DIY Studs for wading boots

JVenezia

JVenezia

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Joined
Apr 5, 2012
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238
Has anyone ever used hex head sheet metal screw on their boots instead of buying sole studs at a huge cost difference? And if so how well did they work?
 
http://www.paflyfish.com/forums/Open-Forums/Gear-Talk/motorcycle-screws-in-your-wading-boots-/3,36280,528005.html#forumpost528005
 
I have...a cheaper pair of boots I bought one time came with them...lower end Cabelas house line I believe. First time out with them I fished a couple pools up on a steep, plunge pool, tannic Poconos stream, skating across the larger rocks the whole way. Sat down on a rock and took them out immediately.

They're darn dangerous IMO, especially on big wet rocks and boulders. They're fine in gravel and cobble sized stuff, but that's not generally where you slip anyway. Wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

I think the screw head size creates too large of a surface area causing you to skate. As opposed to a smaller, finer surface area that concentrates your weight more on its point causing it to dig and grip.
 
^ I agree, and don't recommend either. Only headaches for me, and after they dulled up pretty good, it was worse with out them.

 
Work great on ice.
 
I've used them.

To be clear, what Swattie says is 100% true when new and on flat rock. But it's largely true with any studs. If the rock is hard enough that studs don't "bite" into it, studs suck, you're better off without them.

But if you do have them, then they better dang well be worn down enough that the rest of your sole at least makes contact. NEW studs are far worse than properly worn ones. But sheet metal screws do wear down quicker than carbide studs.

Anyway, yeah, the ones sold by wading boot manufactures are pricy. The most common thing people will tell you is to try Kold Kutters. The price initially looks high, but note the package sizes. $20 bucks for 250 of them, not 16 or something. You now have studs for the rest of your life, lol...

http://koldkutter.com/products/kold-kutter-screws-size-8-1-2-3-8-1-1-25


 
In my opinion they are inferior. They wear quickly, don't bite as well, and if worn down too far, are a pita to remove. For a cheaper alternative look at the kold kutter spikes or goat head spikes.
 
Been there, done that. The hardware store sheetmetal screws will work, but they dont last very long and they dont seem to bite as well.

I've had awesome luck with Kold Kutter motorcycle tire studs. They last longer than the hardware store screws and they bite better. You can scoop em up for 25$ shipped for 250 of em on ebay.
 
I agree with most have said. Ive used sheet metal screws and they work in a pinch, they do not bite that great and they wear down quickly. Havent tried the tire studs but that may be a good option seeing as you get a heck of a lot more of them for the same price as you do buying actual boot studs
 
I don't really put a price on slipping and falling in the water. I just keep my mouth shut and pay the price for carbide and aluminum cleats and stick to the stream bed and go home dry without my knees and ankles hurting from constantly slipping around.

Pro-tip: just buy a bunch of other stuff along with your cleats and throw away the receipt before you see how much you paid for them.
 
Pro-tip: just buy a bunch of other stuff along with your cleats and throw away the receipt before you see how much you paid for them.
Click to expand...

This may be some of the best advice ever on this site.
 
steveo27 wrote:
Been there, done that. The hardware store sheetmetal screws will work, but they dont last very long and they dont seem to bite as well.

I've had awesome luck with Kold Kutter motorcycle tire studs. They last longer than the hardware store screws and they bite better. You can scoop em up for 25$ shipped for 250 of em on ebay.
Click to expand...

I also use the Kold Kutter studs. They are a lot cheaper than the ones you buy at a fly shop so you can change the often.
As someone said in an earlier post, all studs a very slippery on flat rocks so be careful when you use them.
 
i have experimented with different studs and placement for a few years.I only put in 6 on each boot:three around the heel edge back and three around the front toe.Nothing any place else.

IMO this minimizes the skater effect.I fish a lot and replace studs on all my three sets of waders at the end of the season
 
Ive used Kold kutter studs my self not only in my wading shoes but about 1500 hundred of them in my quad tires.They work good just watch the are sharp when they are new.
 
