I gave you a rather short, cryptic, reply earlier this morning, but as I said there is a lot more information on dyeing on the internet. Here is one pretty thorough response from several years back to another person’s question about dyeing. It was from a few years back on another fly fishing forum that I’m a member of, the Washington Fly Fishing Forum:
“As Charlie mentioned, use a good acid dye (it is called acid dye because it uses white vinegar-an acid-to set the dye to make it water-fast). Also, you should get a bottle of a product called Syntrapol, which is a combination detergent (it cuts the grease and dirt found in feathers, tails, and furs) and dye dispersant (it makes sure the color is saturated throughout the feathers, fur, or tails).
Never, ever use RIT dye! I know A.K. Best wrote a book and a revised copy of a book on dyeing in which he advocates the use of RIT dye. However, the problem with RIT is it is a so-called union dye; i.e. it is comprised of many different types of dyes-some that work only on cellulose (like cotton), some that work on rayon, some that work on nylon, etc. In other words, there is a lot of different dye types in a package or bottle of RIT that is useless for protein based materials like feathers, fur, and tails. This mixture of various dye types also means it is hard to get consistent results with RIT unless you first mix it into a liquid (which A.K. says is how he uses it) and it takes a lot more of it to get the shade you want. You also have to be very precise and close with how much of each shade of the liquid RIT mixture you use and very precise in how much material you dye or you won't get what you expect.
You could also use unsweetened Kool Aide as a dye because it has acid dye in it for coloration. Yes, this means that acid dyes won't kill you if you ingest a small amount of it. Anyhow, the problem with using Kool Aid is that you have to use the whole package in the dye bath and there is a lot more flavoring in the package than there is dye.
Acid dyes are really the best way to go because they avoid the problems of RIT and Kool Aid.
I personally don't use Veniard's dye because most of the colors of Veniard's dye are mixtures of different colors and in some cases not just mixtures of different colors but of different acid dye types (which set at different rates) as well. Thus, it is difficult to get good, consistent colors and shades from most of the Veniard's dyes.
Instead, I use Jacquard's, Fly Dye, Wash Fast, or Kiton acid dyes. All four of them are excellent and produce very good colors with a very high degree reproducing the exact shade or color you got the last time you used it provided you use the same amount of dye powder and water in your dye bath. Some shops carry Jacquard's or Fly Dye; however, all of them are readily available through on-line source. Jacquard's can be gotten through Dharma Trading Company; Fly Dye can be gotten through Fly Dye (Anglers Workshop in Woodland, WA carried Fly Dye); Wash Fast and Kiton can be gotten through Pro Chemical & Dye.
Use about 1/4 teaspoon of dye powder with 2-2.5 quarts of water to make a dye bath (double this to 1/2 teaspoon dye powder with the same 2-2.5 quarts of water for black). I measure the dye powder with plastic or stainless steel measuring spoons. Also, use a stainless steel or enamaled pot to make sure you get true color dying. Add the dye powder to very warm water (about 150-170 degrees) and stir it (mix it) with a wooden stick (a piece of 3/8" dowling works well and it cheap) until completely mixed and dissolved. DON'T BRING THE WATER TO A BOIL WHEN DYING. Add 1/4 teaspoon of Synthrapol to the dye bath and enough white vinegar so you can smell it (around 1/4 cup if you must measure the vinegar) before you put the feathers, fur, or tails into the dye bath. Then add the material you are going to dye, stir it occasionally, and in about 15 minutes it will be dyed (in fact, with the four dyes I mentioned -except for black, which takes 30-45 minutes- the dye bath will look nearly clear or at least very much lighter at this 15 minute time point). Then takes it off the heat and rinse it in warm (not hot or cold) water until the water runs clear. Place the material on newspaper (not full color newspaper) to dry overnight, and you are done.
The best way to get a color or shade that you cannot find in a vial of dye, it to use the overdye process. For instance, fiery brown is a tough color to get unless you dye first one color and then overdye with the other color. A great fiery brown can be gotten by first dyeing with Jacquard's chocolate brown, rinse until the water runs clear, and then dye again over the chocolate brown with Jacquard's pumpkin orange. Wash Fast chocolate brown and bright orange will produce the same wonderful fiery brown. Another example of overdying, you want to have a nice, very dark purple. First dye with Lilac (or better yet Wash Fast #17 bright violet), rinse, then overdye with navy blue. This produces a beautiful very dark purple (which used to be known as Venitian Purple).
Anyhow, this short explanation on dying will get you started properly and help you avoid problems. Also, keep notes of what you do because this will help you reproduce what you did the next time.”
Everyone's suggestions on dyeing will probably work. It’s just that some will probably work better, or may produce better results than others. Some dyes will cost more than others, and might take more time. You can decide which one to use, and have fun!
p.s. Who dyed that deer hair in your Mulberry fly? 😊
