Anybody making a decent 10' 8wt?

Walk before you run, and it seems that learning to do a two-handed overcast (which I guess is technically an undercast) is the first step towards being able to use the rod properly. In my current, ignorant, state the benefit of a switch is being able to use all available methods to pick the best one for the scenario.

I currently don't have a line fitting the requirement, but the grain window was a big help, JC. Based on that, it looked like I could properly use something as heavy as the 10wt line I do have, so I loaded it up and did some practice last night. The rod certainly loads, and shoots, much easier and doesn't require nearly as much effort to get going, but I'm sure that's a function of length and the signficant overloading of it while overheading. By the numbers you posted, an 10wt is 280 grains. On the downside, I found myself dealing with some pretty brutal tailing loops and did manage to take a pratice fly to the center of my back at one point but I imagine using a more fitting line, and practice, should help that out.

Originally, I was using a 6WT, which is I knew was light, but is signficantly so. I had to really work the length of the rod, and the heavy reel, single-handed to get it going. It was an exercise in fail, and in hindsight, epic switch fail.
 
gfen - yes in deed a 10 wt is overlining, probably a standard 7-8 wt line or a 6wt outbound would be closer.
Remember that that rod is a moderate action and mid flex in design and is in need of a smooth exelleration to the stop inorder to avoid tailling loops.

Ramcatt - FWIW
I often use switch rods and even use full two handers for spey cast and for overhead cast just by changing the heads. I actually prefer beable to use two hand for overhead cast as IMHO it is easier on my shoulders two use two hands then double haul a 8 wt all day. But to each his own.

As for speycast not being compared to roll cast, you will have to take that up with Way Yin and Simon Gawesworth on that one that where I first learn to spey cast.

The reason I compare roll cast to speycast as "excelerated roll cast" is much the same principles apply.

Roll cast have "dead" line laying on the water that is dragged behind the rod tip and then the unload rod is forced to load and throw that dead line out in the form of a forward cast.

A spey takes that principle and use a under the rod tip backcast to get the line behind the rod tip. Then while the line is in the air behind the rod tip and as the leader kisses the water the forward cast is begun with the rod still loaded and the line still live.

This live line or d-loop is he critical difference between roll cast and spey cast. Also because the line is up in a d-loop and not laying on the water it makes it easier to change direction then with a regular roll cast.
Check out the DVD Spey to Z for a demonstration and better explaination.

jcspey
 
i have learned from my time on rivers with a 2hander and switch in my hands in CA, OR, WA, NY, MI, BC and on PA/OH/WV/MD/TN warmwater and trout rivers, rather than DVDS... that spey casting is not roll casting

while any of the 3 predominate styles of spey casting can pull some resembling tech to roll casting and even overheard... they are unique

you'd have a stronger ground to stand on when comparing the 3 to each other rather that grouping them all into one and trying to draw similarities to roll casting

the only similarity i see is that the creation of the D-loop takes place below the rod tip... but if that is your standard for comparison (creation of a loop below the rod tip), you should consider overhead underhand casting (not to be confused with underhand and scandi style spey casts)
 
Sandfly sells a custom switch rod for 275.00. I ordered one in 8wt. for steelhead this year.
 
Hi, I built a 10 ft. 2pc. 8wt. that I fish on the Susquehanna river. The blank, made by PacBay, is very resonably priced and I'm quite happy with the rods performance. It has an extension butt that is easily threaded into the reelseat, very handy. HTH Dave
 
The Switch rod is a great idea, but in actuality its a two handed rod.

Yes. It is possible to use one hand but your shoulder will be asking for surgery if you use it for a few hours one handed.

I would buy a blank and put it together yourself. You can buy a better quality material and you don't need much to put it together.

In the end its your rod, your preference but if you want one to be a rod that you've poured your heart and soul into, try building your own. It's an enjoyable experience and you can find rod building supplies at any fly shop, and if they don't have it they can get it. Just a thought.
 
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