AFISHN wrote:
i have experimented with different studs and placement for a few years.I only put in 6 on each boot:three around the heel edge back and three around the front toe.Nothing any place else.
Click to expand...

That's makes good sense. I may try it. I feel like when I do skate with studs, it's the ball of my foot that does the skating. Put the studs under the toe and heel for when you need to dig in, but let the rubber make contact under the ball of your feet for when you don't. I like it, in theory...gotta try it in practice.
 
AFISHN what type of studs do you use?
 
I’ve tried everything on my Chota STL’s.

Anything that is purpose made of hardened steel (Chota STL, Kold Cutter, Gold Ice Screws, Goat Head) bite like nobody’s business when new BUT when worn down they all suck, which means you have to keep an eye on them and replace as necessary.

They are also so sharp (except the Goat Head) when new they can cut a fly line clean in half if you step on your line by accident…

…don’t ask how I know… :oops:

Hardware store screws work for less time and don’t bite as well but they are cheap, especially if you buy them on eBay.

Carbide studs bite almost as well and wear great; however, they are slippery as hell on very hard smooth rocks, especially rock with a high quartz content. They can also chip or the carbide can fall out or break off which means you will have to replace them eventually.

Bottom line, you can save money or your arse initially but if you just “screw ‘em and forget ‘em”, (pardon the pun), you may be disappointed in any stud.

For the last several years I have been using the Orvis PosiGrip carbide studs because of the design and for longevity reasons. I like them a lot except in places where I don’t like carbide. At those places I wear plain felt OR a combination of studs in the same shoe.

For example, at one particular creek I fish where even the carbide tip of my Folstaf skates off the huge rocks and ANY stud almost guarantees a fall…

…don’t ask how I know…:oops:

I have been taking the Orvis PosiGrip carbide studs and swapping them with hardware store ½” #8 hex head ALUMINUM sheet metal screws. Of course, the aluminum wears out fast but I buy them by the 100’s on eBay on the cheap and they bite like nothing else.

At other places where carbide is OK but not ideal, I swap SOME of the Orvis PosiGrip carbide studs with Kold Cutter, Goat Head or Chota STL's which don't slip as badly as carbide on really hard rock, or aluminum if I want to be sure.

I value not falling more than time or money so I always have several kinds of studs (hardened, stainless, carbide, aluminum) and a ¼” nut driver with me in my wader bag. If I am fishing unfamiliar waters or familiar spots where my regular carbide studs may not be the best choice, it is worth the 180 seconds it takes to swap out a few studs to get the maximum grip.
 
For the folks who use Kold Kutter... what sizes and lengths do you use? PCray - I noticed you linked to size #8.... what length do you use with those? Will they fit any boot? I've got Reddington's I'd like to try them out on. I currently use sheet metal screws, but they wear down pretty darn quickly.

Thanks!
 
raftman wrote:
For the folks who use Kold Kutter... what sizes and lengths do you use?
Click to expand...

I use 1/2" #8. That seems to be the standard size of purpose made wading shoe studs. If you are concerned about the point poking through you can file or grind that off pretty easily.

The 3/8"length Kold Kutters are a bit too short IMHO and the 1/2" #10 are bigger than they need to be and will strip out any holes so a smaller size or brand won't fit if you ever want to try something else.

Keep in mind what I said about avoiding stepping on your fly line at all cost. New Kold Cutter screws will cut your fly line IN HALF they are that sharp!
 
Bamboozle wrote:

I use 1/2" #8.
Click to expand...

Samesies. They fit my Orvis boots well.

The 1/2" screws were too long in my Cabelas boots in the toe area because they had very thin soles though. If you screwed them in the whole way, theyd poke into the insole. Measure the soles in the thinnest spots just to be sure.

Under 22$ shipped. I just ordered another batch because Im almost out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kold-Kutter-Track-Tire-Traction-Ice-Screws-1-2-8-250-Pack-KK012-8-250/331690418404?_trksid=p5713.c100043.m2062&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140502134130%26meid%3Db8f0dba6ee2244c390c9408907df9941%26pid%3D100043%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D331690418404
 
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