First prince
- Thread starter mute
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MKern
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On stout hooks like that I leave out the bead and use the longer style hooks for beads that way the fly still has a normal body and room for the bead. This is just my preference though.
One thing to try to not pile thread up at the bead is use less wraps and more tension to secure the materials. Or use smaller thread, like 8/0.
One thing to try to not pile thread up at the bead is use less wraps and more tension to secure the materials. Or use smaller thread, like 8/0.
MKern
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Also, when I use beads, I try not to build up anything right behind the bead (thread, materials, lead). Then that leaves me a littel extra space when getting ready to tie everything down and finish the fly.
Plus practice never hurts (unless you have a bad habit of sticking yourslef with the hook).
Plus practice never hurts (unless you have a bad habit of sticking yourslef with the hook).
tomgamber
Well-known member
When I tie off behind the bead I do two things that help pull the thread kinf of inside the bead...first after I make my last wraps behind the bead, I try to spin the bead and find you can create some space and the bead is not as tight as it originally seemed. I also never whip finish my bead heads...I usually just tie half hitches right behind the bead and then pull the thread in the opposite direction unti l it settles in under or inside the bead...
other than that its not horrible...I'd worry more about that piece of herl that is closing off the hook gap though...keep doing it...
other than that its not horrible...I'd worry more about that piece of herl that is closing off the hook gap though...keep doing it...
skiltonian
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not horrible - better than my first few -
keep telling yourself - less is more.
thats what worked for me.
also when gauging your hackle, use the hook gap as a guide for length - in this case with soft hackle use 1.5 times - i'd recommend you go with a regular hackle
I think you did a good job on the wings which imo is the hardest part. next tie try moving them up towards the bead to achieve a better body profile and slim the body profile down a bit.
as for the tail - use half the length you did
use a burgady (darker red, but not fire engine) thread and keep some wraps expose under the tail - I sometimes think it acts as an attractor :-?
try to wrap your wire at 45 degree angles to better imitate segmentations
Keep up the good work and glad to see your tying.
keep telling yourself - less is more.
thats what worked for me.
also when gauging your hackle, use the hook gap as a guide for length - in this case with soft hackle use 1.5 times - i'd recommend you go with a regular hackle
I think you did a good job on the wings which imo is the hardest part. next tie try moving them up towards the bead to achieve a better body profile and slim the body profile down a bit.
as for the tail - use half the length you did
use a burgady (darker red, but not fire engine) thread and keep some wraps expose under the tail - I sometimes think it acts as an attractor :-?
try to wrap your wire at 45 degree angles to better imitate segmentations
Keep up the good work and glad to see your tying.
flyfishermanj
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- Sep 13, 2006
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Not bad, definitally better than my first few!!! It gets easier from here, the first is always the toughest. Listen to the guys, it's all good.
JH
JH
Mute,
I am a beginner tier and I am in the process of learning the Prince. I learned a trick when tying the wings. I glue them together first so they are as one when tying them to the hook. I don't know if this is something you should do, but it works for me. Those wings are the hardest part of the whole fly.
Troy
I am a beginner tier and I am in the process of learning the Prince. I learned a trick when tying the wings. I glue them together first so they are as one when tying them to the hook. I don't know if this is something you should do, but it works for me. Those wings are the hardest part of the whole fly.
Troy
flyfishermanj
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If it works for you, then do it. The result is the same!
JH
