Fighting/Landing Steelhead

iceyguides

iceyguides

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2009
Messages
311
So i'm pretty new to steelheading. I just landed my first few steelhead on a 3 day trip to erie over the 2nd weekend of december. It was fun, but frustrating breaking off and losing so many fish. I landed about 1 out of every 4 i hooked. I used 3x fluro exclusively. Will 2x help me catch more fish or is a low success rate just part of the game? I think i just need to learn to put a lot less pressure on the fish. I realize losing some steelhead sort of comes with the territory-big fish on small hooks and light tackle will enevitably lead to pull outs and break offs, but i'd like to be more efficient. Anybody have good tips for fighting steelies?
 
iceyguides wrote:
So i'm pretty new to steelheading. I just landed my first few steelhead on a 3 day trip to erie over the 2nd weekend of december. It was fun, but frustrating breaking off and losing so many fish. I landed about 1 out of every 4 i hooked. I used 3x fluro exclusively. Will 2x help me catch more fish or is a low success rate just part of the game? I think i just need to learn to put a lot less pressure on the fish. I realize losing some steelhead sort of comes with the territory-big fish on small hooks and light tackle will enevitably lead to pull outs and break offs, but i'd like to be more efficient. Anybody have good tips for fighting steelies?

Your success rate seems to be about average to me. Make sure your tying good knots. I crapped the bed the other day because of bad knots and beat up tippett. Check your leader, hook points and Tippett often. I have caught myself fishing a hook with no point more than once.

Enjoy it!
 
Tie good knots and check your knots and tippet often. You won't lose many fish on fresh 2x or 3x if your knots are good. However, the nature of the shale stream beds is such that your tippet will take a beating and need re-tying and replacement more often than you might be used to doing.

But most of all, learn to tie good knots. You should not be able to easily break your knots with your hands when using 2x or 3x. Don't even start casting until you've tested your knots and are satisfied they are secure. Some fluoro is tough to tie securely so find a knot that works well on your brand of tippet and practice tying it.

As for fighting the fish, as long as your knots are secure you should be able to put a lot of pressure on them with no trouble when using 2x and 3x. Fish that throw your hook are another problem, but not as frustrating as break offs IMO.

Kev
 
I havent fish nothing more than 5 pound florou tippet. I use alot of side pressure and alternate it frequently. Knots are were the problems come. Your knots and wind knots from tailing loops. And remember to push the rod toward the fish if it jumps.
 
Good advice so far but if you didn't know this already....Set the hook and get your fish on the reel with the drag of the reel. Only use your hand on the reel to adjust your drag. Holding your hand on the reel to play the fish applies uneven pressure to the line allowing it to increase/reduce the tension in of the line. I typically have the drag tuned so I can still strip line but tight enough so I don't have to mess with it initially after I hook up. Also make sure not to have alot of line hanging off the reel, only enough for casting/presentation, as this gets in the way when they run and once they get to the end of your slack they will snap your line.
 
Like others said, make sure you check your tippet for frays and tie good knots. Try a triple surgeon’s knot for a tippet to tippet connection. It’s a good strong knot. I believe it is stronger than a blood knot. Wet your knots before you tighten them to prevent friction which will weaken the knot. If tippet is frayed, change it out. It will break if you hook a hot fish.

Once you set the hook, get the fish on the reel. When the fish wants to run, let it run. Allow the drag to do its job. You want the drag set tight enough to give adequate resistance, but not so tight that the fish breaks off rather than pulling line off the reel. I made the mistake of setting the drag too tight a couple of times when I first started fishing for steelhead. It took a couple of lost fish to realize what I was doing wrong.

When fighting the fish, use the butt of the rod, not the tip. Apply side pressure. Here is a blog post from Alaska West that has a good video about fighting big fish. They are discussing salmon on a spey rod, but these tactics are applicable for steelhead with a single hand too. You’ll never have to apply the kind of pressure those guys do to land a chromed up king. The video is good because it illustrates how to use the butt of the rod to apply side pressure on the fish. There is a link below the video to another post on top 5 mistakes on fighting big fish. In this post, the guys from Alaska West discuss using the butt of the rod, not the tip.

http://www.deneki.com/2011/02/spey-fishing-fighting-fish/
 
Lots of good advice. I think side pressure is very important to landing fish. If you don't control the fish and use side pressure to get the fishes head towards the bank the fights will last much longer and you'll lose more fish. And always use the heaviest line you can get away with, I usually use 6lb fluoro, depending on the conditions of course.
 
i second what pacofransico said, side pressure !!
 
First, use the trilene knot.
Second, if you are having alot of break offs and you know the knot was good then your drag was set too tight and you should have your buddy smack you for being such a dunce. Technically, I believe drag should be set to 25%-50% of your line's breaking strength.
Third, if you are having hooks pull loose and you can try using larger hooks. Tie a size 18 egg on a size 14 hook for example, or get a wider gap hook.
 
