Caddis Color

YorkFlyGuy

YorkFlyGuy

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
98
If the fish are really only seeing a profile of a fly because of the lighter backdrop of the sky at the top of the water why does it matter so much if your chucking a tan, green or black caddis? Shouldn't it only really matter about size and presentation really?
 
Of the three characteriztics; profile, size and color. Color is least important. Especially on bumpy water. The less time the fish has to think about it, the less each matters. That said, the fish can make incredibly quick decisions to refuse based on a detail shortfall.

Sometimes it doesn't matter at all which dry you have on. In slower placid pools, it can make all the difference from color to subtle changes to accurately match abdomen/thorax color changes.

So yes it matters on flat water but not so much on faster bumpy water.

Take yesterday for instance. The fish I caught only hit my sparcly tied tan caddis when jumping it back upstream like the naturals. Dead drifts only got refusals or quick looks. After leaving the run and returning an hour later with 20x more caddis over the water I put a bushier and smaller dark caddis on and couldnt get a look...changed again to a medium brown and still no go. But I think the fish were just turned off at that point even tho caddis numbers were incredible over the water.

So even tho color is least important sometimes it can be important enough to make the difference.
 
Get a copy of In the Ring of the Rise. It might change your current beliefs on dry fly design.
 
90% of the time a tan caddis works IMO. The apple green caddis is pretty prominent on the Tully so I've seen some color preference there.

Mo - please post the recipe for your sparcy toed tan caddis. Lol
 
Makes sense Mo. Thanks. Most elk hair Im using for quick water, so I suppose I am in that "it doesn't matter much" area.

SteveG- Care to share the insight you took from the read or is it only for those willing to put out for the book?
 
With highly molested trouts (my preference), especially on smooth water, my answer is 'all of the above matters'. Here in this part of the state, trouts after the first week are way pickier than those in the Rockies. To concentrate only on the most important factors and overlook the minor ones would be like using a dirty, unwashed glass for wine (even inexpensive ones) - or even water, for that matter. Or listening to a favorite song that's 99.6% fine, but has a scratch in the vinyl (for those oldtimers among you who know what that is).

Regarding the silhouette/profile, I additionally pay attention to the stance of the imitation. The way a CDC/elk (I use deer hair for small ones) sits is much different than the stance of a Trude or Wright Caddis. And an EHC is significantly different than a Colorado King.

Further, many hackled flies dance differently in bumpy water, depending on configuration. Small Dun Variants, with their oversize front hackle, bounce nicely compared to conventional Catskill ties, or for that matter, hackle-free jobbies like Comparaduns. So to stir in a little more complexity to this thick stew of fly tying is the factor of action. And if you are party to a little human-induced motion, rather than trying for the infamous drag-free presentation (even sans microdrag), the design of the fly and its weight and buoyancy, there are plenty of more variations to tie. The Wright 'Sudden Inch' (which actually should be more the Sudden Centimeter, or even Sudden Millimeter) works much better with his eponymous Caddis than with a dubbed flat wing.

Adding shucks and tails or different types changes the surface tension imprint, which has a huge impact at times with glassy water.

Further on the configuration parameter is what portion of the fly is above water vs. submerged. The half-sunken look between the butt-down Klinkhammer is much different than the vertical, Chironomid pupa-like Quigley Cripple.

Related to the color issue is the material response to wetness and floatant. Even at the surface, the hydrophobic nature of fluorocarbons and trilobal enables those tiny microbubbles, which reflect and refract light. Other light effects that are not strictly color but very visual can be obtained from metallics and the plasma treated materials such as certain flavors of Flashabout.

Also the use of monochromatic materials is different than multicolored heathered dubbings. The former is absolutely essential for male Trico spinners, while most other buggies benefit from the latter. The human eye at a couple of feet isn't very discriminating (Seurat's School of Pointillism, anyone?) whereas a trouty eyeball ar an inch or two must discern a bunch of pixels. It gets really interesting when I crossblend different fiber types and gauges.

One common mistake folks make with dry caddis is that the ones flying look a size or several larger in the air compared to in your hand or on the water. And for most of the small ones (ie not the October Caddis(ses) in the PacNW, the body is surprisingly small and often skinny.

