Choosing a fly rod

[afishinado]

Fly rods for beginner and intermediate anglers

As a fly fishing writer, as well as a fly fishing and casting instructor, one simple question seems to keep popping again and again. “I want to buy one rod for my fly fishing. What’s the best overall trout rod?” The standard response from long-time fly fishing industry members is actually pretty...

www.hatchmag.com

 

[Silent Ocelot]

I think the most important aspect of choosing a fly rod is intended application. There's always the right tool for the job. As a 23 fly rod owner, and I use probably less than half of what I own because I have found that some rods just aren't favorable at all or another rod just does what they do better, there is definitely an advantage to using a rod that is designed for a specific application. Not saying people have to do what I do, just something I've found.

A "jack of all trades" rod could fish well in a variety of conditions but would not excel in one particular style of fishing or scenario.

 

[Bamboozle]

There was a time in my life I owned three fly rods. I didn't need a PhD to figure out which rods to buy, never felt under or over gunned and fished everywhere for everything but in the salt.

A little over a decade later I sold the three rods and bought four rods (all used BTW). I didn't need a PhD to figure out which rods to buy, never felt under or over gunned and fished everywhere for everything but in the salt.

Just under two decades ago I lost my mind and bought so many rods I lost count. I still didn't need a PhD to figure out what rod to buy but I never felt under or over gunned because I have every eventuality covered including the salt.

I just looked at a catalog today where someone is suggesting to me in the descriptions that I should consider the top offerings at a cat's whisker under a grand (they all be over $1K next season) and maybe I should consider a $600 reel to go along with it...

I get that the article is talking about "beginning or intermediate choices," but it made me glad I got what I got (which was all top shelf in its day) when I got it, didn't listen to any experts, read any "shootouts" or pay those crazy prices.

...However, I still could get by with nothing but those first three rods.

Bottom line, don't listen to the hype and you'll be fine...

 

[krayfish2]

#1 - figure out which action works best for your casting style and ability level

#2 - select length and weight based on what you will be using it for.

#3 - fish

But what if the new model is 1/64th of an ounce lighter, it's swing weight is 2 points less than a sky g and it's even more intuitive? A sucker is born every minute and the marketing is directed at you.

Another golf analogy.....
You wouldn't buy a 50" long drive club to play pitch and putt. Also, the clubs Tiger uses are unhittable for 99.99999% of the public. A modern $100 - $150 rod is as good or better than most $500 rods from the early 2000's.

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

This tread got me wondering about advantages/disadvantages for 2-piece vs. 3 (or more)-piece rods. Since my mentor prefers 2-piece rods, that's the only kind I've ever used. I understand the packability advantage of 3-4 piece rods, but I don't travel very far to fish, so a longer rod tube hasn't been a problem. Is there a durability or castability advantage for either one?
On another note, does anyone sell an affordable ("soft-lined") rod tube with dividers between the rod pieces? I'm trying to determine if I can improve on my capped PVC tubes and rod socks.
Thanks.

 

[Bamboozle]

This tread got me wondering about advantages/disadvantages for 2-piece vs. 3 (or more)-piece rods. Since my mentor prefers 2-piece rods, that's the only kind I've ever used. I understand the packability advantage of 3-4 piece rods, but I don't travel very far to fish, so a longer rod tube hasn't been a problem. Is there a durability or castability advantage for either one?
On another note, does anyone sell an affordable ("soft-lined") rod tube with dividers between the rod pieces? I'm trying to determine if I can improve on my capped PVC tubes and rod socks.
Thanks.

There are a few designers, the late Tom Morgan was one of them who felt a two piece rod afforded the closest action to what he hoped to achieve before he cut the blank.

There are lots of folks who claim there is no difference between the actions of IDENTICAL rods in two, three or four pieces but I venture to guess there are NOT a lot of the IDENTICAL rods available in different configurations to compare so I really don't know if the assumptions are valid.

Knowing that many famous rod designers used inserts or thicker or thinner walls to achieve a certain action, logic should tell you there is no way adding ferrules doesn't change the action of a rod. If nothing else it adds weight or stiffness.

