Whiting Hackle

S

SteveG

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Aug 2, 2014
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I bought a few 1/2 and 1/4 midge saddles, and while they're great for sz16-20, they drop off after that. One of the issues I'm finding is that on most of the feathers that have barbs that would be sized for a 22-24, the barbs are sharply curved back to the dull side (like on a standard non-genetic hackle), which then introduces twist as you're winding the hackle. I've already tried pulling off a few barbs on only one side near the tie in point, as I've found this can sometimes help with twist.

So, for you folks with Whiting, or other high grade necks, how small are your necks able to tie down to, and are the small feathers still of good quality e.g. no twist, curved barbs, etc?
 
SteveG wrote:
I bought a few 1/2 and 1/4 midge saddles, and while they're great for sz16-20, they drop off after that. One of the issues I'm finding is that on most of the feathers that have barbs that would be sized for a 22-24, the barbs are sharply curved back to the dull side (like on a standard non-genetic hackle), which then introduces twist as you're winding the hackle. I've already tried pulling off a few barbs on only one side near the tie in point, as I've found this can sometimes help with twist.

So, for you folks with Whiting, or other high grade necks, how small are your necks able to tie down to, and are the small feathers still of good quality e.g. no twist, curved barbs, etc?


I've not had those issues ^ with Whiting necks, but I always hand-pick any of my dry fly necks or saddles in person to avoid problems/flaws such as you describe above.

If you are able, I recommend you stop out at the Somerset or even Lancaster fly fishing show. There are many suppliers of all types of feathers there. You can hand pick your hackle from dozens if not hundreds of necks or saddles and get your moneys worth.

Good luck
 
Get a higher graded one, usually has a better array of sizes and the quality doesn't hurt.
 
I have 5 or 6 different Whiting capes and all of them are Bronze grade. I have not had the issues you are having.
 
These are bronze and silver midge saddles. I hand picked, but didn't realize the issue on the really small barbed hackles. I won't be able to make Somerset this year. But I have been in touch with a retailer whom will pick out what I'm looking for. I've omitted the name because I'm not sure if its against forum rules.
 
I did find a lower grade Whiting cape I bought last summer, and the smaller size hackles are great looking. Maybe some of the issue is due to the thicker stem of the saddle hackles.
 
barestem_zpsbdc96453.jpg


i always start with a bare stem. helps ME with any twisting and keeps the shiny side toward the eye
 
That's how I tie in as well. I think the extreme backward curve on the barbs is also a defect in the stem, which is thicker than that of a neck hackle. Luckily it's only a few hackles.
 
Steve G:

Pretty sure I have heard the term "cupping" to describe your hackle issue. A few of the midge saddles I have experience similar limitations.

They seem to wrap parachute hackles fine though.
 
Tiogadog, that describes it perfectly. Thank you for the parachute recommendation, I wasn't even thinking that.
 
I thought you are supposed to tie the dull side toward the eye, so that when you wrap it the hackle points then balance if the fly on the hackle and tails?

You could also try and iron on low and place the cape between or under a towel.
 
i guess i'm just different. :)

shiny side forward works for me and nothing wrong in doing so

my flies still catch fish :)
 
I actually don't mind if mine twist on Catskills style dries. I like hackle/legs in all directions.

Now parachutes I prefer the dull side down, but every once in a while the hackle twist and goes shiny side down....fish don't seemed to mind.
 
For parachutes, I find dull side up way easier to tie off..different strokes
 
I also prefer dull up on parachutes, which I've started tying more of lately. Barring my few cupped feathers haha, with the level of today's genetic hackle I don't think the older dull/shiny theory really applies, especially since the weight of the hook bend keeps the rear planted. But that's just my personal opinion.

I've been experimenting with some different ideas for dry fly design, and cannot wait to test them out. Cabin fever is killing me.
 
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