I use 3X leaders to 5x dropper fly on a 6wt rod for steelhead.
Important all Knots need to be lubricated as you are clinching them tight. The heat will compromise the strength of the knots.
Use your real for drag then get the rod horizontal and use the rod to fight the fish. Change up the directions you are fighting the fish(keep the fish off balance).
Watch a veteran steelheader land a fish.
 
what rod length/wt are you using? 3x is probably the heaviest i use on the salmon river and it's a lot of force... my bet is bad knot
 
Keep your rod tip up and work your drag. Keep fish out of fast water with side pressure.
 
I used a 9ft 6wt the first day and landed 1, but the other 6 i landed on a 9ft 8wt. It was probably poor knots or nicks in the tippet. There was a ton of ice which probably damaged my tippet. My hands were so cold and i was retying so often that the knot quality probably wasn't my best either. I just don't think i'm cut out to be a steelheader.
 
Overall, when I steelhead fished a lot, my landing rate ran better than 50 but under 75%. That'd be poor for any other type of fishing, but it's just reality. Bout half the lost fish were break offs, half were throwing the hook.

Are you more frustrated about spitting hooks, or breaking them off? They are different problems.

Break-offs - Yep, 2x will help your landing rate, but may cut down your hookups too. Whether you can get away with it depends on the situation, water clarity, current speed, etc. Knots are important. But most of my breakoffs were very early, when the fish makes it's first run while you're still trying to get it on the reel. It's tricky. Try not to have too much slack line. You have to "hold" the line or else it goes slack, but you don't want to "hold" it in place while you reel in slack either. You kinda have to use your hand as a drag, keeping the line tight to the fish, but letting out line if he wants to go.

Once on the reel, then it's equipment. Technique lands the fish more quickly, but you're relying on equipment to keep it from breaking. Make sure you have a decent reel with a smooth drag, and set it appropriately. A soft rod tip is an advantage to absorb quick runs and head shakes. You can achieve the same thing by using a MONO leader. Now, I use fluoro tippet for steelhead, there may be something to the visibility thing, but even if not, the superior abrasion resistance helps with steelhead teeth. But fluoro has zero stretch. The thicker sections of my leader are mono (Maxima chameleon) and the stuff stretches, which gives you some extra shock absorption.

If that's not working, change the brand of tippet. Not all are the same. Some brands get brittle when cold, I had an experience with that which was very frustrating. For steelhead, I mostly use Seaguar.

Then there's the landing of the fish part. I suck at tailing fish, they take off, and you get that last run, which is dangerous. I tend to beach em, but you gotta be careful and do it smoothly. Slide, not lift. Once half the body is out of the water or in very shallow water so that it can't swim, then you can grab it without it taking off.

As far as fish throwing the hook. The main culprit for me is slack line. They run at you faster than you can reel and put some slack in it. A large arbor reel helps you keep up. But mostly, it's just staying aware during the fight.

And side pressure. Always keep that pressure to the fish's side. If it runs at you or away, the rod goes left or right, not up. If it's showing you it's side, then rod up or towards it's back, never towards it's front. Change angle of pressure commonly, keep steady, heavy pressure. Don't horse him in, have some patience, but don't let him rest either.
 
And never let the line get too long! You don't want to fight the current too. If he takes off up or downstream, go with him!!!!
 
"I just don't think i'm cut out to be a steelheader."

Hey, don't count yourself out so soon! You'll improve your land to hook ratio but I just don't think it will ever be as good as your land to hook ratio is for trout.

I hook a lot of steelhead but sometimes I'd swear I have no point on that fly! I seldom break tippets because I often examine my tippet - just run your thumb and index finger down the tippet and you'll be able to feel any frays that you don't see.

I think one of the biggest reasons we don't land more is that our flies often are in the #14 - #16 range and the gape on those hooks is pretty small. If the steelhead doesn't get the hook instead the mouth, past the upper and lower mandible I think that the bone is thicker/wider than the gape of the hook and the hook just won't really penetrate past the barb.

So you will be fighting a fish that isn't really hooked but just being held on with the point of the fly and the tension of the rod. Once there is a relaxation of that tension when a fish jumps or runs towards you the hook comes free and there goes your steelhead.

It is frustrating to lose so many - one day this fall I hate to admit it but I hooked eight steelhead on ten casts and only landed one of them! I was about to throw the switch rod into the creek and my buddy was laughing his butt off because he hooked and landed three while I was practicing hooking them.

But it is still a lot of fun and my most favorite type of fly fishing after dry flies for big trout.
 

Attachments

  • Happy Angler (300x295).jpg
    Happy Angler (300x295).jpg
    95.1 KB · Views: 4
Back
Top