fidgeting.

 

[joebamboo]

I too see no difference. Furled leader with mono tippet works for me both on top and underneath.

 

[martin0206]

I really feel like fluro is better for dry fly fishing if you're in slack water. I switched last year and really think I've done better with dries in slack water due to the visibility. If there's any kind of current or broken water I don't think it makes a difference.

 

[PALongbow]

Depends on the clarity of the creek you are fishing. I spoke about
the use of fluorocarbon in the Keystone Fly Fishing book in regards to Fishing Creek Columbia County. I have fished it for 40 years and we always had to use some type of tippet that blended in since the creek is so clear. Huntington Creek which is right next door doesn't require fluorocarbon to be used since the water is somewhat stained in color. I have fished right next to other fisherman that have not used it and we had the same flies, split shots, indicators etc and they were not catching fish. They switched to fluorocarbon and started catching fish. Proved this out on three different occasions on Lake Taneycomo tailwater in Missouri, Yellow Breeches and Fishing Creek where there are pressured fish and clear water.

Ron

 

[3oh4]

I notice one huge difference that keeps me buying fluoro:

The stretch! I can't tell you how many fish I just put intense pressure on to keep them out of rocks and debris. The fluoro holds and the mono breaks whether be b/c of the pressure or an abrasion. I keep trying to go back to mono b/c of the cost but it just doesn't hold up like fluoro. I had an epic Memorial Day last week - Never lost a fish and really put the pressure to some big fish fights, I run out of my 4x Fluoro... I hook up with another rather large brown trout on 4x Mono - it goes on a suicide run downstream and snap goes my tippet and had another 15" fish break off. It just doesn't give!

 

[PennKev]

3oh4 wrote:
I notice one huge difference that keeps me buying fluoro:

The stretch! I can't tell you how many fish I just put intense pressure on to keep them out of rocks and debris. The fluoro holds and the mono breaks whether be b/c of the pressure or an abrasion. I keep trying to go back to mono b/c of the cost but it just doesn't hold up like fluoro. I had an epic Memorial Day last week - Never lost a fish and really put the pressure to some big fish fights, I run out of my 4x Fluoro... I hook up with another rather large brown trout on 4x Mono - it goes on a suicide run downstream and snap goes my tippet and had another 15" fish break off. It just doesn't give!

So you are saying that you believe fluoro stretches more than mono?

In general, I disagree, although it is possible a particular fluoro stretches more than mono. Fluoro is actually popular in bass fishing circles, in part, due to it's lower stretch when compared to mono. While fluoro does have some stretch, in my own experience, it is noticeably less than mono.

Regardless of stretch, fluoro is my go-to tippet for fishing sub-surface and I've used also used it with success fishing dries. However, I often grease the leader and tippet except for the last 6-10 inches.

 

[PennKev]

I just found this:

Fluoro Info

Turns out we're both right about the stretch in fluorocarbon lines.

 

[3oh4]

Hey I’m not completely out of my mind.

 

[krayfish2]

Fluoro for nymphing because it's a little stiffer, tangles less / untangles easier and a bit more abrasion resistant. Mono for dries.

 

[simonmichel]

Hello, thanks for your article! Yes, we know fluorocarbon is less noticeable in the water, which expands the chances that a tricky fish won't see your leader, and it is more scraped area safe or abrasion resistant which will enhance your chances of getting a substantial trout on a light tippet. I personally used Berkley Trilene Fluorocarbon 100FL Leader Material Line. It had originated in 4-20 lbs. of break strong point with 25 yards of distance or length. The line accompanies 100% restrictive PVDF equation which contributes this fluorocarbon fishing line eventual strike quality.