A profile/color issue which emerges with the caddis wings is that the trouts are looking up through them. This is significantly different than you looking down at the same wings in your hand. Even the fanatics about color being unimportant should concede that the overall lightness or darkness of the imitation has some bearing on the matter.

For those with neither the time nor inclination to obsess over details like these, stick with wild brookies in small criks or Rocky Mountain trouts (who only have a few months to eat each year and they know it, so they will nip at most anything).
 
Yesterday while fishing a flat and very pressured piece of water; I took a couple trout right away on a CDC Tan caddis. They slowed down a bit so I started experimenting. A gray parachute was actually working fairly well, but had to cut it off when a brown took it deep and I realized my hemo was still at the tying bench. Tied on a gray zylon wing caddis and took one on the first cast. Then another on the next cast. Though that didn't last it was a light bulb moment. Went back up and landed a few more on that pattern; fish that had already seen a few of my flies. So even though there were very few gray bugs in the air, the trout seemed to prefer that color. To Les's point there are a lot of variables that effect your presentation and sometimes even a small change is all it takes to go from zero to hero. Also, as Maurice said color seems to matter most when fishing really clear or flat water.
 
For me, it depends on the water. If it is fast, heavy riffles then I don't believe color matters as much as size, profile, and presentation. But if I am fishing a slow area, then size, profile, color, and presentation are all critical. Just my .02
 
YorkFlyGuy, sorry for the delayed response, works been hectic. But how you describe the "backdrop", almost sounds like a fish is looking directly above its head. They see the fly well before that.

As far as color goes, my personal belief is that color matters more when the fly is in the film, rather than floating higher. The reason being that a true " dun" floating on the water, due to refraction, leaves a mirror like imprint (like half of a bubble) which is visible from below. The general belief is that Catskill style dries imitate duns. I think they kind of do, but I the way they actually settle in the film would be more akin to an emerging fly stuck in the film. I think that's why they still work on very calm water.

Now, take a truly bouyant fly, like a heavily spun cdc hackled fly. It floats really high on the surface, like an actual dun, and would therefore create that bubble imprint. I think that's why so many people get trout that try to eat their indicators.

My belief, and approach to risers anymore, is that it's usually taking an "emerger". Too often I see a natural dun floating high and go right over a trout that's steadily feeding. Trying to intercept a bug that could fly off at any moment would be inefficient. Try tossing a soft hackle, or cdc/snowshoe winged pattern at it and see what happens.

Fwiw, I think it's a worthwhile book to read. I have yet to read Lafontaine's book about dries. I'm told he has some theories of his own as well.
 
YorkFlyGuy wrote:
If the fish are really only seeing a profile of a fly because of the lighter backdrop of the sky at the top of the water why does it matter so much if your chucking a tan, green or black caddis? Shouldn't it only really matter about size and presentation really?

Having the right color is like chicken soup—it can't hurt.

But if you're on the stream and olive caddis are hatching and all you have is a tan imitation, definitely give it a try.

I think trout are rarely so fussy that they'd refuse a tan caddis when olive caddis are on. But I wouldn't feel all that confident throwing a black caddis in that situation.

 
+1

The largest trout I landed was back in the mid-80s. I was a fly fishing newbie (figures). It was raining hard and there was an awesome dark Grannom hatch in Hancock. I had no idea what they were. I had some #14 tan EHC so I tied one on and caught a brown that was every bit of 24"+ and 20"+ girth.

Since then, I've landed some that push 22", but nothing like that beast!

All it takes is for the fish to make one mistake.
 
The color thing is as old as fly fishing. I'm in the majority with it is of lesser importance but can't hurt. However,.......

Back before the match the hatch theory took over one theory was color theory. When I got started back in the early 60's some of the old timers worked on color theory and those old timers with their wet flies caught their share of the fish. There are also believers in enhanced colors - using brighter colors than the naturals, some going as far as using lite bright bodies. They catch a lot of fish.

One late spring I only used tan sparkle duns and parachute light Cahills and caught as many fish as usual. Of course I went back to a full box of flies.

My general impression is that fish are mostly opportunistic and take most things that look reasonable. For "super hatches" that go on for a long time with plenty of bugs, like sulphurs and olives, sometimes you have to be a little more sensitive to color.

And finally, trout can see down into the UV spectrum, we cannot. Therefore, matching colors when one sees colors differently than a trout can be a problem.

 
Back
Top