In the few examples I have seen of the identical rod blank being cut into a different number of sections, most folks say there IS a difference. Mark Steffen, another well known rod designer was one of those folks.

That being said, whether a casual angler can tell the difference between a 2 piece or 4 piece rod that is supposed to be the identical rod is open to debate...

I would say the ONLY disadvantage to more pieces besides portability is more things to fail and more time to set-up and break down.

Can't help you with the rod tube question...

 

[JerryC]

I own a limited number of fly. Eight at last count. I build my own. Mine are built on slow to moderate action Loomis or Lamiglass blanks. They're getting a little long in the tooth. I built them between 15 and 20 years ago. When I started fly fishing thirty-some years ago. A 5 wgt was considered a good trout rod. That's what I built. I use them for trout and panfish. I have two 5 weights. My 6 weights are my go to rods.
I have used them for trout, but they're mainly used for warm water, including bass and light salt water.. I have three. The 8 weights I use for tossing larger bass and pike flies and for salt water. I have three.
As far as the number of pieces. Two of mine are 4 piece. One of the 5 weights I built. I don't remember the last time I broke it down into 4 pieces. The other is 4 piece 8 weight I brought from Cabela's because I didn't have time to build one before a business trip and needed a rod I could fit into my luggage. I've since rebuilt it to my specifications. It came with a cloth sack with four pockets and a tube. I can break the 8 weight down, and could use it for my four piece 5 wgt if I could get it into 4 pieces. Over the years I've been able to buy rod sacks/socks with two pockets and hard tubes to put my rods in if needed.
I find it amusing to see people asking what rod should I buy for nymphing, dry fly fishing or throwing poppers and streamers. I guess I prefer all purpose rods. Why complicate a sport I enjoy.

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

(Thanks Bam and Jerry)
I don't have many rods, but plan on building at least one (more) - for which I have a two-piece blank. I'm finding many more 3+piece rods available than 2. I'll also stick with PVC and rod socks.

 

[JerryC]

(Thanks Bam and Jerry)
I don't have many rods, but plan on building at least one (more) - for which I have a two-piece blank. I'm finding many more 3+piece rods available than 2. I'll also stick with PVC and rod socks.

I've built a couple using PVC pipe I picked up at Lowes. One will hold two of my fly rods. The other one, I use once a year for my Canadian trip and that one will hold 8 rods. Four spinning and four fly rods.

 

[Silent Ocelot]

There would inherently be less structure rigidity in a 4 piece rod vs. a 2 piece due to less pieces. I have a Winston LT 5pc that is noticeably heavier than a rod of similar wt and length. The more ferrules the more weight because of added material. I however don't mind the 4 piece for more compact travel, which is why I suspect 4 piece rods were invented.

 

[JimNovo]

I’d

I've built a couple using PVC pipe I picked up at Lowes. One will hold two of my fly rods. The other one, I use once a year for my Canadian trip and that one will hold 8 rods. Four spinning and four fly rods.

I’d love to see a pic of your 8 rod holder.

 

[troutbert]

I think you could fish just about any trout stream in PA with an 8 1/2 ft 5 wt Sage RPL+ rod.

I wish I hadn't lost mine.

 

[Tigereye]

I think you could fish just about any trout stream in PA with an 8 1/2 ft 5 wt Sage RPL+ rod.

I wish I hadn't lost mine.

Ive fished plenty of waters in the 9 ft flavor of that very rod. Dries, wets, nymphs, bait and occasional streamer ( i hate streamer fishing). The rod has accounted for SMB, LMB to ~5 lb, large pike, freshwater drum, carp and shad in addition to trout and smaller species.

Yeah an 8 1/2' or 9' 5 weight are the 270 and 30-06 of the fly fishing world.

 

[rrt]

Back to the original premise: only one rod for trout. I'd have to go with either a 7 1/2' or 8' 5-wt. I'd go with the shorter rod if I were mainly going to fish small to mid-size creeks. I'd go with the longer one if I were going to fish some larger streams, too.

 

[dc410]

Acquire a rod and fish it. You’ll
Figure out how to make it work.