 

[maxima12]

good posts, all are right. fluoro is a little tricky in building leaders. too much dia. difference it want's to slip. I like fluoro with a 2000th. diff no more between line sections, using blood knots. 1000th better.

fluoro always seems to bind when attaching swivels, flys. for me anyway.


do use it. the main two I use is Maxima and Sunline Siglon. Why, because, I can get them in 2600 yd. bulk spools
.

all said, i personally think it's a fishermans choice. I personally see no diff in fish caught. But i sell a lot of fluoro leaders. It runs neck to neck on 1st 4 sections Maxima Chameleon, last 3 fluoro. All fluoro wet fly leader 2 drops, fish 3 flies. both popular.


Fisherman are always right. If you like it. It's perfect to me.


I do think if i was buying a 27 yd spool. I would choose seaguar.

 

[simonmichel]

I really feel like fluro is better for dry fly fishing if you're in slack water. I switched last year and really think I've done better with dries in slack water due to the visibility. If there's any kind of current or broken water I don't think it makes a difference.

Djefeezy

 

[WildTigerTrout]

I use fluorocarbon for underwater(nymphs, wets, streamers) and mono for dry flies.

 

[pcray1231]

I've done actual experiments in aquariums and such, lol. Keep in mind there's fluoro, mono, AND copolymers. Most tippet materials are copolymers, even if we call them mono. Some leader materials, like Maxima, are truly mono's. But for the sake of using standard terms we'll call the typical copolymer tippets to be "mono".

Visibility - Fluoro is slightly less visible under water. The difference depends somewhat on conditions. The advantage is lost on the surface, if anything mono is less visible there, I think because it floats higher and a smaller diameter is in the actual water. I've looked from underneath in aquariums. So the fluoro for nymphs, mono for dries has some merit.

Stiffness - There are differences between brands of both, and some overlap. But generally speaking mono's are more supple, fluoros stiffer. If fish are drag shy as opposed to line shy, as is the case most of the time, mono will generate more strikes, fluoro will cast easier. You can determine suppleness by cutting a few inches of each to be compared and clamping them in a fly tying vise. Which hangs lower? That's a more supple material. I like my leaders stiff and my tippets supple, personally.

Abrasion resistance - Fluoro better. Again, fluoro for nymphs, as you get less degradation from rocks and such over time. Plus, toothy critters, fluoro = better. I like fluoro for BIG trout, for instance, think steelhead, as well as toothier non-trout species. It's not quite steel wire but it's better than mono for this. If hooked up to a muskie I'd much rather rock fluoro than mono.

Density - fluoro denser than mono. Will get nymphs to the bottom slightly better. Mono will float a dry slightly better. We're not talking worlds of difference here.

Stretch - fluoro stretches less. That's good if tight line nymphing, you're more "in touch" with the fly. For big fish like steelhead though, having some stretchy mono somewhere in the leader, maybe not the tippet, acts as a shock absorber on head shakes and quick runs. I've actually seen people tie in rubber bands for this stretch affect.

In the end, I use mono for 90% of my trout fishing for the suppleness. If I know I'll be nymphing all day I might switch up. Steelhead trips get fluoro. Beach trips get fluoro.

 

[Sylvaneous]

fluoro is stiffer and way more expensive. That is the only difference you will ever be able to detect. Notice I said 'detect'.
Syl

 

[Bamboozle]

Once I started using fluorocarbon on my conventional reels, I never looked back.

The biggest reason I switched from mono to fluoro for ALL of my fly fishing is I hate how easily mono flat-spots, causing curls & kinks that are about impossible to get out. I don't have those issues with fluoro. Mono also twists up much worse.

As far as limpness goes, just like everything else it depends on the brand of fluoro you use. I only use Seaugar and Orvis Mirage and really don't have any issues with presentation that would ever give me a reason to go back to mono.

As far as cost goes, I figure the amount of my cigar that burns up while I tie in a new fluoro tippet far exceeds the cost of the 24" of material I'm adding, not to mention the cost of the gas that got me there.

At $ .50 a YARD, there are a whole lot more expensive consumable tackle items in fly fishing to lose sleep over.